my 4.6

[shawnxj]

so i've been trying to degree my cam and for some reason it's not coming out. maybe i'm doing it wrong. so here's what i did

setup my dial indicator to see when the piston stops moving at tdc and setting my degree wheel to zero.
then i setup my dial indicator on the intake lifter and zero it on the base circle.
next i turn the crank clockwise until i see the lifter move .050 which ends up being -1.5 but unless i'm reading my cam card wrong it should be at 213

here's my card. am i reading it wrong?

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1476

[dwg86]

You need a piston stop. Turn the crank until it hits the stop, then turn it the other way until it hits the stop. Between these 2 marks is top dead center. What lifter are you on? Intake, or exhaust? You are measuring when the lifter opens at .050, not duration. To measure duration you would measure the lifter opening starting from .050 lifter rise to when the lifter was .050 from being closed.
Check out this link for degreeing a cam. The instructions are pretty good.: http://cranecams.com/uploads/instructions/803.pdf

[SilverXJ]

You don't need a piston stop. Your problem is that the piston "stops" at TDC for several degrees. You need to set the dial indicator above the piston in the pin area at what you think it TDC. 0 the indicator.Rotate the crank CW until the indicator reads like .1" or so (doesn't matter could be larger), record degree, rotate CCW until you see the .1" again. Record the degree number. Compare those two measurements and repeat the CW and CCW read and move the pointer until they are equal.

[shawnxj]

ok i did it like silver suggested and it turns out i was only a 1/4 degree off from tdc. i just realised i was trying to use the duration numbers instead of the lift numbers. somedays i'm just straight up retarded

[shawnxj]

ok next question. my card says it's setup for 4 degrees advanced. so does that mean instead of being -1.5 btdc like the card says the cam should be -5.5 btdc?

[shawnxj]

well i finally got it to come out according to the cam card but i ended up having to put the crank sprocket in the +4 slot. that means i'm 4 degrees advanced right? not sure i like that

[SilverXJ]

Usually the cam grind card has the advance already figured in it. I would call Lunati to be sure though.

[gonridnu]

well i finally got it to come out according to the cam card but i ended up having to put the crank sprocket in the +4 slot. that means i'm 4 degrees advanced right? not sure i like that

No. If you degreed the intake centerline of the cam and it is coming up 108 then you have installed the cam straight up. Regardless of if you had to use various mechanical means to get there, for example an offset key in the crank in the -4 degree slot with an offset bushing in the cam, you are still installing the cam at 0* adv/retard relative to the crankshaft. How you get there and by what means of adjustment is unimportant. What is important is that after setting the cam crank relationship via the intake centerline method the cam events happen within a few degrees of what your cam card sez they should.

Once degreed to zero, any changes to cam crank phasing will raise or lower the peak torque a few hundred RPM but will have very little effect on the actual peak HP and torque numbers other than the RPM they occur at.

[dwg86]

Looking at your cam card, it says that if your intake centerline is 108, you are 4 degrees advanced. If your valve timing events match your cam card, then that is how Lunati installs it.

[shawnxj]

yup all the timing events are within a degree of what the card says. the short block is officially finished now i just need to get off my dead ass and finish the head pnp

[shawnxj]

was looking at prices on new water pumps and wow those are cheap.....anyways i noticed they have a regular and an extended duty pump. what's everybody using? is it worth the extra $10 for the extended duty? i noticed some people bought the flowcoolers and still had issues and went back to stock because of the too much flow problem not giving the coolant time to cool

[shawnxj]

well it's almost tax time and it's time for me to finish this p o s. been trying to figure out what fuel delivery i'm going to use. right now i'm leaning towards using the returnless injector rail i got with my 99+ intake and i have a set of ford 24# injectors which should be enough but i'm thinking of getting an inline afpr or i thought i read somewhere of people using corvette fuel filters and they were regulated at 49 psi but can't seem to find that post anywhere. i'm also debating about getting this http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diyp ... p-389.html since my renix wiring harness will plug right in

[shawnxj]

looked up the corvette filter regulator and performance trucks said it was set for 60 psi so that's a no go. are there any other oem filter/regulator setups like the vette that's close to what we'd need? kinda want to shoot for 49# so i can just dial the fuel down in the computer

[shawnxj]

well i finally got my head done

the springs are 110#'s open and 255#'s at .507. lunati said that'll work perfectly for this cam



not sure i'd use this setup again. the machine work ended up being more expensive then i was expecting. had to cut the valve spring guides down as well as use a different seal because stock seals didn't clear the springs so had to cut down the post for the seals

now i gotta measure for the pushrods. i'm hoping i can use stock since the deck was cut .018 and the head was cut .008

[shawnxj]

well it's in



still have abunch of little shit to do. oging to have my machinst measure my pushrod checker for length so i can order some pushrods. still trying to decide what i'm going to do about fuel delivery and i need to either make a bracket or just mount the 4.7 tb to my 99 intake