Jeep Strokers

I have about 4000 miles on the engine since the last build and it is still going strong. Knock on wood. Its not a lot of mileage because it was in storage for most of the winter for various reasons and I was driving the ZJ in that time. One of the reasons was I was working with ATI for a harmonic balancer. I wasn't convinced that the stock balancers do that good of a job on the stroker engine. Its definitely a quality piece. I can also add an additional pulley to the front later if needed.



I also picked some 17" Dodge rims for when I need new tires. They make my brakes look small though.
Old hotness:

New hotness:



I'm planning on taking a few short highway drives soon to put some real mileage on it.

How much does ATI want for that balancer? Will it work on stock 4.0L? Supercharged 4.0L?

It should work for any 4.0l, stroker or supercharged.

What is the ATI part number for that dampner for the 4.0? How much is the ATI dampner? I want one.

You will have to ask ATI about their current pricing. Reference drawing number SK008J1.

Called ATI. that #SK008J1 6 rib 87-95 they made it like 8 years ago, they had sk008F1 6 rib about 6.7" diameter more recent for ? 4 cylinder Jeep(is that the same balancer for the 4.0?) and it is a custom piece $650-$700 and 90+days to get made, they have to get custom builds between production runs, and at least 90 days or longer. Does any of this make sense? Is your dampner custom made?

The drawing I have is the SK008J1. Dated 12/06/11. The original drawing which was modified was SK008, maybe they are looking at that which had a toothed pulley in the drawing. Try talking to them about order # 226922.

SilverXJ wrote:I'm working on replacing the coil rail with a remote mount coil pack.

-Chris

Chris - do you have a thread started on this? I have a plan on paper for a similar task. I have the parts pretty much decided on, just need to get the pin-outs on the stock coil rail harness to see what the adapter harness is going to look like. A mounting bracket for the coil packs shouldn't be too difficult.

Yes, right here: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... =26&t=2756

The bracket doesn't need to be hard.. mine was a bit more intricate than necessary just because i wanted it stable, off the engine and look stock.. plus it also supports other things.

SilverXJ wrote:Yes, right here: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... =26&t=2756

The bracket doesn't need to be hard.. mine was a bit more intricate than necessary just because i wanted it stable, off the engine and look stock.. plus it also supports other things.

Thank you sir. I posted a question in that thread. Sorry to hijack this one.

Jim

Bit of an update.

I learned that there was an after market thrust plate style cam available so I looked into getting one custom ground for my stroker. The stock grind is sold by Melling, but Melling doesn't grind their own cams so I figured that the blank has to be available. I was a bit concerned that that solid pin would eventually wear the cover out and teh cam would start walking, which would eventually eat the bearings and put me back at square one. Besides the advantage of the thrust plate style it also has the wide lobes. I talked to Crane, Comp, Isky and Jones Cams. Crane, Comp and Isky said they couldn't get the blank and wouldn't even bother checking for me. Its a shame because i really liked that Isky grind I had despite their horrible service. Jones Cams came highly recommended by the people on speedtalk.com (besides Naxja and here I spend a great deal of time reading there). After a few calls back and forth with his blank supplier he was able to locate a cam blank. I went something with a bit less over lap than the Hesco because I wasn't happy with the idle quality. It was a bit rough and sounded like it has a lean miss in the exhaust at idle. I liked the higher RPM performance of the cam though. I know Hesco puts these in the majority of the strokes they produce so I don't know quite why it wouldn't play well with my combo. Maybe because my stroker is "special", and when I say special I mean as in the special olympics special. I went with a 260*/204* duration, .472" lift on the intake and 264*/208* duration with .478" on the exhaust. LCA 113*, 109* intake center line.

When I removed the Hesco cam the cam bearings looked fine with no wear. I used a stock style silent link timing set. Initially the cam end play was at .007", but I wanted it tighter. After a bunch of figure 8s on sand paper with the gear I landed on .004", which is what I wanted. The only hitch with the install was that when I went to degree it the cam was 5* retarded. I fixed this by using a 4* crank woodruff key for a SBC (Mr. Gasket 988G). It needed some massaging to get it to fit 100%. Jones Cam's said that in order to grind advance into it he would need to reduce the base circle by .015" for every degree. That didn't sound like a good idea. So, it appears that the blank doe shave some draw backs. As is the cam 1* retarded, which I would doubt I will notice.

I ran the break in without issue and ran it 300 miles on the Joe Gibbs oil as recommended. I checked my cam bearings once again today and they are still fine! Timing set looks good, cam end play is where i set is as well is crank end play.

Wide lobes, and later cam snout.


I am learning to weld so I made a cam removal and installation tool. One end is threaded for the old style cam, one for the new style cam. I should have made it longer for in vehicle install. Afterwards I had a co worker powder coat it for me then threw a JeepStrokers decal on it.


Cam installed and thrust plate bolted on. Note the oil holes to lube the cam gear.


.004" cam end play:


I also picked up an ARP bolt for the harmonic balancer. It has both a hex style head and a spot for a 1/2" ratchet. It has the same threads as the stock bolt, but it was a little long so I cut it down on the lathe. Turning the crank over is so much nicer now as I don't have to worry about the socket falling off the bolt. Plus it compliments the ATI balancer well.


The engine has ~5000 miles now since the last cam bearing failure.

Neat parts, great pictures, I want that ATI balancer.
Wasn't there a company that was going to be making a hydraulic roller cam? Is that any closer to a reality?

CobraMarty wrote:Neat parts, great pictures, I want that ATI balancer.
Wasn't there a company that was going to be making a hydraulic roller cam? Is that any closer to a reality?

505 makes a roller cam, but it is from a cast blank and has a limited life(as far as the 4.0L is concerned). Plus from what I have seen and heard of/from them I wouldn't want to deal with them. Crane is planning a billet roller cam but not until next year. Jones Cams can make a billet cam, but "To make a one off custom steel billet for this engine, you'd be looking at around $1,100." No lifters, pushrods or springs included.

You have the part number for the ATI hub. All the hard work has been done by myself. All you need to do is call up ATI and order one if you want it. Its an exceptional piece and makes the stock balancers look like crap. And its rebuildable.

The drawing I have is the SK008J1. Dated 12/06/11. The original drawing which was modified was SK008, maybe they are looking at that which had a toothed pulley in the drawing. Try talking to them about order # 226922.

Which number? I called them and gave them all these numbers to no avail. Was it built in this last year?

Crane billet roller- next year. It always seems like it's next year.

CobraMarty wrote: Was it built in this last year?

It was built around January.

Crane billet roller- next year. It always seems like it's next year.

Lol... thats when they said they would start working on it... I doubt it will be ready then.