thanks a lot for the help. i think i am about finished with the install.
one more question, i try starting, hear the fuel pump prime the first time, cranks but does not turn over. i can smell fuel in the intake, and i've double check my TDC with my CPS and distributor. any ideas? i tried pulling fault code, nothing. i'm thinking it may be my ignition. do i have to use the coil from the doner?
Thanks again.
I used the 4.0 coil. I'm not sure how afteramarket coils will work.
As Dino always says, be sure the distributor is indexed correctly. IT souds like you have.
The crank and cam position sensors are critical to get it to fire-- are you sure they are working/set/wired correctly? The cam sensor is in the 4.0 distribtor.
well i haven't quite gotten her started up yet. i'm kinda stuck at this point. when i try to start it sound like she wants to start, i get the engine sputtering, even going for a half a second but not turning over. i know my i'm getting fuel, and spark. i check my compression and thats good (110-115psi). i've tried adjusting my timing with the cps all over the place, and than tried flipping the distributor (cam sensor) around 180, and still same thing. i am thinking if i am getting everything it is most likely my timing is off. i set my cps to pulse 4 degrees before tdc on #1, is that right? i've hooked a scanner and get nothing.
i'm going to try to get a timing light and fuel pressure gauge next.
any idea of what it could be.
any idea are very much appreciated.
thanks a lot
ok, im thinking i must have done something wrong in the wiring, so im going to pull all the wiring out, and reinstall it. two questions on the wiring
1. could this be the security system. how do i tell, and or try to fix it?
2. looking at all the wiring write ups, everyone says splice cj light blue(hot on crank) to xj yellow(starter relay). im not using the start relay in the pdc. as far as i can see, the yellow only engages the starter relay and thats it. is there maybe something im missing. what is it the "yellow" xj wire goes to, or what circuit needs to get 12v on crank??
Ceru-
I'm sorry I didn't post up about this. I have no idea which direction to suggest.
Before tearing the entire wiring out, I'd check that all the wires are where they are supposed to be. Then again... maybe removing it all and checking it out of the vehicle will be easier.
I suggest not getting hung up on which wires you pull ground and power off of the CJ with. What we did was hook the PCM up to the battery with test leads (small gauge wires with alligator clips on each end). When we heard the pump running, we new it was getting power. We then cranked it and luckily it started. We had to shut it off by disconnecting a test lead from the battery. Basicly we made sure we had the 4.0 EFI system hooked up correctly before we integrated it into the CJ wiring harness.
Again, please keep me posted. I'm pulling for you. I wish I was there!
so i went through my wiring again, and bounced that off of several wiring diagrams. it should be right. one wire for the ignition circuit, one for the Bat., and the grounds. i get spark at the plugs, all my injectors are firing, and i'm getting good compression. one thing i'm thinking is maybe my crank sensor if off on its timing. how is it that you set yours. i'm the jeep mech book it says when #1 is at tdc, the trigger wheel should be 4' past the pulse. is that right? i just got a timing light today. how far is your timing advanced when your at idle? i think i heard someone say 14' - 16'?
thanks a lot.
great post and really appreciate the help.
Well, it sounds like you have the power hooked up correctly-- the spark seems to prove that.
As for the timing specifics, I don't know themand I don't have any refrence matieral here ... i"m sure it will atleast run if you have the settings close. As far as setting the CrankPS-- the Hesco kit has that figured out-- it justs bolts on and go.
ow sure are you about the fuel pressure? How have you tested it? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge onthe fuel rail?
i borrowed a fuel pressure gauge from a buddy, pulled the valve core out of the shrader valve, and just screwed it right in. when cranking i get around 40psi. i just used the OEM from the rail i got. i know my rail, regulator and injectors are good. i pulled them, used an air pump to pressurize the rail, and pulsed the injectors to see them pulse air.
as far as the timing, i'm thinking i might be firing before TDC, or maybe on the wrong stroke. i'm putting a timing light on it now to see where i'm at. hopefully that will shine some light to whats going on.
got a questionn on your crank dampner. did you use the HES9199ED (on your directions) or the V-Belt Damper #P5249687. looking at the pics, and off the hesco page, is was looking like the later. im thinking that may be my problem. my trigger wheel looks more like the one for an 87-90 (HES8790ED). something like that would through everything off...right???
thanks again.
its alllliiiiivvvveeee. just got her started up last night. turns out i tried to go cheap on the crank trigger wheel...BAD IDEA!!!! got the hesco balancer and she started right up.
thanks a lot for your help. your post with all the pics are awesome and a huge help.
I am new to the forum and please pardon my ignorance on the subject. I always had a Jeep in my younger years and after doing the career, wife ,home, and now kids, I decided the only thing missing is a Jeep. A life long buddy called up a year ago and said that he remembered promising me the first rights to his CJ5 about 15 years ago, if he was ever going to sell it. I had to make good on my request, especially since I found myself Jeepless at the time, and bought his '74 CJ5 that his father had bought new. It is bone stock, absolutely unmolested. I parked in my side yard for a few months then took it out one night and was rewarded by a nice engine fire caused by a desert pack rat nest that had been built on top of the manifold. After putting out the fire the damn thing actually started and I was able to limp home with limited throttle control. After replacing every hose, belt, and wire north of the firewall the thing runs like every other CJ, like crap, if you can get it started. It is almost an art to get it started and keep it running and that is on the street, off roading you have to be a migician especially with under-powered brakes and no power steering. Anyway, sorry to make a short story long, but I have been looking in to all the options. The Howell, the over priced Mopar kit, even some carb upgrade kits. I read this article only because I had heard about converting to a 4.0L head and thought why not use the FI system as well. This is the only truly informitive thing I have read in all of my searching so, either this site is full of genious or I am really bad at searching for info. The only thing I can't find any info on is if this conversion will work on the older CJ's. All I have seen it on are the 80's CJ's and I am wondering if there is something I am missing. So I could have just aked the one line question I guess. Will this work on my '74 CJ5 with the 258 I6?
yes, you can, Go to a parts yard get everything from a 94-95 jeep and start to work. A painless wiring kit makes it even easier, Get the Hesco relocator and mount the sensor on front of the motor instead of in the bell housing. It is not plug and play but doable.
John
quick question on the swap. i got mine running, but it idles real rough. i can keep it going with the throttle, but it dies with out that after a half a minute or so. my cps gap is around .065 to .07, and my running fuel pressure is around 35 psi. if i keep the throttle a little down (25%) is will smooth out real nice.
any idea?? areas to look at??
Bairedawg, as far as info goes, this site is great. another is cjoffroad. i highly recommend the junkyard mpi. you get the same thing for a fraction of the price...just a bit more research into it.
i'm thinking it may be my ignition. do i have to use the coil from the doner? 
got the hesco balancer and she started right up. 
