Jeep Strokers

It happens

akadeutsch wrote:Well The mech shop wanted 400 bucks to assemble the short block in order for them to measure deck height.

$400 is crack pipe price for a mock up to see what the deck clearance is. I could possibly see $400 for complete final assembly with every single clearance measured, but not for mock up for deck clearance.

Take it apart and 0 deck clearance it. If you don't do it now you will always be wondering "what if".

I'm sorry but I think 400 bucks is a lot just to put together my bottom end. It took me less than an hour to install all 6 of my pistons and check deck clearance. Why should I pay them 400 bucks to do what I can do in less than an hour? Given I can take an accurate measurement? I will take the measurements again tomorrow and see what I see

For complete assembly of the bottom, $400 is a bit high. But, not completely ridiculous. Correct assembly isn't just slapping it together. That involves measuring every clearance with mics, dial indicators, and bore gauges (not using plastigauge), correct torque, correct lube on the bolts, inspecting every part, correcting any problems, degreeing the cam in, blue printing the oil pump, installing the oil pickup, etc. Keep in mind that many places may not warranty it completely is they don't do the assembly.

This is my total build so I want to do it myself. I'll measure again and if I need more cut off that's what I'll do

What I meant to say was that this is my first dive into the bottom end of an engine.....My first build, so I want to do it myself. I re_measured the clearance of ever piston to the deck. The sweep was .007 to. 011. Average deck clearance sitting at .0093333. Good enough for what I'm building. And considering rod stretch and bearing clearances I'm pretty comfortable with it.

And I`d bet the difference in piston to deck is primarily the rod length variance.

Very similar to my final measurements, I attributed it to rod length as well

My cam is in but I dont think I can afford to degree it. I just can't spend another 150 bucks on a degree kit right now. I'll ask my mech shop how much to do it, but unless its under 50 bucks I am just going to pray its what it is supposed to be. I put one hardened washer under the girdle and I'll be needing another one. The rod caps are interfering with it right now and it wont spin. I'll have to get more washers on Wednesday morning. Then I'll install the oil pump and seal up the bottom end.

For degreeing the cam I printed out a degree wheel and used a dial indicator and magnetic base from harbor freight which was easily less than $50. I would do it for peace of mind if nothing else!

I only had to use 1 hardened washer under the bearing brace but my shop ground down the pads a fair bit to lighten up the rods I think.

Cheers

Chris

Also make sure to check the pushrod length/lifter preload. I needed 0.130" shorter pushrods for the right length. Looks like most people need shorter ones.

Cheers

Chris

Chris
I went ahead and bought an adjustable Push Rod to check length. I do still need to buy push rods, or at least I think that I will. After new valve seats, and a valve job and then cutting .006 from the head and another .025 from the block I am nearly certain that I will be getting new ones. I should have the head on this week. I'll need to make a trip to the pull and pay for some bolts and little things that I can not find. Like my cam retention plate.

Do i need to use the Camshaft retention plate that came standard In my 2000 WJ? I went ahead and ordered the comp 68 235 4 cam, lifter, timing set and I'm trying to install the gears on the cam now but I'm seeing something that doesn't make sense. They're is no provision for the retention plate with this grind. The cam fits directly into the timing gear, with no Room for the plate. Do I need to get a new cam?

The majority of aftermarket cams use the older style cam blank that will not fit the cam retention plate. The timing gear also needs to be matched to the cam being used. For the Comp cam, leave the plate off, and use a drilled cam bolt and pin to keep the fore-aft cam movement under control. You can get the cam bolt from a dealer, and the pin can be gotten from a hardware store, ask for a steel dowel. Most of us don't like the original spring and pin arrangement as it still allows the cam to move around. A better solution is to just use a pin/dowel, without spring, and cut the pin to give around 0.005"- 0.0010" cam end play.
Which cam gear/timing set do you have?

akadeutsch wrote:They're is no provision for the retention plate with this grind. The cam fits directly into the timing gear, with no Room for the plate. Do I need to get a new cam?

Try searching once in a while. This is covered many many times on here.