Jeep Strokers

I'm getting a P&P head from Russ with port matched intake and a nitrided cam + lifters. I've done a head swap before but never a cam swap. Anybody know of any good tutorials? I've searched but haven't found anything good. Also, how do I go about checking what length pushrods I need when I have to idea of the current deck height?

The cam install is pretty straightforward.

Carefully pull the old out
Check the bearings in the block to make sure they are sound.
Lube up the new cam with cam lube. I like GM EOS from the dealer.

Here is where you want to take the extra care. Degreeing the cam in.
Summit sells the degree wheel for a fair price. A dial indicator with a magnetic base you can get from HF.

Plenty of write-ups and video`s on the cam company websites and YouTube on how to do it. Don't rely on lining up the dots. Verify what your installing is indeed correct to the cam card. On more then one occasion cam timing has been off, requiring some adjustment. Russ will agree this is a must do.

Summit also sells a pushrod length checker. With the length checker you can dial in exactly the pushrod you need that will optimize geometry and give the lifter preload specific to YOUR engine.

Not sure what Russ is selling for pushrods but you can buy custom pushrods from Trend quite reasonably.

What are you doing for springs ? Like to see 100/110 on the seat and 250+/- at .500 lift. Stiff enough for our tractor engines but light enough to keep the cams alive. Guessing since Russ is doing the head he will also do the springs ?

This:

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca-7704-1

This:

http://m.harborfreight.com/1-inch-trave ... 20provided

And this:

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1057-16

Do those all look like what I need? Just throwing out there I'll be doing this with the motor in the Jeep and taking the front grill off the TJ. And yes, Russ is getting me an assembled ready to bolt on head ready, so he'll supply springs. That was kind of my excuse to get a P&P head

It just occured to me that I will need an adjustable timing set if I am going to degree the cam, correct?

Either adjustable timing set for an old style narrow lobe cam or offset crank key for a wide lobe newer style cam. I do not believe they make an adjustable timing gear set for the wide lobe. At least I couldn't find one.

Hi Chris,

I should've suggested to you when I sent you the cam the choice of purchasing a Rollmaster double roller timing set.
Besides the benefits of billet gears the crank gear has multi keyway slots allowing for 2° incremental adjustments.

I can always ship you a set with your cylinder head if you'd like.

Russ

Thanks Russ. Let me pull the timing cover and see what's on there now. I know it's a double roller, but not sure if it's adjustable. I'll shoot you an email in a day or two.

Just to update, I'm getting a new timing set from Russ. Current one has play, and might not be adjustable? Doesn't look like it. Weird thing; went to go set it at TDC and top of the compression stroke is definitely both dots facing 10 o'clock'ish, not having each other. I guess it varies by timing set manufacturer?

BTW I'm assuming it doesn't need to be *exactly* at TDC before I pull the head? I mean, it all moved a bit when I loosen the crank and cam bolts after lining then up.

Going to loosen the roller rockers and pull the push rods tomorrow (keeping them in order of course). Then pull the timing set off. Then I should be ready to loosen the head bolts and lift it off, right? All the intake/exhaust/accessory stuff is off already.

Aaaaaaaaannnnnnnnddd I just discovered that the black thing inside the timing cover was the timing chain guide and that I need to replace it since it was cracked in two. But the best part is my 4 year old flipped the box that had the cam retainer spring and pin in it, so not I have to source those as well I'm hoping neither of those bounced their way into the oil pan through the opening on the front, but I'm nor sure.

Found the timing chain guide on Amazon. From researching on here, looks like I need to go to the dealer and order part # 83502890 for the pub and spring? Still planning on dropping the oil pan to make sure it's not in there.

Russ has them.

Painted my valve cover and timing cover because.......race car? Anyways, thought it looked good, wanted to show it off a little before the bad pics...

So I pulled the head and the lifters for #6 because I thought the noise was coming from the rear of the motor.






That's the last lobe on the cam. Intake for #6 I think? Cupped for sure, and the lobe is worn down. Pics of that when I get the cam out.

Looks like a lot of carbon in the bores, and there is still good crosshatch, but the sides of the walls have been worn at the fronts/backs. You can see the lack of crosshatch if you look close enough. Thoughts? I know it's not ideal, but there isn't noticeable scoring, and I don't really have a rebuild in mind at the moment.

What oil, brand of lifters and spring specs ?