87 Octane Low Budget Stroker

[krumy18]

Alright so I know I'm a bit crazy to think this could all work, but I am selling my 4 banger Cherokee and getting a 1997-2001 6 cylinder 4wd. I am planning to eventually stroke the engine to make it more reliable and obviously for the performance. I am trying to figure out all the parts to make a reliable engine that can still use cheap pump gas and not explode since the new jeep will be a daily driver and occasionally tow a gheenoe or jon boat. So, what I'm going for is a simple stroker(4.5 or 4.6) with a tight quench and the most ideal CR I can get with forged pistons. Trying to do this with the lowest cost possible. Any recipes?

[BADASYJ]

Oh yes, there are plenty of stroker recipes out there. All of the information you seek is here, you just need to find it.
I would start by living in the projects forum on this site for awhile. There you will find what you're looking for.

[BADASYJ]

Search for the member Cheromaniac, he has a link in his signature that has everything you need to know about strokers and which recipes will work for you. Click on it and start reading.

[Cheromaniac]

Search for the member Cheromaniac, he has a link in his signature that has everything you need to know about strokers and which recipes will work for you. Click on it and start reading.

No need. I'm already here.

Alright so I know I'm a bit crazy to think this could all work, but I am selling my 4 banger Cherokee and getting a 1997-2001 6 cylinder 4wd. I am planning to eventually stroke the engine to make it more reliable and obviously for the performance. I am trying to figure out all the parts to make a reliable engine that can still use cheap pump gas and not explode since the new jeep will be a daily driver and occasionally tow a gheenoe or jon boat. So, what I'm going for is a simple stroker(4.5 or 4.6) with a tight quench and the most ideal CR I can get with forged pistons. Trying to do this with the lowest cost possible. Any recipes?

How about this one?

4.6L Low-buck, low CR "rockcrawler"

Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
Jeep 4.0L 6.125" rods
Custom forged +0.030" bore pistons, compression height 1.380", dish volume 32cc
8.8:1 CR
CompCams 68-115-4 192/200 degree camshaft
DIY ported HO 1.91"/1.50" 57cc cylinder head
Mopar/Victor 0.043" head gasket
0.043" quench height
Accel 24lb/hr injectors for '96-'04 engines
242hp @ 4600rpm, 317lbft @ 3000rpm

[jeepxj3]

'Lower, lower bucks stroker'-
reuse the stock or new cam and add new lifters
Bosch 703/784 Neon injectors, the Accel injectors are expensive.

[Cheromaniac]

Bosch 0280155703 injectors are rated to flow 22.7lb/hr @ 43.5psi. In a 49psi fuel system ('96-'04) they'll flow 24.1lb/hr which makes them perfect for a stroker making around 240hp.

[krumy18]

Thank you Cheromaniac and everybody else. I've already read your entire stroker website with all of your mods and recipes. My next question I guess would be what are a set of relatively cheap custom forged pistons with all of those specs? Also, on all the camshafts they say that they only work for 1964-1997. Does this mean they can't be used on a 1998-2001 block? How important is porting the head/how hard is it to do the DIY port? With the new camshaft, should I just get the camshaft or do I need one of their kits? What kind of gas mileage would I expect after the rock crawler stroker in a 1998-2001?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Comp-Cams-SK68- ... oA&vxp=mtr

http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/K68-115-4/10002/-1

[Cheromaniac]

Just get the cam & lifter kit. You can reuse the stock valve springs and if you're going to replace the timing set, the Cloyes 9-3127 dual roller is a popular choice. The aftermarket cams will work on all 4.0L engines but if you have a '99+ block with the cam held in at the front by a thrust plate, you'll need to delete the thrust plate and get an aftermarket timing set plus an older style recessed cam sprocket retaining bolt with spring/pin.
For pistons, you could either go to Bulltear or ask Russ Pottenger to fix you up with a set. Cost will be somewhere around $450 for the set.
Porting the head will improve airflow and add power especially from 3000rpm upwards. With a good DIY port job you could gain as much as 20hp.
I used the excellent Standard Abrasives DIY head porting guide to do mine.

http://www.lcengineering.com/pdf/Head%2 ... asives.pdf

[Russ Pottenger]

I'll toss a few of my thoughts and ideas out there.

I'm a big proponent of maintaining a tight quench.
The efficiency that a tight quench creates during the combustion/power stroke cycle allows you to run a higher static compression ratio for the same givin octane fuel.

Example. A piston that protrudes .005 out of the deck will give you .038 piston to head at TDC that allows the following:

9.450 block deck height
58cc chamber
26cc reverse mirror dome
1.380 CH
.043 MLS head gasket
9.3 Static that will run on 87 octane all day long.

One of the added benefits of allowing me to build you a custom piston, is that with careful measurement we can potential he come up with these numbers without having to deck the block. That allows you to save extra money on machining costs if that's your choice.

The camshaft kits that you see in catalogs like Comp are intended to include Jeep 258 engine family which run different valve stem diameters and retainers than the 4.0

The cam I use with stock valves/Springs that Comp custom grinds for me. 206 212 @ .050 .435 in. .448 ex lift on a 113° lobe separation angle.

Converting the Cam thrust plate over to the earlier bolt, pin and spring isn't a problem. It's a $15.00 kit I get from the dealer.
The highest quality least expensive timing set is a billet gear double roller that I get from Rollmaster. They sell for $130.00

Don't hesitate to hit me up if I can help you in anyway.

Russ Pottenger
Bishop-Buehl Racing Engines
531 N. Lyall Avenue
West Covina, California 91790
(626) 673-2203
Email/PayPal: [email protected]

[krumy18]

So if I used:
Jeep 4.2 3.895" stroke crank
Jeep 4.0 6.125 rods
Custom forged pistons from Ross
CompCams 68-115-4 192/200 cam kit with lifters
DIY ported 7120 head 1.91"/1.50" 57cc
Cloyes 9-3127 dual roller timing chain
.043 gasket
Accel 24lb/hr injectors
BCP short ram intake and filter
Melling high volume oil pump

What else would I need and would the cam work even if it's made to fit with the 242 and 258? Or would I need the custom grind cam you get from Comp and if so, how much more would the custom grind cam be? Would I need to get main/rod bearings and cam bearings along with the cam kit?

[Cheromaniac]

Russ' pistons with a 0.038" quench and 9.3:1 SCR, combined with his custom cam, will work great.
You can order main, rod, and cam bearings separately, and I suggest you go with different injectors e.g. Bosch 0280155703.

[krumy18]

So if I used:
Jeep 4.2 3.895" stroke crank
Jeep 4.0 6.125 rods
Custom forged pistons from Ross
CompCams 68-115-4 192/200 cam kit with lifters
DIY ported 7120 head 1.91"/1.50" 57cc
Cloyes 9-3127 dual roller timing chain
.043 gasket
Accel 24lb/hr injectors
BCP short ram intake and filter
Melling high volume oil pump

What else would I need and would the cam work even if it's made to fit with the 242 and 258? Or would I need the custom grind cam you get from Comp and if so, how much more would the custom grind cam be? Would I need to get main/rod bearings and cam bearings along with the cam kit?

So if I switched the Accel injectors with the 703s and used the custom grinded cam with King main/rod bearings and Durabond camshaft bearings as shown in this kit, is there anything else I need? Also how much extra would the custom grinded cam be than the 68-115-4 cam and lifter kit?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMC-Jeep-242-4- ... 9t&vxp=mtr

[Russ Pottenger]

I'd suggest if you buy a stroker kit, it's best to buy as complete of a kit as you can from 1 supplier.
It'll save you time and aggravation in the long run.


Custom cam and lifters start at $230.00

[Cheromaniac]

So if I switched the Accel injectors with the 703s and used the custom grinded cam with King main/rod bearings and Durabond camshaft bearings as shown in this kit, is there anything else I need?

If you haven't already bought a 258 crank, I'd go with Russ' recommendation to buy the crank together with rod/main bearings as a kit. Otherwise you can buy the bearings separately if you already know which sizes you'll need. Cam bearings only come in one standard size as a set of four so it doesn't matter if you buy those separately but it'll be preferable to buy those as part of a bottom end kit if they're included. You might even be able to get the oil pump, timing set, upper/lower gasket sets, freeze plugs, cam/lifters, pushrods, and possibly injectors as well from the same supplier.
I sense that you could do a deal with Russ for the whole shebang and have it shipped in a large box.

[CJ-8_Jim]

Bosch 0280155703 injectors are rated to flow 22.7lb/hr @ 43.5psi. In a 49psi fuel system ('96-'04) they'll flow 24.1lb/hr which makes them perfect for a stroker making around 240hp.

If the Bosch 0280155703 can put out 22.7 lbs at 43.5 psi and 24lbs at 49psi, then wouldn't the stock '94-'95 injectors (part # 53030343, Tan) rated at 21.0lb/hr at 39psi, also out out ~24 lbs/hr at 49 psi? Or more precisely 23.54 lbs/hr = sq. rt. (49/39) x 21.0 = 23.54 lbs.

Or am I confusing something?

Looking at it this way, an Adjustable fuel pressure regulator with stock 94-95 injectors might get close to 24 lbs/hr for a mild stroker build.

The downside though is that the Bosch 0280155703 have the improved 4-hole design.

thoughts?