1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

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YJason
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Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by YJason »

You may want to consider adding a couple idler pulleys. I had trouble when I added A/C to my 4 banger and I didn't have enough belt contact around the pulley. I had about the same amount of contact as you do. I'd put a idler between the A/C and alt and possibly another to increase the contact around the power steering pulley. Otherwise looks like a very nice build, I only bring up the pulley issue because it will be much easier to do something about it now.
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ccpanel
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Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

YJason wrote:You may want to consider adding a couple idler pulleys. I had trouble when I added A/C to my 4 banger and I didn't have enough belt contact around the pulley. I had about the same amount of contact as you do. I'd put a idler between the A/C and alt and possibly another to increase the contact around the power steering pulley. Otherwise looks like a very nice build, I only bring up the pulley issue because it will be much easier to do something about it now.
Thanks for the info-that pulley routing is OEM for the 81. Granted-I never ran the AC before the body swap but...

OEM was a AIR pump instead of the York so routing is almost identical.
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ccpanel
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Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

We've all seen this before and hopefully this will continue to be the view instead of a naked motor with no fenders! Thanks to my wife for wrestling this across the yards and over hill/dale to "next door"
Image
Before
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After-plate style transmission cooler rated for 24,000 pound GVW attached to tranny with -6AN braided stainless hoses and fittings. 18 feet of hose combined with the cooler should bring my system fluid capacity up a bit from the OEM 17 pints. I put in 2.5 gallons so far to compensate for the bigger pan, the lines and the cooler. Should be close enough to not damage tranny while parked and during initial startup.
Image
Monday should be fill transfer case, bolt down carb and attach linkage and attach battery cables and fire it up for cam break-in.
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ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
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Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
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Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
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Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

Well, it’s alive. Yesterday. Sorta. It’s still dead but the engine lives. This is a video of one of the times starting it.
((video is not allowed apparantly))I duplicate post on my blog so email me if you wanna hear video and i will email you link.
(I chose this video since it was low Mb content. It stopped running because I didn't realize choke was on too much and the fan noise is a large blower I set up to make sure overheat during fire wasn't an issue)

There are other earlier videos but none of the other ones ran for long enough because… first it didn’t have fuel cause the hose going to the gas can of brand new 91 octane had floated up out of the fuel. Then it wouldn’t fire since I had forgot to connect the IGN wire to the module.

Once those things came together-it fired right up. And I broke in the cam.

Well… a few issues… one-the new tensioner pulley literally touches the electric fan… it ‘clearanced’ itself but I will need to spend some time doing some custom fan work to get some real clearance! At this point-I cant even remove the fan belt or the fan… LOL!

Second-the starter sounds like death sometimes when engine is warm. And the el cheapo key switch I custom modified is a piece of junk and will actually keep engaging the solenoid unless I manually move the key back to “run” anyone know where to find a good quality universal key switch?

And the kicker…truck will only go forward under extreme throttle input and … so the rule of 3 applies. I initially put this brand new rebuilt tranny together with the engine only to remember/discover that I forgot to include the bellhousing cover plate. So back apart and then back together with the right parts in the right places.

So it appears after 2 visits(without truck) to the tranny shop that

1-I have no pump pressure
2-tranny has to be drained, pan pulled and POSSIBLY for the THIRD time(charm) pull the tranny out and have the shop do(warrantied) repairs.

JOY.
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ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
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Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
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Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

(3/27/2010)
This part is supposed to be hidden inside the tranny up under the truck.
Image
It’s not.

This means my tranny guy took time out of his evening and came over and pulled the valve body hoping to find the problem why the pump isn’t putting out any pressure.
Long story longer-tranny has to come out and go to his shop where it will be further dissected and hopefully returned to its original proper glory and begin motivating me in a forward motion instead of not.

The rule of threes.

I pulled the driveshafts, put all 4 wheels up on jackstands and in the process found that one of the rear wheel studs was spinning in the axle-joy! I am swamped at work so its prob gonna be after Easter before I even get the tranny out. =(

I have been racking my brain trying to figure out any possible reason that this would happen but no answers have presented themselves. Possibly this motor makes too much power? But that doesn’t make sense as I did fireup and so forth in Park sitting in the garage. It’s not fluid level since I added almost 4 gallons in a tranny that takes 17 pints(8 pints=1 gallon) bone dry! My pan is deeper and I have 17' of -6AN cooler line and a 10x10 plate cooler so that is added capacity. Dipstick read slightly above full in neutral by the time I pulled the tranny.
Nothing could have got in the tranny while I worked on it since the converter never came out of tranny from the day it left the build shop and if dipstick was out-I was adding fluid yet when I pulled the pan there was a small 5/16” lockwasher in the bottom of the pan.

Nothing left to do but wait and see.
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ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
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Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
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Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

So after a super busy week last week and 4 days of a super long working weekend out of town, I managed to hook up with my tranny guy this evening.

Earlier I had managed to get the transfer case out by myself and got the crossmember out and the engine supported and all but 4 bolts out. Tranny guy came over around 6ish to lend a hand with his cool tranny jack. We got it out in just a few minutes and ran it over to his shop.

Turns out that he neglected to tighten all the bolts holding the pump to the front part of the tranny.

That lets virtually all the pressure the pump generates go squirting out into useless space inside the tranny instead of providing pressure to make things spin and drive the truck forward… apparently I was pretty lucky just to get it rolling out of the garage.

So 20-30 minutes at the shop cleaning and putting parts back together and less than an hour of him really going the extra mile(he did not do initial installation into my truck) by helping me put driveshaft back up and crossmember and transfer case… etc…

I'm real busy tomorrow but Saturday might see me spend that last 2 hours double checking everything and getting that pesky LR wheel stud installed and misc things and get this rig back on the road!

Very excited…!
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ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
Contact:

Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

Image
Apparently the third time is the charm. If these pictures are any indication-the tranny works correctly. There are minor adjustments to be made but its working properly now.
Now on to the nit-picky things like manual choke, new unburnt headlight, horns, air helpers in the rear, air system, dump bed and so forth.
Image
Those are earmuffs on my head as the exhaust system is not done till Tuesday.(=LOUD!)
The hardest part is going the next 500 miles without drag-racing it!
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ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
Contact:

Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

I really like the serpentine tensioner I installed but I had thought it was the problem when I had a HORRIBLE squeal coming from front drive area.
I tried "lathing" the flange off the edge in hopes it was rubbing but that wasn't it.
If we dumped water on belt-noise went away and that should have been the first clue.
I spent an hour this morning removing tensioner(5 min) and then using the alternator and PS pump to tension the belt(55 min)

Squeal still there. =(

With the tensioner gone I could tell the noise was coming from the area around my air compressor so I engaged it thinking the load might give me an indication-no change. But the air it was putting out was IMPRESSIVE!!! It is rated 10cfm and its obvious why.

So just on a whim, I (engine running) took some sandpaper and rubbed the grooves on the air pulley-noise changed. So I got more aggressive and wiggled my hand down under the spinning belt and held paper there till it was hot. All of a sudden-the noise went away. !!! So now I am going to put the tensioner BACK on the system since I really love how easy it is to do any accessory or belt changes with that setup.

It was rainy today but I drove it everywhere for my errands and my machinist said not to baby it but not to lug or over-rev it and so I opened it up a little more and it was nice-I have some carb work to do to dial it in but its working for now.

Exhaust shop said $400 for the single exhaust so for now my wreck yard special will have to do. $400!!! They do TERRIFIC work but they charged me less for the full dual system on my camper!
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ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
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Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

See how easy it is to adjust/tighten belt without radiator in place?! The tensioner still screams like crazy. Alignment issue that I didn't want to make time for now.
Image
Nothing like the third time for the radiator to be worked on. Sprung a leak when i went too fast on a super bumpy dirt road... and I made modifications and painted the shroud-fan was 'touching' and wouldn't "clearance" itself. LOL
Image
This is my dump bed ram.
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BUT... I may take it back and go with a different system. I still will have air over hyd as I believe air only isn't strong enough... I don't like the way this ram works-it goes up just fine... but coming down-I have to reach under there and open a valve.
If they make a remote valve-I will do that but I believe this is just a needle/seat setup to let the oil back down.
Hmmm....

Off to KAN in Redding.
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ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
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Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

Well, I finally got the dump bed working.

VIDEO--http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRleQzx-8Rw

It has zero load capacity until I make the frame for under the bed and load supporting things but I can get it to go up/down on its own. I did this to find out what works/doesn't work and to start on positioning.
Image
I have no idea why I thought 45 degrees was mandatory for dump angle. I got 36 degrees out of it and its real obvious that unless I'm transporting slug goo-anything i put in it will fall out!
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So now I have figured that I am going to keep the HF ram and setup. Especially after I saw pump pricing at over $300 and then $200 ram and then hose and back to the reason I wanted the HF one. (this is halfway down)
Image

I also uploaded some vids to YouTube that are a little out of date but still pretty cool.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIFy3KComwc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81cqo_HW354
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ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
Contact:

Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

got it weighed.
2340 in front and 1920 in the rear

done some other stuff too but been a little busy to post.

getting 14mpg w/no hood and a lead foot.

had pinging so went from 48 jet to 50 jet-helped a lot.
prob run up to a 52 jet and maybe a 1.14 carb instead of the current 1.08...
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SilverXJ
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Location: Radford, Va

Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by SilverXJ »

Any update on this beast?
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ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
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Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

SilverXJ wrote:Any update on this beast?



its got a working dump bed, been driven ??? miles(no speedometer) and no problems.

looks like I am getting a little blowby out the top end -maybe my PCV isn't sucking enough or the tube at the back is too small...

full synth only oil changes with GM EOS added to each change.

one regret-well, two actually.

first-being a luddite... i did a lot of work(and it looks and sounds cool) to make it carburated... its got power and sounds cool with the lumpy but its lumpy cause its not injected(read efficient)

second-I was very scared of the 10:1 compression so (forget) I either retarded cam 4' or put it straight up.
its a 89 stock cam. STOCK cam.
with enough time-I will first bump cam 4' more advanced from whatever it is.

I get 'okay' grunt off the line but the thing doesn't "turn on" until 3500+ and then it goes like BOH.

I spend 50-75% of time towing so i need grunt out of hole.

I have also been having an issue with starters.
first was teh OEM used one. that lasted for a while-last year sometime.
then the lifetime one from oreilly lasted till June, and that replacement lasted till last night.

I am guessing that the 10:1 is causing the starter to work too hard and it crunching bearings. the second one literally broke the nose off the starter.
the one last night has tons of alum shavings in the starter and the starter shaft was clunking back/forth.

I am running a 727 trans out of 81 waggy, crank out of 81 waggy, all bell covers out of 81 waggy, and starter out of 81 waggy.

all those parts should mate perfectly and be designed to work together.

there is no adjustment or shims, the starter gear is showing great engagement...

anyway-thats the short version.

also-used teh dump bed over weekend for demo on kitchen-1400# load... dumped great. put truck around 4200(don't know where the extra 200 came since I last weighed it)

had multiple issues with fuel gauge and sender-waggy stuff. gauge reads 3/4-1/4 within seconds and is random guessing. fuel pickup rarely gets within 3 gallons of empty before sucking air... PITA since it leaves me with about 14gall of useful tank. PITA!
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SilverXJ
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Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by SilverXJ »

The 10:1 compression shouldn't cause issues with the starter. Its not that high.
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ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
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Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

SilverXJ wrote:The 10:1 compression shouldn't cause issues with the starter. Its not that high.

thats what I figured.

this is my 3rd starter though.. I will see how long this one lasts.

The gears on both starter and flexplate both show good engagement and not abnormal wear(till the end of starter life -then it shows abuse)
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