1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

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ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
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Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

SilverXJ wrote:On the 4.0L the pressure relief is in the oil pump and the filter bypass in the filter.

You aren't ditching the step side bed for the dump bed?
the stepside bed IS the dump bed. go to near the bottom http://yepthisismylife.blogspot.com/200 ... chive.html

sadly-sorta-the fenders will be replaced with stationary utility boxes to hold my tools and other stuff.

The fenders are the wrong ones for that year truck anyway. those are 1956 fenders and bed.
Truck is a 1950(on a 81 wagoneer chassis)

color I am planning on sometime in the somewhat distant future;
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Ok8GzUd9n14/S ... Btruck.JPG
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User avatar
ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
Contact:

Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

oil pan to pickup clearance(that is black Play-doh)
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sandblasted and clearcoated
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sandblasted and 2,000 degree paint applied
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Close of business monday.
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User avatar
ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
Contact:

Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

Close of business Tuesday.
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User avatar
ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
Contact:

Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

Why you should label bolts during disassembly;
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Gymnastics required to apply 105 pounds of torque to the flexplate mounting bolts while hanging from the engine hoist.
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Bolted engine to tranny and noticed a big hole... oops!
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Back together with the proper missing piece. This is long!
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BTW-check your flexplate to converter bolt pattern BEFORE assembly to avoid panic. Turns out there is only one possible way to bolt them together and the correct way always leaves the converter drain plug accessible through this large hole in the flexplate. I also had to SLIGHTLY enlarge one bolt hole to account for a manufacturing error in welding on the nuts. Par for course.
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Close of business Wednesday. Dinner was due and the hoist was running into the frame.
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User avatar
ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
Contact:

Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

After an hour in my nice clothes.

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User avatar
gradon
Donator
Donator
Posts: 1353
Joined: February 13th, 2008, 5:33 pm
Stroker Displacement: 4.6/280ci
Vehicle Year: 1996
Vehicle Make: Jeep
Vehicle Model: Cherokee
Location: DC

Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by gradon »

So how much clearance did the pickup(is it HV?) have with the 258 pan? At least w/ the silver you'll be able to spot leaks.
User avatar
ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
Contact:

Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

gradon wrote:So how much clearance did the pickup(is it HV?) have with the 258 pan? At least w/ the silver you'll be able to spot leaks.
oil pump matches the block-only difference is the -A in the part number versus the 258 pump. the early pump relies on block to have bypass.

pickup is a replacement for the 258. Always get the pickup to match the year the pan came from.

I measured about 0.50-0.75" space between pickup and pan with my sophisticated playdoh measuring device.(see picture)

yeah-better not be any leaks... I sure wish i could find a cast aluminum oil pan for this thing.
User avatar
ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
Contact:

Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

Due to unrelated factors I am kind of stalled and since it wasnt going to be ready in time for heading into the snowy mountains today I decided to accept the delay and increase it... pics coming but I started putting the accessory brackets on and am thankful I took many pictures.

What a PITA... and silly me-I sent some of the 91 and 89 brackets along with the 81 brackets to the hot tank so they got all mixed up... more headaches... Also I had to contend with the intake being moved up much higher than stock and almost 0.060" being taken off the head and block in total.

So the delay is me going forward with doing the OBA york conversion NOW instead of later.

This means I needed to aquire the serpentine clutch pulley for my York. I actually got 2 Yorks and it turns out I ended up with a 209 and a 210. The 209 puts out 8.x CFM and the 210 puts out slightly over 10CFM. I will be using the 210 off a 72 ford extended cab camper special w/maybe the 460? anyway... the other one came off a dodge van and was vertical. Ive got plenty of room either sideways or vert.

4 CFM at 90 pounds pressure at 1,000 engine RPM with the 258 crankshaft pulley and the 5.875 york pulley

So ebay wanted $165 for the serp clutch, kilby wanted 145+20 shipping, and I am not only cheap but poor... so I used google and a few hours of my time to find the same 5030 clutch kilby uses and at a cheaper price.

these guys; http://www.valairinc.com/airconditioning/ac.html sold me the clutch for $65 +$15 shipping.
for those in the future-in case the link is dead- call ValAir Inc. @ 940-327-0682 and ask for Todd Harrington.
Super helpful and pleasant.
I compiled an excel file with part numbers and cross reference numbers using the ryder website. http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/cgi-b ... semain.jsp
User avatar
ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
Contact:

Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

posting out of order. this goes back a few days ago.

Due to the head having some cut off it and the block getting a lot cut off, the intake is higher than original and so forth… the brackets for the PS and other parts don’t line up like they should.
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I have no use for the A.I.R. pump and wanted to install an air compressor. I didn’t want to give up future air conditioning so I chose to install a York 210 AC compressor in addition to the cab AC. The advantage is that the York uses an oil pan instead of the freon to lubricate the pump. Thus no oil in air line. Google it for more explanation.

These are the 2 pumps and one of them is going in the upper right red circle
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This is what I had done to the intake to make it the same size as the adapter and carburetor.
This is the stock size hole
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This is the new size hole that should allow more air into engine!
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SilverXJ
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Posts: 5789
Joined: February 14th, 2008, 7:14 am
Stroker Displacement: 4.6L
Vehicle Year: 2000
Vehicle Make: Jeep
Vehicle Model: Cherokee
Location: Radford, Va

Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by SilverXJ »

I'm confused... how is the intake higher? If the block and head are cut, then wouldn't the intake actually sit lower? You had .060" cut off... how would that account for that large difference between the holes... plus doesn't the the AC compressor bracket still line up and that bolts to both the head and block?
User avatar
ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
Contact:

Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

SilverXJ wrote:I'm confused... how is the intake higher? If the block and head are cut, then wouldn't the intake actually sit lower? You had .060" cut off... how would that account for that large difference between the holes... plus doesn't the the AC compressor bracket still line up and that bolts to both the head and block?
60 thou is apparantly a decent enough amount that I had to hog the lower AC bracket hole about 1/8"
odd.

the intake is a 1981 carb intake and to get the ports to line up with the 7120 head the carb intake had to move up about 3/8"

enough so that the nub the intake fits over on the stock 258 head -on the 7120 head that hole in the intake is sitting 3/8" or more HIGHER...

I used playdoh and other means to verify the port matching so Im pretty spot-on. I may have even made note earlier in the broadcast.
User avatar
ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
Contact:

Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

During the last few days(gone over weekend) I have been piddling around getting brackets sorta aligned while waiting for my clutch pulley to arrive. I finalized the motor mount position, got donor distributor ready for oiling by removing gear and welding nut to top of shaft so I can spin by drill, found/cleaned/painted various brackets and so forth.
This is a bypass filter that is stock for this year that I am going to run. It uses an off-the-shelf NAPA 1503 4" x 8" filter. OEM was 4.5"x8" also in the background is the napagold 1049 filter that replaces a PH11 if you find a 258 oil filter adapter out of a 258 block. allows use of the biggest oil filter to fit the thread/block combo. eliminates the leaky 90 degree adapter and is a direct bolt-in-see previous detailed posts.
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I have also figured out as far as I can the way the air compressor will be mounted. That belt tensioner will take the place of the "force it, hold it and then hurry to tighten bolts while my arm gets tired" way of doing things. Thats a fffffford tensioner but I am thinking I want to find another one that spins the other way for easier mounting.
clockwise from upper left;
AC, tensioner, York 210 OBA, PS, 81 water pump, 81 damper, 84 alternator. All adjusting brackets moved as far inboard as possible and snugged down(I have fender clearance issues)
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User avatar
ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
Contact:

Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

been waiting for this all week(friday) this is a semi-truck serpentine pulley to convert the air compressor from V-belt to the serpentine style belt on my motor.
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before
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how may pairs of vise grips does it take to hold 3 pieces of metal in alignment?
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gap
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no gap
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notice the stratigic lever to keep the compressor from falling over and messing up my alignment.
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fakie after (end of day saturday w/vise grip hold belt "tight")
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All I need now is a longer belt and my tensioner installed. BTW-front face ofwater pump pulley rim to 3rd rib(not valley) from the back of every pulley is about 9/16" FYI.
User avatar
ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
Contact:

Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

Today I spent a couple hours in the wrecking yard, finding both a fffford and Chevy tensioner that "bends" the correct way. I took one off a 91 ffffford and an 89 Chevy. I ended up using the 89 Chevy as it has a bit more clearance to the heater hose. Plus it’s a Chevy. So I cut up the 73 ford York bracket to fit where I wanted it, then I cut up the 89 Chevy bracket so just a little bit was remaining where the tensioner mounted. Then it was a 'simple' matter of tacking it in place and then bending/measuring and fitting to make it line up properly. Some welding and cutting and welding and spacing and cutting and welding and bending and grinding and here we go.
I have the luxury of using the tensioner OR removing it and simply swinging the alternator to tension the belt.
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Finally I can move on to other things. Will paint/condition tomorrow and get a lot of stuff put back together. Fought the driver tire tonight-took off lug nuts and wheel wouldn’t come off. Beat and pried and finally resorted to my favorite tool-plumbers torch!
BTW-I realized last night that I have been routing the belt improperly. This is the correct way. This is a 930K6/K060930 belt.
User avatar
ccpanel
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 139
Joined: April 1st, 2009, 1:30 am
Stroker Displacement: 275
Vehicle Year: 1950
Vehicle Make: chevy
Vehicle Model: truck
Location: East Texas
Contact:

Re: 1950 chevy truck jeep stroker

Post by ccpanel »

So the countdown begins. Today was speedometer gear fixing a stripped thread, fuel pump relay, fuel line hookup, heater hose, carb/links, the correct oil pressure sender, power steering hoses/fluid, hook up wiring, prime oil system, clean and install distributor, spark plugs, wires..., wiring buss bar, valve cover gasket(which prompted cutting some of my fuel line and replacing it with hose-you know-3x work)clean up tools and floor, and some other misc stuff.
Tomorrow I hope to get front end in place enough to install tranny cooler and lines and get that finished. Once it is in place, I can add rest of tranny fluid, water in radiator, fill transfer case and fire up motor.
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I got asked today why this is taking so long and why I have to do things 3x when other people doing same build dont have as much trouble.
I try my hardest to be difficult and non-conformist and luddite..
But seriously. Most people take the fuel injected base motor, rebuild it, add 258 crank/rods/pistons and put it back in.
I chose to take some 1981 parts, 1981 intake manifold, 2100 carb, put the parts in/on a 1989 block, use a 1991 head, modify the factory 91 header to point in the right direction, and go back to using the non-standard 1981 accessory system while adding an air compressor. Not to mention I slowly and 5x checked all my motor specifications(blueprinted) and do to that diligence found some errors in the original castings that had to be modified for optimal results.(3x)
The end result is hopefully a 300,000 mile motor that will make over 275hp and tow reliably and much stronger than the worn out thing that blew mocha mud all over the inside of my hood.

OH! and unless you all want to contribute to the dyno fund-this will not get tested for true HP. I cant afford it. I hear prices start at over $150 and go up... thats 681 miles of $3.30 gas(yep-gotta love CA!) just barely enough to break it in.
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