I've lost my mind.. or an MP90 on a 4.6L

[SilverXJ]

Hell if I know. I just marked where I need to modify them.

[CobraMarty]

Hell if I know. I just marked where I need to modify them.

You measured the length of runners 3+4, What is the measured lengths of 1+6 and 2+5? Just asking.

[SilverXJ]

I purchased a Jeep 4.7L throttle body to see if it would work for my SC. If it fit I would have had it bored to 70mm. Trying to avoid paying that much for a 70mm throttle body.

Well, it won't work. The IAC and TPS hang too low when mounted in this way. Oh well. Might be looking at other throttle bodies. At least the 4.7L TB was cheap.



I got around to drilling and tapping the SC snout shaft in case i need to change the pulley system. I was debating just leaving it, but "just in case" got to me.

Just for laughs this is what a stock throttle body looks like on a 70mm hole:

[Desertjr]

4.3l vortec tb? 10 bones with sensors at my junkyard. If needed ill pull it and ship one on your dime. I did this on my stock 4.0 and I think its amazing. I copied the write up after finding it. Some say its too snappy...I feel its just right, I freaking love it!

http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f64/t ... 70mm-6236/

[SilverXJ]

Grinding has pretty much ground to a halt. Pun intended. First the 6" burr I was using wasn't cutting well, was old, dull, and a double cut. Then my 90* grinder broke. The 90* part stripped the threads that mounted it to the body. It was a cheapy but held up pretty well for 8 years. I got my money out of it. So I replaced the die grinder with ones from Lowes with a built in regulator. That was about a month ago. But I still needed a bit. About a week ago I got a 6" single cut bit. Besides that work and other projects have been consuming my time.

So, I had the grinder and a burr and some free time on Wednesday. I get everything ready and start grinding again. I was getting a whole lot of chatter and it was hard to control. When I could get it steady enough to cut it was cutting like a champ. Then the burr came out of the grinder. Maybe the collet wasn't tight enough. Put the bit back in and try it again. Still chatter. Take a closed look at the setup. The tip of the burr had about 1/8" of run out. Put the burr in a straight grinder.. runs pretty straight. Put the old burr in the new grinder.. run out. Took a closer look at the grinder. It was the majority of the cause or the run out. I took it back to Lowes and get another one figuring that it might have some how been damaged when the bit came out or I just got a bad one. Yesterday I attempt it again, this time I check it before I even start cutting. Same damn thing. Another pos die grinder with run out. The Lowes grinders may work well for surface finishing and smaller burrs, but no way would it work for this.

Last night I ordered an Ingersoll Rand 302B. While it still isn't an industrial quality ($300+ for one of those) I'm hoping it is at least better than the Lowes one.

I do have most of one side roughed in, just need to do some finishing on it.

I've also been thinking about supports. Besides the one at the front for the snout (that will come once I have the SC mounted to the intake manifold) I'm also planning on putting two under the manifold. One for the front and one for the rear which will come up from the engine mount. I'm debating on attaching it to the underside of the plenum, but then I would have to reinforce the underside so the mounts won't break the bottom on a good bump. The other option is to extend the front and rear of the 1/2" plate enough to run the bars from the engine mount to the plate. However, there i may run into the front and back of the plenum with the support bars, or not be able to push them out far enough without hitting something else. I could make a u shaped bar to tie the front and back together and run under the plenum. Then run the support bars to that. I'm just not fond of the idea of putting the bars directly under the plenum. I'll have to draw up some diagrams later to give a better idea.

[vashxj]

Another pos die grinder with run out.

Sounds like you need a to look into a mac one lol, but IR all really good too they are the only impacts I use

[SilverXJ]

For the support. I plan on coming off the Brown Dog mount with a heim link or two and attach it to a steel tube that will be mounted to the bottom of the intake plate. In the pic(quick and dirty) below the bar is in red of course, the plate is the grey. I am thinking I may not even need two links. I am really unsure about bolting to the bottom of the intake manifold, although it would be simple to have a piece welded to the bottom and mount to that. However I am concerned about hitting a good bump and putting that link though the bottom of the manifold.

[vashxj]

ya im not sure on the links, i would use a solid plate around 1/8 thick and go to the side of the block some how. thats just my opinion but ya weld a nut on the bottom for the mount and while your at it tack a couple more for a heat sheild mount. I wouldnt be to worried about hitting a bump as long as its not mounted to the engine the mount should take all the force

[CobraMarty]

Is your motor out of the jeep again? or is that just good photoshop? I would just go straight down from the plate or bar to the motor mount bolt.

[SilverXJ]

LOL.. thats just a crappy photoshop.. I am not even sure if the SC is the correct scale... its just kind of in the right position. I agree that a single mount would suffice. I had originally planned for two because for some reason I though the engine mount was more centered under the intake, so on on each side of the mount.

[SilverXJ]

The reason for the heim link is to make it adjustable. While I can mock it up on an engine outside the vehicle, that measurement won't be exactly the same when on the engine in the vehicle. Also, if anything need to be changed, like the head or block the adjust-ability can account for that.

[vashxj]

i thought thats why you wanted to use that, i have seen some supports on some of the gm engines in the fork trucks with the same manifolds as ours. their support is bolted on the side of the intake like where the mount for the fuel line is on ours, down to the block and the block side of the support is slotted, so you can tighten the intake side first they block side will adjust itself. but our exhaust manifold is alittle more difficult to get around than the gm 3.0

[SilverXJ]

This project hasn't failed. I've just been busy. Life and generally stupid shit has gotten in the way.

1) In the process of grind the manifold I managed to make a hole so I had that welded up. So that is fixed and I still need to get to work to finish the grinding and forming.

2) I purchased some essential parts for a meth injection system. Lightly used Labonte equipment and the most expensive parts. The pump, the controller and two nozzles. I'll still need some hose and fittings.

3) I finally got around to mounting the vacuum, boost and EGT all-in-one gauge. The aftermarket mount offerings didn't thrill me. Either too big, didn't fit or just plain ulgy. So I made my own.

Most of the parts and tools besides the screws I already had so it was labor + $7.

I used a piece of 1.25" square aluminum stock, a piece of .5" aluminum stock and s piece of ABS tube.

My goal was to having something small, attractive and removable for the inspection decal.

I drilled a .5" hole in the 1.25" stock. Drilled and tapped the set screw and then went to work. First I formed the piece to accept the ABS tube. Roughed it in with a die grinder and then sanded it to shape with a piece of sand paper wrapped around a scrap piece of tube. Then I formed the other side to the A trim molding. I formed it to match the contours of the A pllar trim so it didn't distort the trim an kept it at a viewable angle from the driver's position.

After the forming I sanded it with 400 grit paper and sprayed it with Valspar. I won't use the valspar again because it takes too long to dry.


Then the tube. It was cut to 2.25" and I drilled a hole close to the end then counter sunk it to mate to the .5" piece of aluminum. I then sprayed the ABS with the Valspar. A week later tnd that shit was still tacky.



The gauge was a press fit in to the ABS as were the black and blue trim rings that fit over the gauge bezel. Tose were cut on the laser at work from scrap.















Also I did have a chance to test fit the MP90. It won't clear the hood. I'm lacking about .5". Just another lie by Rick Rimmer and JP Magazine as there is no way in hell his "kit" would fit under a stock hood.





So now I have the dilemma of having the engine mounts lower the engine, and re work the exhaust or making a slight power budge in the hood, which I already have vents in. I already need to relocate the hood latch pivot as it is directly over the MP90's pulley, which shouldn't be that hard.

[shawnxj]

you can't have a supercharger in virginia and pass inspection? or you can't have the gauges?

[SilverXJ]

According to inspections I don't live in VA. The inspection sticker from my state goes in front of the gauge, hence the removable gauge.