hott jeep ,why?

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honkysXJ
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 133
Joined: January 6th, 2013, 11:29 am
Stroker Displacement: almost stroked
Vehicle Year: 1997
Vehicle Make: jeep
Vehicle Model: cherokee

hott jeep ,why?

Post by honkysXJ »

The jeep has been doing good considering she's got a cracked block that I stop welded about a year ago,I have a new water pump,radiator,hoses,thermostat,topped off with 50/50 coolant
Yesterday she got up to about 230 and died,what I noticed is my oil pressure was low right before,and I got some kind of blo back in my water reservoir and it was almost full with water from the radiator??? I'm going to change thermostats today but I am kinda stumped why my oil pressure would be outta whack... :huh:
One thing might be worth mentioning I just added a k&n intake last week,I've never had this happen and nothing is leaking
My stroker should be ready in a month or so but I need her running without blowing my head up in the meanwhile
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cruiser54
Donator
Donator
Posts: 204
Joined: November 3rd, 2009, 4:38 pm
Stroker Displacement: 4.6
Vehicle Year: 1990
Vehicle Make: Jeep
Vehicle Model: Comanche
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Re: hott jeep ,why?

Post by cruiser54 »

Bad radiator cap?
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Wanna view my technical photos? WARNING: Renix heavy!!
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/g/album/1725214
honkysXJ
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 133
Joined: January 6th, 2013, 11:29 am
Stroker Displacement: almost stroked
Vehicle Year: 1997
Vehicle Make: jeep
Vehicle Model: cherokee

Re: hott jeep ,why?

Post by honkysXJ »

Thats one thing I actually didn't think about but may be possible,its probably the original!
Something else that was weird is neither of my radiator hoses were stiff when it overheated ! I know usually after a drive if you squeeze the hoses there's some resistance, I think ill try burping it and radiator cap tomorrow.
honkysXJ
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 133
Joined: January 6th, 2013, 11:29 am
Stroker Displacement: almost stroked
Vehicle Year: 1997
Vehicle Make: jeep
Vehicle Model: cherokee

Re: hott jeep ,why?

Post by honkysXJ »

I know its not a Robert Shaw but it was in stock and its a 180 degree stat which hopefully will do a little better than the stock 195 so I guess ill see!, my coolant had damn near evaporated so I got to figure this out ASAP...
Stroker ain't even in yet and I need this baby to stay cool
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honkysXJ
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 133
Joined: January 6th, 2013, 11:29 am
Stroker Displacement: almost stroked
Vehicle Year: 1997
Vehicle Make: jeep
Vehicle Model: cherokee

Re: hott jeep ,why?

Post by honkysXJ »

Did the swap and she's finally throwing codes,its the temp sending unit sensor and crankshaft sensor all together close to 100$, at the local parts store... No codes until I did the thermostat
honkysXJ
I made it to triple digits!
I made it to triple digits!
Posts: 133
Joined: January 6th, 2013, 11:29 am
Stroker Displacement: almost stroked
Vehicle Year: 1997
Vehicle Make: jeep
Vehicle Model: cherokee

Re: hott jeep ,why?

Post by honkysXJ »

Codes are gone guess it fixed itself,only now I'm loosing water and can't tell if its my lower hose or my weep hole so I guess ill be tearing her apart after work again! Water pump is still under warranty and no leaks until I did the thermostat !
No real questions or point to this post, I just figured I'd document it and maybe if I ever fix it hopefully someday it will help somebody narrow the shiot down without buying unnecessary parts !!!
More pics after work!!! My temp gauge is working B.T.W I'm not sure if the codes were a fluke or what
:smack:
heavy equipment
I think I'll order a "tab"
I think I'll order a "tab"
Posts: 43
Joined: November 6th, 2012, 5:41 pm
Stroker Displacement: 4.7L
Vehicle Year: 1990
Vehicle Make: Jeep
Vehicle Model: Cherokee

Re: hott jeep ,why?

Post by heavy equipment »

My favorite way to find coolant leaks is by pressurizing the system. On the older units with a pressure tank I install a metal tire valve in a 5/8" hole I drill in the side of the tank. I remove the valve core and clamp a hose on the valve stem. Then I connect the other end of the hose to a pressure regulator set to around 15 psi. Doing it while the engine is cool the water doesn't evaporate as soon as it leaves the pressure, so it's easier to see.

With a radiator cap you can just apply air pressure to the overflow hose until the pressure cap starts to leak. That way the cap is the pressure regulator, but without the regulator and gauge you can't test the cap this way. On some vehicles with a radiator cap I have installed the tire valve in one of the (metal) radiator tanks. This tests the cap as well as finding other leaks.
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