new here and have a question

[gremlinsteve]

vehicle is a 2006 wrangler.
i am interested in some upgrades. i am not sold on the stroker yet but might go that route.
in the mean time, can cam's be added to these year motors with out much issue?
im only concerned at this point with the tuning. wondering how the jeep computer is taking the "change".

i would assume exhaust and intake upgrades wont affect it much but wonder what the cam swap has been doing.

i am looking at this cam right now

p/n 68-232-4 from comp.

steve-o

[Cheromaniac]

That's a good choice of cam but I suggest you leave a cam swap as the last performance mod you do to your TJ. Initial mods you should be thinking about are a cold air intake (AEM or K&N FIPK), 62mm bored TB, exhaust, and a Flexalite electric fan to replace the HP-robbing stock clutch fan.
Thereafter you'll need to go inside the engine to find more HP (ported iron head or Hesco aluminium head, camshaft) or build a stroker.

[dwg86]

I agree. The last thing I would change would be the camshaft. Too many aftermarket camshaft failures. Most are blaming it on oil, and I do agree to some extent, but don't belive thats the whole story. I would love to see how many miles you get on your stock cam, since you are using the same oils as everyone else, or if you change to an aftermarket cam, I would like to see how much wear the stock cam has.
I have been using Mobil 1 since 18,000 miles in my 2003 wrangler, which is suppossed to be a no no with flat tappet cams. I now have 90,000 miles and still going strong. I used regular oil before that, no diesel oil or special addatives.
Sorry, I will step off my soap box. A sore subject with my now....
You will be supprised how much you can gain from a few bolt ons. Cold air intake with a high flow air cleaner(k&n type) would be my first choice. I noticed gains in HP and Gas mileage.

[gremlinsteve]

i understand the whole package thing.
when this is done it will be done with the afe, a high flow cat, a cat back exhaust along with the cam.
i would not hesitate using mobil one with any cam. dont know where that idea started. but i dont like it.

hesco head? ill pass. too much for what you get.
i port heads most every day. my main concern was the computer tune. guess it wont need much attention?

also. the designer of that hesco head, patriot..or more accurately alabama cyl head has come out with a new for 2008 4.0 head. fyi...
they are the ones who sold that program to hesco.

this will be my first 4.0 build. maybe do some before and after dyno pulls. im interested in what i can gain.


steve-o

[SilverXJ]

What is different about Alabama's new 2008 head? Is it just the redesigned one for the 0331 casting?

As far as the computer it may cope well, it may not. After I added put a 0630 head on my 2000 needed to get an Apexi to fatten up the AFR around 3000-3500 RPM. And since I swapped in a header for the 1998 I needed to add two bungs to the header and sim out the other two. At that point I had maxed out all the typical external bolt ons. I then went with a cam, the 68-232-4. Nice addition, but seeing as there are recent cam failures I wouldn't have changed it. I had actually attempted to use a used one from a 2004 TJ and that one was wiped out to begin with.

[gremlinsteve]

yea i have seen the cam issues now. i think im gonna research that before i move any further. i dont wanna be another casualty.

steve

[RAPTORFAN85]

What i am doing instead of a cam is adding some 1.7 roller rockers from yella terra. It will give more lift to the stock cam without having to even touch the cam. It should realy give me more torque down low and wake up the mid range some more also.
This will be added at the same time as my Alabama cylinder head (the redesigned 0331 head) that has been port and polished with the big valve upgrade from these guys. Check out the gains they made on a 4.0 head here, http://www.j-performance.com/index.php? ... view&id=30

should make for some good gains before I throw in the 4.2 4cw crank and diamond pistons sry, getting ahead of myself.

[SilverXJ]

Sounds like a good plan to me. Do you have a ballpark price on the porting and polishing.. if you don't mind that is.

[xjay]

I have heard that the problem with most of the cams that have been failing is that the oil companies haven't been adding enough zddp (zinc). They say that since the car mfgs are going to roller tappets they don't need the same parts per million of zddp. Comp has an additive for cam break in with extra zinc, but I am going to run Rotella after running a second bottle for final break in. Rotella is suposed to have all the right "stuff" for the flat tappet motors. I am running the cam you are talking about and like it so far. I only have about 600 miles on a new motor but no CAM problems. I also agree that the cam would be the last mod I would make. If you are looking for more seat-of-the-pants torque, do gears first. You can spend a lot on bolt on motor mods and get a little gain, or spend a lot on gears and get a huge gain.........or just go for it and BUILD A STROKER!!!!!!!!! Thats the most fun.

Xjay

[RAPTORFAN85]

Sounds like a good plan to me. Do you have a ballpark price on the porting and polishing.. if you don't mind that is.

from there website

Cylinder Head Porting

Finding the most available air flow is our main goal with each Cylinder head ported at Dr. J’s performance. We take the time to develop and test the ports on each individual head using all the tools available today. Every head is flow tested on our Superflow 600. And we provide you with before and after flow numbers. We also have the ability to select camshaft and create performance estimates based on your engine combination. Weather your heads are aluminum or cast iron Dr. J’s can get you churpin those gears and pullin brodies. If you would like to have your heads ported please feel free to contact us at [email protected]

Velocity Probe

The Dr. Air Velocity Probe is used on all of the heads we port. The advantage in using the Velocity probe is that is give us the ability to see where the air is moving fast or slow in the port.

Cylinder Head Porting
Includes the following

Fully radius short turns on the intake and exhaust
streamlined guide bosses on intake and exhaust
maximized push rod pinch opening
bowls cc'ed
bowls blended to
gasket matched
Before and After flow testing

At Dr J's Performance we do not believe on individual stages of porting, because it does not benefit the costumer. Our goal is to provide the customer with most amount of performance per dollar spent. Every head that leaves Dr J's performance is ported to its maximum potential.

Aluminim Heads starting at $ 600.00
Cast Iron Heads Staring at $ 675.00

[gremlinsteve]

also, i have had flat tapet cams eaten by the current low/no zinc oil. break in was performed and all the cams i have seen with wiped lobes because of that zinc issue still only lasted about 20 minutes.

so having one last 10k-20k miles and wipe a lobe seems odd.

steve-o

[Reelm n Rubi]

You cannot use that cam in a 2006. There are distict differances in the front end of the camshaft. Check the application chart. From what I have learned Comp cams does not make a cam for 1988 and up 4.0 engines. They will regrind your stocker for $150 and add some lift. I just had this done and the stock shaft only measured at .390 lift, they reground mine to .418 and kept the stock lobe seperation angles and durations. Make sure it's a fuel injected application shaft!! Been there , done that. Besides, the stock mopar shaft has better / wider lobes.

[dwg86]

This is what I have been trying to find out, but cam companies say the earlier cam will work if you use the earlier timing chain and cam bolt. Comp cams makes a cam for "fuel injected" engines that is based off of the earlier cores. I am not trying argue, but want to find out what is going on with these cams. I had been talking to a camshaft company that cast the cam blanks about having cams cast for the later modle blocks. They said there was not enough demand right now, but have been getting more request or inquiries about the later model cam. I need to call them back to try to get an update. I just got a 2000 engine that I will be tearing down. I am going to take some measurments of the 2000 cam and the mopar 30ab cam that I have.
Sorry I didn't mean to highjack this thread.It's just that I have been trying to to get to the bottom of the camshaft issue, talking to cam manufacturers and casting companies for over 6 months now. It seams as if I am always getting blown off...VERY FRUSTRATING!!!!!!

[gremlinsteve]

nice info. ill be waiting for more info. in the mean time ill stick with minor bolt ons.

steve

[SilverXJ]

Any cam for the AMC 258 engine will work in a 4.0. On 2000+ (or is it 99+?) you need to get the bolt, cam gear, pin and spring to use the earlier style cam ($40 at most?). The statement that the 68-232-4 will not work is incorrect as is the statement that comp cam does not make cams for the 4.0L.

Here are the part number you need:
Camshaft sprocket #53020445:
Bolt kit #83502890

Also an earlier timing set would work if you were replacing the chain as well.