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How to cam swap and check pushrod length

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SkylinesSuck
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Location: Northern VA

Re: How to cam swap and check pushrod length

Postby SkylinesSuck » May 25th, 2017, 2:08 pm

Springs were Comp Cams 971-16 according to Chad Golen. I was running 10w-30 VR-1 forever on this motor, but for ONE oil change, which just happened to be the one the cam died on, I put in Mobile 1 5-w30 since it was cold out and I was getting some noise on start up. Not sure if the noise was this lifter starting to go out or not, but the 5-w30 made it a little more quiet on start up, until this happened. I'm sure this will get the oil conspiracy people going, but I doubt the short amount of time I ran this oil instead of VR-1 killed it. I think the lifters are either comp cam or whatever I researched everybody was using & recommending on here at the time this current cam went in.

jsawduste
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Re: How to cam swap and check pushrod length

Postby jsawduste » May 25th, 2017, 5:03 pm

Curious on the spring specs and how they were set up.

Normally see 100/110 on the seat and 240/245 @ .500

EDIT. Don't see 971-16's but do see 972-16's. Seem a bit stiff. If they are in fact 972's.

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SkylinesSuck
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Re: How to cam swap and check pushrod length

Postby SkylinesSuck » May 25th, 2017, 5:10 pm

Yeah, no idea as this was a Golen long block. Russ is setting me up with a completely assembled head tough so these springs won't kill the next cam regardless if they were at fault on this cam or not.

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SkylinesSuck
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Re: How to cam swap and check pushrod length

Postby SkylinesSuck » June 8th, 2017, 6:07 am

Image
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dwg86
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Re: How to cam swap and check pushrod length

Postby dwg86 » June 8th, 2017, 9:27 am

I would run some USA made lifters. http://www.hylift-johnson.com/ I used these on my 401 build. Call them directly to order. I paid $4.70 a piece. That's comparable to offshore junk price.

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SkylinesSuck
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Re: How to cam swap and check pushrod length

Postby SkylinesSuck » June 8th, 2017, 5:48 pm

Russ sent a set along with the new nitrided cam. I think they are comp cams units. Any reason those particular ones are better than the comp cams ones?

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Re: How to cam swap and check pushrod length

Postby dwg86 » June 8th, 2017, 7:22 pm

I don't know where comp gets their lifters from, but I do know the hylift are made in USA.

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SkylinesSuck
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Re: How to cam swap and check pushrod length

Postby SkylinesSuck » July 14th, 2017, 12:20 pm

So I've got the cam/lifters lubed up and installed and the rollmaster timing set installed straight up right now. Motor is set with #1 at the exact top of it's stroke using my handy dandy dial indicator and magnetic base. I want to degree the cam but I need to measure the intake lifter on #1 to do it, right? Do I need a special tool? There is no way I can figure that my dial indicator can reach down into the lifter gallery to get to the lifter. Is there some kind of extension for dial indicators I can't find? Also, I can't measure from the inner cup of the lifter due to the non-pumped lifter having play, right?

After I get this knocked out I'm ready to bolt the head back on and get it all put together.

GreenYJ
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Re: How to cam swap and check pushrod length

Postby GreenYJ » July 17th, 2017, 4:09 am

Stick a pushrod on the lifter and line up the oil hole at top end of pushrod with pointed end of dial indicator. If it's flat instead of pointed wrap a piece of masking tape around indicator tip to create a cylinder or cup to guide pushrod. You can't run KOH like this but it'll work to check intake centerline if your gentle with it. And the inner cup should be ok against the weak dial indicator spring.
1994 Sahara YJ

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SkylinesSuck
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Re: How to cam swap and check pushrod length

Postby SkylinesSuck » August 12th, 2017, 5:50 am

I was trying to wait until the 500 mile oil change as not to jinx it, but ef'it. Seems like everything was a success. Engine runs. Sounds mean. No issues other than oil pan bolts trying to loosen themselves up and making a mess. Do you guys put locktight on those? Can you even use that after oil has gotten in there?

The valve train is quieter than it ever was. Doesn't feel as punchy in the mid range as before, but it keeps pulling up top all the way to the rev limiter. I need a tune bad though. I'm running mid 14's above 3k rpm WOT lol. I'm sure a tune will wake it up a lot.

The break in oil change had a little silver floating in it and some on the magnetic drain plug, but not much. Assuming my oil looks good after the next change, I'm going to declare official victory. Might send the next oil change after that off to get tested.

Thank you to Russ for all the help and everybody else for the input!


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