DWG'S Stroker

Project vehicle blogs or "mod diary" specific threads only.. Pics encouraged!!
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Jeep4xb4u
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Stroker Displacement: 4.6L
Vehicle Year: 1988
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Location: BAY AREA / CA
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Re: DWG'S Stroker

Post by Jeep4xb4u »

Not to hijack and toltally off subject, but what camera are you shooting these pics with in perticular the first pic of the oil line close up. :huh:
88' XJ 2dr
4.0l / AW4 / NP231 / D35c
6.5" Long Arm Lift - 33x12.5's - 15x8 Mickey's

Currently working on 4.6l / D44 Swap
dwg86
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Re: DWG'S Stroker

Post by dwg86 »

It's my wifes old camera. I'm not sure what make, but it's at least 5 yrs old. I just bought her a new one for Christmas, but I haven't taken any pics with it yet. I don't think she trust me with it. I'm at work right now. I can find out when I get home.
Bodo
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Re: DWG'S Stroker

Post by Bodo »

From the EXIF data, it's a Nikon E885.
dwg86
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Re: DWG'S Stroker

Post by dwg86 »

You can tell that from the pictures?
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Re: DWG'S Stroker

Post by Bodo »

Yup, the camera stores everything about the camera and conditions in which the shot was taken. Exposure, ISO, fstop, if the flash fired or not. It's called EXIF data. Right-click the file and look at properties. Summary tab and click the advanced button. It's all there :)
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Jeep4xb4u
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Stroker Displacement: 4.6L
Vehicle Year: 1988
Vehicle Make: XJ 2dr
Vehicle Model: Sport
Location: BAY AREA / CA
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Re: DWG'S Stroker

Post by Jeep4xb4u »

Well all be Bodo, never new that existed and and i consider my self pretty computer smart. Any who, shrunk down to the preview size its a fairly decent picture for a 3 mega pixel camera. Just curious is all, do a lot of product photos over here at my work. Sorry for the interruption and back on to the build which by the way is looking very nice. Makes me want to tinker on my and take some new photos.

Where did you pick up the water pump inlet tube or are you reusing it. I've had an impossible time locating one local and might be forced to order one from either the dealer or Rock Auto.
88' XJ 2dr
4.0l / AW4 / NP231 / D35c
6.5" Long Arm Lift - 33x12.5's - 15x8 Mickey's

Currently working on 4.6l / D44 Swap
yuppiexj
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Stroker Displacement: 4.5 needs assembly
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Re: DWG'S Stroker

Post by yuppiexj »

Try a 3/8" NPT brass nipple, on the water pump to replace the steel pipe.

Won't rust, it's cheaper than the OEM part, and won't sieze to the aluminum as easily either.

On mine I used a 6" brass nipple to a 45 degree elbow to a 2" nipple. Any hardware store will have these parts.
TurboTom wrote:i will eat my words later if need be.
TurboTom wrote: Not sure of your rules...but you need to start with an engine that works best for the rules and cheat from there!
Proud owner of many stroker parts, that have not yet spontaneously assembled themselves.
dwg86
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Re: DWG'S Stroker

Post by dwg86 »

Jeep4xb4u wrote:Well all be Bodo, never new that existed and and i consider my self pretty computer smart. Any who, shrunk down to the preview size its a fairly decent picture for a 3 mega pixel camera. Just curious is all, do a lot of product photos over here at my work. Sorry for the interruption and back on to the build which by the way is looking very nice. Makes me want to tinker on my and take some new photos.

Where did you pick up the water pump inlet tube or are you reusing it. I've had an impossible time locating one local and might be forced to order one from either the dealer or Rock Auto.
I'm not very computer savy. My wife post the pics for me. As for the water pump tube...it was in good shape so I just painted it.
I've been wanting to install the stroker, but its been to hot here in Altanta. It was 95 in the shade today.
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Muad'Dib
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Re: DWG'S Stroker

Post by Muad'Dib »

yuppiexj wrote:Try a 3/8" NPT brass nipple, on the water pump to replace the steel pipe.

Won't rust, it's cheaper than the OEM part, and won't sieze to the aluminum as easily either.

On mine I used a 6" brass nipple to a 45 degree elbow to a 2" nipple. Any hardware store will have these parts.
lol i just picked up the parts for this last week... i thought i was going to be unique... guess not!! I did a 6" brass pipe, 45 elbow to a hose barb. Ill snap a pic if anyone wants to see the parts. I dont know if it changed much through the years, but on my 90 RENIX, its just a straight piece of steel with a flare on the hose end. So you have to buy a special hose, or bend the 45 with a straight piece. With the brass 45 and hose barb, it will be easy to run a straight piece of hose instead of worrying about the 45 right there. Now just gotta do the same for the "T" side!
If it feels right, then STROKE it!
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yuppiexj
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Re: DWG'S Stroker

Post by yuppiexj »

Muad'Dib wrote:Now just gotta do the same for the "T" side!
I just used a brass "t" with barbs on all sides (marked 3/8" I think). Homey Despot had it for ~$5 ea.
I used a lot more hose clamps that OEM that way but no longer have steel tubes to rust out from the inside.
TurboTom wrote:i will eat my words later if need be.
TurboTom wrote: Not sure of your rules...but you need to start with an engine that works best for the rules and cheat from there!
Proud owner of many stroker parts, that have not yet spontaneously assembled themselves.
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Jeep4xb4u
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Posts: 75
Joined: August 3rd, 2008, 6:44 pm
Stroker Displacement: 4.6L
Vehicle Year: 1988
Vehicle Make: XJ 2dr
Vehicle Model: Sport
Location: BAY AREA / CA
Contact:

Re: DWG'S Stroker

Post by Jeep4xb4u »

Ill have to look into this brass pipe idea. I've been surching around for some aluminium ones online now that you mentioned this.
88' XJ 2dr
4.0l / AW4 / NP231 / D35c
6.5" Long Arm Lift - 33x12.5's - 15x8 Mickey's

Currently working on 4.6l / D44 Swap
dwg86
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Stroker Displacement: 4.6
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Vehicle Model: Wrangler
Location: Atlanta, Ga

Re: DWG'S Stroker

Post by dwg86 »

Got the stroker in today and cam broke in. Everthing seamed to go OK. Started right up and ran for 20 mins @ 2000-2500 rpm. The valves make a little noise. Not tapping but...It's kinda hard to explain. I think it might the cam profle slamming the valves shut. It idles smooth, no leaks, good throttle response. I took it for a small ride around the block. Tomorrow I need to change the oil and install the high flow air cleaner. Pics to come.
dwg86
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Stroker Displacement: 4.6
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Vehicle Model: Wrangler
Location: Atlanta, Ga

Re: DWG'S Stroker

Post by dwg86 »

I drove the stroker 100 miles. It started missing really bad. Limmped home. Code 0306(misfire #6 cylinder). Removed all the spark plugs. Plugs 1-4 look pretty good, maybe a little on the light side. Number 5 is a little dark and #6 plug is fouled...big hunk of black stuff on the end. Engine is almost 1/2 quart low on oil. I haven't noticed any blue smoke. I've been through this once before with my 401, sucking oil through the pvc valve. It looks like the intake is wet inside. I removed the fittings and grommets from the valve cover. Started the engine and reved it up. Oil was splashing into the baffles I made under the valve cover. I am going to remove the valve cover and seal the ends of the baffles with RTV and drill a small hole for the breathers the breath.

I changed the #6 fuel injector and all the plugs...just because. It started right up and idled smooth.
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SilverXJ
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Re: DWG'S Stroker

Post by SilverXJ »

When I was talking to Hesco after I purchased my roller rockers I asked why I couldn't just remove the baffle. What happened with yours was pretty much their answer. I don't think using a HV oil pump helped either. IIRC Summit sell s some weld in oil baffles. Also, since the oil is coming up through the push rods, maybe seal the baffle on the side of push rod?
dwg86
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Re: DWG'S Stroker

Post by dwg86 »

I sealed the baffle and drilled a small hole in the bottom. We'll see what happens. I have 2 steel valve covers. I might cut them and weld them together so the valve cover is taller, or use an earlier aluminum valve cover. I don't know if Mopar Performance valve springs will hit the side of the aluminum valve cover. I guess I could buy a Hesco valve cover spacer. It is a bit pricey though.

I looked at the old valve cover. It looked like there was oil in the baffle area, and the bottom of the plastic elbow had oil on it. My old intake had a lot of carbon around the injector area. It was thicker on the runners for cylinders 5 and 6. Maybe a design flaw?

I also found a vaccum line off. Maybe that's why plugs 1-4 looked light, it was running lean.

Everything looked good when I remover the valve cover. No wear on the pushrods or guide plates.

I drove to work today. Engine sounds good. No valve tapping, noises, or detonation. It idles and runs very smooth. The extra money spent on balancing was worth it. I like the Engle cam. The highest rpm I have run so far was 4500. It pulled hard all the way through 4500. I don't know what the oil pressure is, as I am running the stock gauge. The oil pressure sits above half scale and stays there. The same as the old 4.0
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