Help me build a 4.7L 300hp/300+lbft TorqueRRR
Posted: March 6th, 2018, 3:11 pm
After 9 months of extensive reading build threads, watching build videos and carefully tearing apart my 290000km stock 1995 4.0L RHD XJ Sport, I have decided to build a 4.7L stroker in Australia. After all the reading I have a fair idea about how things work and how they should to be put together. However, I have deficiencies in knowledge in some areas of this stroker build to reach my exact goal. Given that I live in Australia, down under, and all my parts are being freighted from USA and shipping costing an arm and a leg, I have pretty much a 0% tolerance for error in this build as returning parts is not an option. So i need some expert input in determining appropriate parts and specs.
Estimated SCR is approx. 10.25:1 and DCR is approx 9.5:1
My build's parts list as follows;
-1996 NVH+girdle Block which will be bored to 0.060
-Block will be decked off 0.030"
-Felpro 530SD 0.051" head gasket
-Most likely IC944-060 pistons - yet to purchase
-Hastings 2M667 0.060 Moly rings
-1995 "544" or 1996 "691" 4.0L conrods (they are visually different - yet to decide on strength)
-1971 AMC Rambler/Hornet 258ci manual trans 12wt crank shaft #3199738 (0.010/0.010 under) - Snout shortened and rear flange has been modded to fit the AW4 Auto trans and the flex plate using a custom pressed in adapter.
-1995 #7120 H.O. DIY ported head - Intake (avg) - 1.95"x 1.5" = 2.9+ sq inch / Exhaust - 1.71" x 1.46" = 2.5+ sq inch (these values are beyond Dino's site's DIY values, yet to experience the effects)
-Head will be milled off 0.020"
-Intake valves - yet to decide between stainless steel or stock replacement
-Exhaust valves - yet to decide between stainless steel or stock replacement
-Felpro premium valve stem seals
-Valve guides - Manganese bronze if stainless steel or stock integral guides if stock valves
-Valve seats - Cr-Ni hardened seats for stainless steel valves or even stock replacement valves
-Most likely Comp Cams 68-232-4 or 68-231-4 nitrided camshaft - yet to purchase
-Crower cam saver lifters
-Push rod length - yet to determine and purchase
-Mopar P5249464 + P4529218 + P4452032 Spring, retainer & lock combo
-Yella Terra 1.6 or 1.7 roller rockers - yet to decide and purchase
-Dual roller timing set - yet to purchase
-2003 TJ wrangler newer style intake manifold - ported
-70mm throttle body - 505 performance - yet to purchase
-1995 return style fuel rail
-Delphi FP10046 fuel pressure regulator - 40psi Idle/ 48psi WOT
-Ford motorsport M9593-LU24A 24lb/39psi 6 hole injectors with EV6 adapters
-Exhaust manifold - yet to decide & purchase
-All ARP hardware - Studs instead of bolts wherever possible
-All MOPAR sensors
-MAHLE/Clevite all tri metal bearings
-Flowkooler High flow water pump
-HESCO high flow thermostat housing
-195'F standard flow Stant thermostat
-3 Core Fully aluminum/ alloy radiator with triple electric fans, factory fan delete
-Accel120330 distributor cap
- MSD8228 Ignition coil
-Bosch 9656 Double Iridium Spark Plugs
-9.0mm ignition leads - already on motor
-K&N HP2004 Oil filter
-Melling High Volume oil pump
1). Will i explode on 91 octane unleaded fuel?
2). Will i explode even if i retard the ignition timing?
3). Which is the better cam out of the 2 above for low to mid range torque?
4). Is the 300hp/300+lbft goal unrealistic with this setup?
5). Will I end up with too much cylinder pressure and too thin cylinder walls?
6). Bosch 9656 double iridium - is it too hot?
7). Will i have piston-valve contact with Yella Terra 1.7 rockers?
8). Will I have coil bind on the Mopar P5249464 spring if used 1.7 rockers?
9). 1995 "544" or 1996 "691" conrods?
10). Using a High Volume water pump and a standard thermostat, will I end up with too much coolant pressure?
11). Does the injector + regulator combo suffice my fueling needs or should i upsize the injectors?
12). With the extreme DIY head porting will it negatively effect the breathing?
13). Am I missing any critical bits or is there a better recipe over this to achieve my power/torque goals in a low-mid rpm?
I understand it is a lot to ask for and may have been discussed repeatedly, but any input is highly regarded as local knowledge in Australia regarding Jeeps is way more rare than a hen's tooth.
Regards,
Kasun.
Estimated SCR is approx. 10.25:1 and DCR is approx 9.5:1
My build's parts list as follows;
-1996 NVH+girdle Block which will be bored to 0.060
-Block will be decked off 0.030"
-Felpro 530SD 0.051" head gasket
-Most likely IC944-060 pistons - yet to purchase
-Hastings 2M667 0.060 Moly rings
-1995 "544" or 1996 "691" 4.0L conrods (they are visually different - yet to decide on strength)
-1971 AMC Rambler/Hornet 258ci manual trans 12wt crank shaft #3199738 (0.010/0.010 under) - Snout shortened and rear flange has been modded to fit the AW4 Auto trans and the flex plate using a custom pressed in adapter.
-1995 #7120 H.O. DIY ported head - Intake (avg) - 1.95"x 1.5" = 2.9+ sq inch / Exhaust - 1.71" x 1.46" = 2.5+ sq inch (these values are beyond Dino's site's DIY values, yet to experience the effects)
-Head will be milled off 0.020"
-Intake valves - yet to decide between stainless steel or stock replacement
-Exhaust valves - yet to decide between stainless steel or stock replacement
-Felpro premium valve stem seals
-Valve guides - Manganese bronze if stainless steel or stock integral guides if stock valves
-Valve seats - Cr-Ni hardened seats for stainless steel valves or even stock replacement valves
-Most likely Comp Cams 68-232-4 or 68-231-4 nitrided camshaft - yet to purchase
-Crower cam saver lifters
-Push rod length - yet to determine and purchase
-Mopar P5249464 + P4529218 + P4452032 Spring, retainer & lock combo
-Yella Terra 1.6 or 1.7 roller rockers - yet to decide and purchase
-Dual roller timing set - yet to purchase
-2003 TJ wrangler newer style intake manifold - ported
-70mm throttle body - 505 performance - yet to purchase
-1995 return style fuel rail
-Delphi FP10046 fuel pressure regulator - 40psi Idle/ 48psi WOT
-Ford motorsport M9593-LU24A 24lb/39psi 6 hole injectors with EV6 adapters
-Exhaust manifold - yet to decide & purchase
-All ARP hardware - Studs instead of bolts wherever possible
-All MOPAR sensors
-MAHLE/Clevite all tri metal bearings
-Flowkooler High flow water pump
-HESCO high flow thermostat housing
-195'F standard flow Stant thermostat
-3 Core Fully aluminum/ alloy radiator with triple electric fans, factory fan delete
-Accel120330 distributor cap
- MSD8228 Ignition coil
-Bosch 9656 Double Iridium Spark Plugs
-9.0mm ignition leads - already on motor
-K&N HP2004 Oil filter
-Melling High Volume oil pump
1). Will i explode on 91 octane unleaded fuel?
2). Will i explode even if i retard the ignition timing?
3). Which is the better cam out of the 2 above for low to mid range torque?
4). Is the 300hp/300+lbft goal unrealistic with this setup?
5). Will I end up with too much cylinder pressure and too thin cylinder walls?
6). Bosch 9656 double iridium - is it too hot?
7). Will i have piston-valve contact with Yella Terra 1.7 rockers?
8). Will I have coil bind on the Mopar P5249464 spring if used 1.7 rockers?
9). 1995 "544" or 1996 "691" conrods?
10). Using a High Volume water pump and a standard thermostat, will I end up with too much coolant pressure?
11). Does the injector + regulator combo suffice my fueling needs or should i upsize the injectors?
12). With the extreme DIY head porting will it negatively effect the breathing?
13). Am I missing any critical bits or is there a better recipe over this to achieve my power/torque goals in a low-mid rpm?
I understand it is a lot to ask for and may have been discussed repeatedly, but any input is highly regarded as local knowledge in Australia regarding Jeeps is way more rare than a hen's tooth.
Regards,
Kasun.