4.2ish WJ mini stroker

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Knoxes
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Re: 4.2ish WJ mini stroker

Post by Knoxes »

Machine shop costs:

Valve job: 110
Cylinder head surfacing(.005) 60
Clean Motor 125
Clean Head 30
Install cam bearings 35
Install expansion plugs 25
Rebore block (.030) 120
Press pistons 48
Recondition rods 100
Balance crank, fly, HB 200
Deck block (.003) 100
Install rings 25
Misc 20

Total 998

Ouch. Mrs K keeps reminding me that this is a lot cheaper than buying Lil K a used car in a year.
2003 WJ 4.0L (stroker candidate)
2004 WJ 4.7L HO
Knoxes
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Re: 4.2ish WJ mini stroker

Post by Knoxes »

Assembly starts on Saturday. This part is the most intimidating to me. I really don't know much about this process other than the wrenching part. Not sure what lube to use, or where. Slowly starting to figure out when to check clearances, but I'm sure there are some that I'll miss because I didn't know to check them.
2003 WJ 4.0L (stroker candidate)
2004 WJ 4.7L HO
Knoxes
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Re: 4.2ish WJ mini stroker

Post by Knoxes »

This is what I've found:

[qiote]*Brush out oil holes in crankshaft!

*Arrange engine & engine parts in order of assembly

*Install freeze plugs, cam plug, and all galley plugs. (You may want to paint back of block).

*Mount engine block on suitable engine stand and turn up-side down.

*Install camshaft first, being especially careful not to damage cam bearings. Use engine assembly lube on cam bearings, and camshaft lube on camshaft.

*Install main bearings in block & lube with assembly lube. (High pressure lube)

*Lay crankshaft into main bearings for clearance checking purposes.

*Place a piece of plasti-gage lengthwise across main journal then install main caps & bolts and torque to specs.

*Dis-assemble what you just did and check your clearance using the paper the plasti-gage came in, the spaces on the side of package is your clearance.

*Install the rear main seal (if a two piece rear seal is being used, it will have to be installed in block and cap before crankshaft is laid in block) . Be sure and follow instructions in your gasket set for seal installation.

*Clean plasti-gage off crankshaft and place crank back in block (be sure not to forget to install your rear seal). Install main caps and bolts, and torque all caps down to specs. except the thrust bearing cap. You now need to set the thrust on that cap if it is not pinned! To set thrust, just barely snug bolts to that cap, then use a hammer and (on a counter weight) hit the crankshaft to the rear of engine, then to the front of engine last, then torque that cap down to specs. and check end play of crank. Most crankshaft thrusts are between .004-to.010 end play.

*Install timing chain and gears. Now is a good time to degree in camshaft. Click on degree camshaft at left of page.

*Oil wrist pins in pistons heavily, install rod bearings, install rings on pistons. There is a certain sequence and placement of rings not covered here.

*When removing rod caps, a suitable rod vise is required so damaged is not done to connecting rod.

*Turn engine right side up and oil all the cylinders, rod bearings, pistons and rings, and crankshaft journals. Use oil (30 weight) on pistons, rings, and cylinder wall, and engine assembly lube on crankshaft and all bearings.

*Install a suitable ring compressor over piston (be sure rings are correctly placed on pistons), install plastic or rubber boots over rod bolts (so you don't scratch cylinder walls or nick the crankshaft), place the first piston in hole, tap the piston in cylinder using a wood or plastic hammer handle. As you are tapping piston down into the hole, be sure and center the rod bolts over the crank journal or damage will result.

*If you want to (and you should) check rod bearing clearance, there are several ways to do this. If nothing else, you should plasti-gage before oiling crank or bearings. Then clean off plasti-gage and do the steps over again.



*Install rod cap to that con-rod (do not mix up caps from one rod to another) {be sure they are #'d in pairs before dis-assembly}. Bearing tangs usually (but not always) face each other. Do not put cap on backwards or damage will result! Also pistons and rods are directional and can be installed in only one (correct) direction! or damage will result!

*Install rod nuts with proper lube and snug nuts only at this time. Install the rest of piston and rod assemblies in their proper cylinders.

*Torque all rods nuts to torque specs. either by ft.lbs. or the bolt stretch method, after all rod and piston assemblies are installed.

*Turn engine back upside down and install timing cover, oil pump (be sure and prime pump first), oil pump drive rod, pick-up screen (be sure it is new or perfectly clean inside and out, oil pan gasket, timing cover gasket, timing cover, and oil pan (sealing it properly).

*Turn engine back right side up and install cylinder head gasket (s), cylinder head (s), and bolts, (some head bolts require sealant) and torque heads to specs. Install valve train components, set vales, etc. and install intake manifold and bolts. Be sure that deck and all surfaces are clean and free of oil.

*Tape off any areas that you do not want painted, and be sure you put something in spark plug holes, and paint the engine. Use engine enamel.

*Install oil filter adaptor and oil filter, and oil in engine. Use 30 weight oil for engine break-in.

*Prime engine (with suitable tool) with drill motor, while turning engine over by hand with a suitable tool until all rocker arms are oiling. All oil galleys must be full. If you cannot prime engine, then you need to fill all oil galleys with a tank filled with oil mounted to the oil pressure switch hole. At very least, do not crank engine over with spark plugs installed if the engine has not been primed! We use an oil pressure gauge to check oil pressure when priming engine.

*Install valve cover(s). It is usually best to seal gasket to valve cover, not to head so valve cover re-moval is more simple if it ever has to come off.

*If you haven't painted engine yet, clean off any spilled oil on block or parts to be painted, then paint what you want with engine enamel.

[/quote]

http://www.rpmrons.com/Rebuild.html
2003 WJ 4.0L (stroker candidate)
2004 WJ 4.7L HO
Knoxes
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Re: 4.2ish WJ mini stroker

Post by Knoxes »

Image

Image

We had trouble getting the 4th piston in - the bottom ring kept getting hung up on the block. So we quit there for the day. As usual, it's slow going.
2003 WJ 4.0L (stroker candidate)
2004 WJ 4.7L HO
Knoxes
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Re: 4.2ish WJ mini stroker

Post by Knoxes »

Oh, and that stand is a POS. I think it's a Torin. The welds are a mess. The sooner we get it off that thing, the better.
2003 WJ 4.0L (stroker candidate)
2004 WJ 4.7L HO
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Re: 4.2ish WJ mini stroker

Post by dwg86 »

Make sure your oil pump doesn't hit the block...keeping it from sitting flush against the block ( see Silverxj's post on this). Don't forget the pin and spring in the end of the cam.
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Re: 4.2ish WJ mini stroker

Post by Knoxes »

Finally back to ordering parts again today:

Cam: 111.99 (great price on the MC1377)
Lifters: 36.00
Push rods: 24.24
Head gaskets: 39.97
Timing set: 78.89
Timing cover gasket: 8.79
Oil Pan gasket: 15.99
Oil Pump: 72.97

That should get me very close to reassembled.

I need to decide: new set of head bolts or use the old ones?

And a decision on injectors - not sure what to get with my slightly more than stock build, stock TB and exhaust.
2003 WJ 4.0L (stroker candidate)
2004 WJ 4.7L HO
Knoxes
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Re: 4.2ish WJ mini stroker

Post by Knoxes »

Discovered that the main bridle doesn't clear the crank throws. Also discovered that this isn't an uncommon problem. Always the last to know...
2003 WJ 4.0L (stroker candidate)
2004 WJ 4.7L HO
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Re: 4.2ish WJ mini stroker

Post by SilverXJ »

Just space it off with some hardened washers. About 1/8"
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Re: 4.2ish WJ mini stroker

Post by Knoxes »

Yeah, we tried that, but I wanted to check around before committing to it. Also found that the oil pickup and pump are tough to separate. I think I'd feel much better buying a whole unit rather than just the pump. Thankfully, I ordered the pump from Summit rather than RockAuto (who royally suck at returns).
2003 WJ 4.0L (stroker candidate)
2004 WJ 4.7L HO
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Re: 4.2ish WJ mini stroker

Post by SilverXJ »

I would replace the oil pick up with a new one.
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Re: 4.2ish WJ mini stroker

Post by Knoxes »

Yes, doing that as well. I'm a bit paranoid over the oil pump after reading a 41 page thread about cam bearing failure!

Also realized that I re-used the main bolts. Looking for new bolts for the mains and the head that are exact replacements. I'd be satisfied with Mopar, but I can't find those. Really want ARP, but it doesn't look like they are exact replacement.
2003 WJ 4.0L (stroker candidate)
2004 WJ 4.7L HO
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Re: 4.2ish WJ mini stroker

Post by SilverXJ »

Reusing the main bolts is fine. Stock replacements are too expensive.
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Re: 4.2ish WJ mini stroker

Post by Knoxes »

Bought some Mell lube and new head bolts (Fell Pro). Finally got the oil pump and pickup together

http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... =15&t=4126

and bolted on. Oil pan is in place and the motor has been flipped back upright.

Got the cam in..
2003 WJ 4.0L (stroker candidate)
2004 WJ 4.7L HO
Knoxes
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Re: 4.2ish WJ mini stroker

Post by Knoxes »

Ran into a problem. The FSM (both 2002 and 2004) calls for an oil slinger on the crankshaft. I don't have any recollection of that part and can't find it anywhere in my baggies. I'm also finding some posts that it's not in the 2001, but I'm not clear if that means 2001 + or just 2001.

Image
2003 WJ 4.0L (stroker candidate)
2004 WJ 4.7L HO
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