Jeep Strokers

Hi all so I’m pretty new to this whole engine building thing and I have still so much to learn. However, something I just can’t wrap my head around yet is what to do with all the components from the camshaft up to the rockers. Can someone help me out?

Here is what my build is so far:
4.6L, .030” over bore, 4.2 crank w/ rods and 4.0 pistons
Also with the machining, i got a 3-angle valve job done on the head.

Can anyone help me out it terms of what to pick or even how to figure out what I would need?
Thanks ahead of time!

One of the determining factors in selecting a camshaft is if you're willing to upgrade your valve springs and retainers. Typically that cost will be between $250.00 to $300.00

Yes I was planning on that

bmax998 wrote: ↑June 27th, 2018, 3:31 pm Yes I was planning on that

Shoot me a call or email and I'll be happy to advise and discuss a valve spring and camshaft upgrade.

Thanks,
Russ Pottenger
Bishop-Buehl Racing Engines
531 N. Lyall Avenue
West Covina, California 91790
Work (626) 967-1000
Cell (626) 673-2203
Email/PayPal: [email protected]

I am on the same buss here...

Started to collect parts for my 4.6 torker. I just want low end, drivable torque machine.

Unfortunately - I have not yet come to the point of fully understand those multi digit number sets divided by strange characters

I Already put my hands on HO head (1995 engine), rest is still open. Minimum gas rating in our country is 95+, altitude - 0-3000 ft (the nice county of Slovenia )

Any feedback of cam selection would be great!

Thanks in advance for your help.

I used Howards Cams. There is only one offered other than a custom I believe. It is very mild and worked with factory springs set at 90lb on the seat. Runs strong to over 4K and has lots of low end. I used the 4.2 crank and rods, 4.0 hyper pistons, ported HO head, 24lb Ford injectors. Everything else is stock 4.0. I did not have to do any tuning or sensor manipulation with that setup.

Going over forums I learned:

- stock cams have wider lobes than aftermarket
- wide lobes are better than narrow IMHO.

Two questions:
- is there a roller tappet option for 4.0 I6?
- is there a company that regrinds the stock cam to new profile? A common thing done over here on the old continent....

BR M

Turbos10 wrote: ↑August 10th, 2018, 11:26 am I used Howards Cams. There is only one offered other than a custom I believe. It is very mild and worked with factory springs set at 90lb on the seat. Runs strong to over 4K and has lots of low end. I used the 4.2 crank and rods, 4.0 hyper pistons, ported HO head, 24lb Ford injectors. Everything else is stock 4.0. I did not have to do any tuning or sensor manipulation with that setup.

I guess this is the one?
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ ... refilter=1

I am again here with my 1995 WJ block that I have (for my 1999 TJ Stroker build).

Swapology question: would it work in older block?

BR M

TJryder wrote: ↑August 12th, 2018, 2:01 pm Going over forums I learned:

- stock cams have wider lobes than aftermarket
- wide lobes are better than narrow IMHO.

Two questions:
- is there a roller tappet option for 4.0 I6?
- is there a company that regrinds the stock cam to new profile? A common thing done over here on the old continent....

BR M

There are no (real) options for a roller cam for our motors. 505 performance had something for a while, but their name is mud around here and I haven't heard of anybody successfully using their setup.

And on the factory style wide lobe cams, I don't think it's a factor, same as most people on this board feel. The lifter rotates and only has a very small contact patch with the cam. The rest of the space is just wasted metal.

I recommend nitriding (heat treat) the camshaft.
Comp Cams does this in house once a week and offers it as an upgraded option to every flat tappet camshaft that they sell.

Every camshaft that I sell I have a nitrided version sitting next to it on my shelf.
I personally will not build an engine unless the camshaft is nitrided. It's the equivalent of purchasing auto/home Insurance.

Decisions, decisions....

I was playing with a 82 C3, and I had to replace the cam. I went cheap wit basic crane cam. I was suprissed to see the lobes in very rough state in terms of surface quality. I did go through break in process and oil change of course.

I am wondering what would be the state of your nitrated cam? Do you grind and polish before nitrating?

To my knowledge nitrated layer is 3x harder and break in would do nothing to it if it was not smooth before...

To best understand the process, my advice would be to google “Comp Cams Nitride”

Russ Pottenger wrote: ↑November 1st, 2018, 11:18 pm To best understand the process, my advice would be to google “Comp Cams Nitride”

Well explained. They go in polished I like that. On the list.