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DWG'S Stroker

Posted: May 4th, 2009, 7:40 am
by dwg86
My 03 TJ is making a lot of noise so I had to speed up my stroker build. Hopefully I can change it out and have it running without many problems, as this is my daily driver, and I don't really want to buy another car right now. I haven't posted any pics right now. I have been sharing some pics of my build as I have been gathering parts and getting work done. I can post some pics if anyone likes.

Well here is a list of my parts that are in my stroker:
2000 block bored .040, zero deck
Mopar performance .043 head gasket
Fel Pro head bolts
Clevite hypereutectic pistons(silvolite reboxed) dished to 21cc(thanks oletshot)
258 rods, beams polished and shot peened, ARP rod bolts, big end resized
258 12 weight crank .010 mains, standard rods
clevite main bearings, federal mogul rod bearings
7120 head, DIY polish, combustion chamber opened up to 62.4 cc's, hardened exhaust seats installed
SBC 1.94/1.50 stainless undercut swirl polished valves
Mopar performance valve springs, comp cams retainers and 10 degree locks
Crower 1.6 rocker arms, comp guide plates, Trend one piece, chrome moly pushrods(9.350)
HV oil pump
Engle cam (214 duration @ .050 / .501 lift / 112 lobe centers / 3 degree advance ground into cam
Stanadyne lifters(Made in USA)
JP Performance double roller timing chain
Spring and pin removed from cam/solid pin made to retain cam
extra oil line to cam sensor drive gear
2000 intake
24# injectors(or 27#...same ones they sell at Five-o)
Stainless Rugged Ridge header for 2003 wrangler
LUK gold series clutch
Rotating assembly balanced
9.25 static comp / 7.8 dynamic comp.

Still need:
cat back exhaust
throttle body bored to 62mm (interested oletshot? :hrhr: )
Through out bearing(spelling??)

I am going to continue to drive my TJ untill it craps out, which I don't think will be very much longer. It is making a lot of lifter noise, and some other noise that sounds harder than a lifter, but doesn't do it all the time. It is still holding oil pressure...more than half on stock gauge scale.
It is also running out of power. It can't climb hills in 5th gear anymore, like it used to. I also can't park on a slope with out the E-brake. It creeps forward (no compression).
I am disappointed in the 4.0L. It only has 109,000 miles. A friend at work has over 350,000 on his 4.0 Comanchee, and hasn't touched it.

Re: DWG'S Stroker

Posted: June 20th, 2009, 10:07 am
by dwg86
Here are a few pics of the rockers. My pushrods ended up being 9.350 long. I had .400 milled off the rocker bosses. If anyone uses the crower rockers with the comp cams pushrod guide plates, I would have .150 milled off the rocker bosses not .400.

Re: DWG'S Stroker

Posted: June 20th, 2009, 10:15 am
by dwg86
Here are some pics of the distributor gear oil line. I used a .020 hole for the oil squirter. Driving the oil pump with a drill there was plenty of oil running onto the gear.

Re: DWG'S Stroker

Posted: June 20th, 2009, 10:18 am
by dwg86
Pics of the engine. Ready to go in.

Re: DWG'S Stroker

Posted: June 20th, 2009, 7:32 pm
by SilverXJ
Oh wow.. thats pretty. What paint did you use because it sure is glossy. Is that a KD torque wrench I see?

Re: DWG'S Stroker

Posted: June 20th, 2009, 7:52 pm
by dwg86
Thanks silver. I used rustoleum engine paint, and thats a Mac torque wrench.

Re: DWG'S Stroker

Posted: June 21st, 2009, 5:29 pm
by lafrad
is there a known issue for oiling with the cam gear?

Re: DWG'S Stroker

Posted: June 21st, 2009, 7:32 pm
by SilverXJ
You don't need a valve cover spacer with those rockers?

Re: DWG'S Stroker

Posted: June 21st, 2009, 8:04 pm
by dwg86
lafrad wrote:is there a known issue for oiling with the cam gear?
I have heard of a few. Also the aluminum 4.0 that hesco is having made has a pressure fed distributor gear made in the block. So I figured it couldn't hurt. It's easy enough to make, and to remove if I wanted to. Just remove the "T" fitting and put a plug in the hole by the gear. I also thought about making a line to the timing chain...maybe next stroker.

Re: DWG'S Stroker

Posted: June 21st, 2009, 8:08 pm
by dwg86
SilverXJ wrote:You don't need a valve cover spacer with those rockers?
No, but I had to remove the baffle viewtopic.php?f=5&t=961&p=10037#p10037

Re: DWG'S Stroker

Posted: June 21st, 2009, 8:14 pm
by SilverXJ
Ah.. ok.. my next question was going to be what did you do about the oil going to the PVC valve, but you already answered that.. did you rectify the springs hitting the valve cover?

Re: DWG'S Stroker

Posted: June 21st, 2009, 9:56 pm
by dwg86
Yes, all my springs were hitting. I had to "massage" the valve cover where the springs were hitting.

Re: DWG'S Stroker

Posted: June 24th, 2009, 1:14 pm
by 6TIME
dwg86 wrote:Yes, all my springs were hitting. I had to "massage" the valve cover where the springs were hitting.
I had the same issue with stiff comp 926 springs which I ditched. Put some crane 99833's in and they still rubbed slightly. I had to take the grinder to the inside of the cover to make them clear. Pretty much any spring over 1.4" od will be close to interference with the aluminum cover, so check accordingly when you have it off:)

Re: DWG'S Stroker

Posted: June 24th, 2009, 1:32 pm
by SilverXJ
He used the steel valve cover as I did. I just had to massage the back driver's corner just a bit on mine w/ the MP springs.

Re: DWG'S Stroker

Posted: June 24th, 2009, 6:38 pm
by Maize583
dwg86 wrote:Yes, all my springs were hitting. I had to "massage" the valve cover where the springs were hitting.

That is why I cut mine .400". So there was no clearance issues.

You may also want to run Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil. It has way more Zinc to prevent the cam from wiping out. That is probably why you are hearing lifter noise. Today's oil does not have enough Zince to keep flat tappet cams healthy.