Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Newbies, and basic Stroker Recipes... Get started with your first stroker here!!
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Cheromaniac
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by Cheromaniac »

Cybershot wrote:For the moderators

I can not change my summery above but to be complete and correct I would like to change

"Cylinder head from 2002/2006 Wrangler with TUPY stamp, or 2000/2001 with casting # 0360"

In to "Cylinder head from 2002/2006 Wrangler with TUPY stamp, I got one with casting # 0360 and took it due to availability (but is not the best option)"

Thanks
Tobias, the 0630 head that you bought is from a 1996-1999 Jeep.

For jbxx, the Harland Sharp roller rockers that I mentioned are pedestal-mount, non-adjustable units that are a straight bolt-on swap for the stock rockers. You can reuse the stock length pushrods with these unless you'll milled the head/block or reground the valve seats.
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by Cybershot »

Cheromaniac wrote:
Cybershot wrote:
In to "Cylinder head from 2002/2006 Wrangler with TUPY stamp, I got one with casting # 0360 and took it due to availability (but is not the best option)"
Tobias, the 0630 head that you bought is from a 1996-1999 Jeep.

For jbxx, the Harland Sharp roller rockers that I mentioned are pedestal-mount, non-adjustable units that are a straight bolt-on swap for the stock rockers. You can reuse the stock length pushrods with these unless you'll milled the head/block or reground the valve seats.
Sorry yes, mixed up the numbers. It it the 0630 head not 0360.

I will milled the block 0,020" down. So I have to adjust the push rods as well or order different type?
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by Cybershot »

One more question. I think I misstiped someting in the key matrix from the compression ratio calculator.

Can somebody tell me what?

Image

Also I want to ask what about the fuel used with which compreccion ratio?

Which fuel you can use for the stroker 4,7L??
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by Cybershot »

Part list

Image


Parts List

..

For the cylinder head (all from Mopar):
1) 6 VALVE, Intake
2) 6 SEAL, Valve Guide intake (not sure maybe not needed with the mopar performance springs)
3) 6 VALVE, Exhaust
4) 6 SEAL, Valve Guide exhaust (not sure maybe not needed with the mopar performance springs)
......

Do I need the standard valve seal (2&4) with the mopar performance springs?
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by Cheromaniac »

Cybershot wrote:Do I need the standard valve seal (2&4) with the mopar performance springs?
Yeah, you still need to use the standard valve stem oil seals even with the Mopar springs. Your compression ratio calculation is virtually correct but if you're going to mill 0.020" from the block deck, the CR will be 0.4:1 higher. With a static CR of 9.6:1 you'll be using the 95 RON octane Special fuel all of the time.
My stroker has a lower SCR and DCR, so I use the cheap 91 RON E-Plus (same as US 87 octane) for 5 months/year from November to March when it's less than 100*F outside and switch to Special in the hotter months.

PS: I'm not kidding. It really is 100+*F in Al Ain from beginning of April to end of October (7 months). Must be one of the hottest places on Earth 'cause the "winters" are also mild with temps. in the 70's.
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by Cybershot »

Cheromaniac wrote: For jbxx, the Harland Sharp roller rockers that I mentioned are pedestal-mount, non-adjustable units that are a straight bolt-on swap for the stock rockers. You can reuse the stock length pushrods with these unless you'll milled the head/block or reground the valve seats.
I have to milled the block by 0.020" and I belive also to adjust / reground the valve seats. How I manage the push rods? I have bought the original standart size. They will be adjusted or I have to order new once?

About the pugs for the fort injectors. How do they fit to my Jeep harnest?

Any good link who shows how to do the porting / polishing?
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by Cheromaniac »

I used the Standard Abrasives DIY head porting guide to port the head in my Jeep and it's excellent:

http://pirate4x4.com/tech//billavista/P ... asives.pdf

Your injector harness has plugs designed for EV6 style injectors but the Accel injectors that you bought are EV1 style, so you'll need to buy six adapters to make it plug n' play. You can get them from:

http://bwperformance.com/products/wirin ... or-adapter
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by wannabuildajeep »

Hi guys! Special shout out to Cheromanic. I've been reading your post for the last couple and years and really enjoy all the information you have managed to put together on the Jeeps.

I would like to start planning a build for my 2001 Grand Cherokee and have a couple of questions. I live in South Florida and have met several machinist through a buddy of mine. We did a 3.5L swap into a Nissan Sentra. Crazy fast little car!! So getting machine work done shouldn't be much of an issue. I would like to build the 4.8L stroker. My jeep has 165k miles on it. Still runs great but is starting to feel a little "tired". I have decent mechanical knowledge but would definitely consider myself a novice. Since I would like to run this jeep into the ground a new motor seems like the best option. Why not have some fun with it along the way!

1. The factory 4.0L doesn't have much "get up". Will the 4.8 make this jeep a much faster vehicle? I drive on the highway most of the time and would like to have maximum passing power.
2. Will I need to run high octane fuel?
3. Will most or all of the parts from Cybershot's list work for my build?
4. Should the machine shop know what the deck height and quench should be for my motor, or will I have to give them all that information?
5. Should I get the exact block and head for my year Grand Cherokee?

I have some other questions about transmissions, brakes, and shocks, but I'm not sure if this is the place to discuss that. Thanks ahead for all your help guys. Sorry if I am highjacking your post Cybershot. That's not my intension I just didn't figure I should start another post with so much information already in one place. Again I am a novice to all this so "my bad" if I ask you guys some questions you might have answered before.
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by SilverXJ »

wannabuildajeep wrote:1. The factory 4.0L doesn't have much "get up". Will the 4.8 make this jeep a much faster vehicle? I drive on the highway most of the time and would like to have maximum passing power.
Yes, it will make it quite a bit faster.
2. Will I need to run high octane fuel?
Depends on your build.
4. Should the machine shop know what the deck height and quench should be for my motor, or will I have to give them all that information?
Deck height can vary. You give them your crank, piston, rods and bearings and you tell them what you would like your deck clearance to be. They then assemble the partial short block, measure and cut the deck.
5. Should I get the exact block and head for my year Grand Cherokee?
A block from a 1999-2004 WJ will work.
I have some other questions about transmissions, brakes, and shocks, but I'm not sure if this is the place to discuss that.
You can ask anything you want, but for items such as you mention please use the General Tech forum. http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=24
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by wannabuildajeep »

Thanks for such a quick replay SilverXJ!

Which head should I use?

What type of fuel millage should I expect? I was thinking since the motor should be much more efficient that I should get maybe better or at least stay the same. What are your thoughts?
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by wannabuildajeep »

In your opinion should I go with the higher CR and run the higher octane fuel? Or should I just stick with the regular gas?
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by Cheromaniac »

wannabuildajeep wrote:Hi guys! Special shout out to Cheromanic. I've been reading your post for the last couple and years and really enjoy all the information you have managed to put together on the Jeeps.

I would like to start planning a build for my 2001 Grand Cherokee and have a couple of questions. I live in South Florida and have met several machinist through a buddy of mine. We did a 3.5L swap into a Nissan Sentra. Crazy fast little car!! So getting machine work done shouldn't be much of an issue. I would like to build the 4.8L stroker. My jeep has 165k miles on it. Still runs great but is starting to feel a little "tired". I have decent mechanical knowledge but would definitely consider myself a novice. Since I would like to run this jeep into the ground a new motor seems like the best option. Why not have some fun with it along the way!

1. The factory 4.0L doesn't have much "get up". Will the 4.8 make this jeep a much faster vehicle? I drive on the highway most of the time and would like to have maximum passing power.
I suggest you do something different from Tobias' build along these lines:

4.7L medium-buck stroker

Jeep 4.2L crank offset-ground to 3.915" stroke
Jeep 4.0L 6.125" rods
Keith-Black UEM-IC944-060 pistons
10.0:1 CR
CompCams 68-235-4 210/218 degree camshaft
CNC ported HO 1.91"/1.50" cylinder head
Mill block deck 0.018"
Mopar/Victor 0.043" head gasket
0.043" quench height
Flometrics F&B 68mm billet TB
Accel 26lb/hr injectors for '96-'04 engines
281hp @ 5000rpm, 337lbft @ 3700rpm

It isn't a 4.8 but it's pretty close and it'll definitely make your Jeep much faster. It's likely to need premium fuel but hey, a high performance engine should get the best brew available.
Keep in mind that if you have the crank's rod journals offset-ground to a 3.915" stroke, you'll need 0.040" undersize rod bearings (the maximum undersize available). Otherwise you can keep the standard stroke, settle for slightly less displacement (4657cc instead of 4681cc), and mill ~0.028" from the block deck instead of 0.018" to get zero deck clearance. The difference in power will be too small to notice.
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