Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by Cybershot »

Cheromaniac wrote: For blocks, any year will do but the '96+ blocks come with a main bearing cap girdle and studs so they're slightly better....

OK, I will try to find my casting nr, if I have no luck, I will take any from 96 and above

....Basically all you need to buy from the junkyard is the 4.0L block, head, oil pan (any), timing cover (any), valve cover (any)....

Ok, clear and on my list

.....and a camshaft bolt from a '98 or earlier model that has a hole in the middle with a spring, thrust pin, and washer....

Not sure how that looks. Anybody has a pic or can point it out in my pic / diagram above?

You'll be replacing all the internal engine parts anyway so there's no need to spend more money to buy a complete engine.

Well, makes sence and yes, just the summit racing part is already 2300$ :evil:
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by Cybershot »

Cheromaniac wrote:Go for it. Even though it's an '81-'86 258 crankshaft (3235477) with the longer 2.5" snout, you can still buy it. All you'll need to do is get an old scrap harmonic balancer from a 4.0L engine, take it to a lathe shop, and have a 1.0cm thick slice cut off from the rearmost part. You can use that as a spacer in front of the new harmonic balancer and it'll have its own keyway to make installation easy.
By the way, I forgot to mention that you'll need new connecting rod bolts and you can get those from, you've guessed it, Summit Racing:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-112-6001/
Sorry to "annoy" you again with the same question,but I just want to be sure ( I hate surprises! :D ).

The casting Nr 3235477 would be ok, as you mention in the post above.
Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CRANKSHA ... _500wt_956

He has as well this in stock and I want to know they are maybe better the the one before.

Option 2: Part Nr 3214722
Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-AMC- ... _500wt_956

Option 3: Part Nr 3214723
Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP-CRA ... _500wt_956
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by Cheromaniac »

Option 2 is an 8cwt 232 crankshaft so you don't want that one.
Option 3 is the same 12cwt 258 crankshaft that I used in my stroker so that's good.
.....and a camshaft bolt from a '98 or earlier model that has a hole in the middle with a spring, thrust pin, and washer....
Not sure how that looks. Anybody has a pic or can point it out in my pic / diagram above?
Take a look at http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=det ... catId=7758

The block you've shown in the pics should be OK provided it's not damaged and the cylinders and internal parts are clean. The outside of the block needs a good clean up and the freeze plugs need to be replaced. Let the machine shop hot tank it for you before they rebore the cylinders. You can paint the outside of the block later on in your favourite colour so it'll look nice.
Cybershot wrote:Today I wanted to kill my junk yard guy. I wanted to pick up my 2001 block and he sold it 2 day before, even knowing that I wanted it and he had my mobile nr.
Stupid, brain dead wanker. You should have squeezed your hands around his neck to put him out of his misery. ;)
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by Cybershot »

Cheromaniac wrote:Option 2 is an 8cwt 232 crankshaft so you don't want that one.
Option 3 is the same 12cwt 258 crankshaft that I used in my stroker so that's good.

Ok, means I shall go for option 3 or for the first?
.....and a camshaft bolt from a '98 or earlier model that has a hole in the middle with a spring, thrust pin, and washer....
Not sure how that looks. Anybody has a pic or can point it out in my pic / diagram above?
Take a look at http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=det ... catId=7758

Still don't get it. Maybe you can explain it to me on Thursday.

The block you've shown in the pics should be OK provided it's not damaged and the cylinders and internal parts are clean. The outside of the block needs a good clean up and the freeze plugs need to be replaced. Let the machine shop hot tank it for you before they rebore the cylinders. You can paint the outside of the block later on in your favourite colour so it'll look nice.

Ok, will get it cleaned and checked for obvious damages. Any idea why it don't have this "AA" in the casting nr.?
Cybershot wrote:Today I wanted to kill my junk yard guy. I wanted to pick up my 2001 block and he sold it 2 day before, even knowing that I wanted it and he had my mobile nr.
Stupid, brain dead wanker. You should have squeezed your hands around his neck to put him out of his misery. ;)

That bloody fr***king a*****l. :stick: what to do, it won't help me to look back. I am sure it will not be my last "obstruction" during my build up of the stroker.
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by Cybershot »

An forum is to exchange experience and help people with the same interests.

I have to say thank you to all people for your respond here and your PM's Specially to Cheromaniac (was my pleasure to meet you today)

Not sure how helpful it is for future stroker builders, but this here is my result for the part list to build my 4.7 liter stroker for the 2001 XJ

I will close this thread here from my side and start Phase 2: collecting of parts! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:


Part list

Image

Image

Parts List

Needed to Order in the USA 7 summitracing:

6 Pistons with rings: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-IC944KTM-060/
Keith Black/KB Pistons IC944-060

1 Camshaft: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-68-231-4/
COMP Cams 68-231-4

12 Valve springs: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-5249464/
Mopar Performance P5249464

12 Valve spring retainers: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4452032/
Mopar Performance P4452032

12 Valve keepers: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4529218/
Mopar Performance P4529218

6 Injectors: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-150824/
ACCEL 150824 - ACCEL Fuel Injectors

1 Flowkooler water pump: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRA-1747/
FlowKooler 1747

1 JET 180* thermostat: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JET-10170/
JET Performance 10170

12 Roller Rockers. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CSP-S40196/
Harland Sharp S40196

12 connecting rod bolts http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-112-6001/
ARP 112-6001 - ARP High Performance Connecting Rod Bolt Kits

And little extra power 
1Nitrous Injection Kit 50 HP http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VNM-N48-137/
VENOM High Performance N48-137

Screw for cam shaft with trust pin (not clear where to get it from but needed)


To get here from UAE:

- Block 2000/2001 Casting No. 53010449AA
- Cylinder head from 2002/2006 Wrangler with TUPY stamp, or 2000/2001 with casting # 0360
- Oil Pan
- Valve cover
- Throttle body
- crank shaft 258 - 4.2 liter with 12 counter weights

For the cylinder head (all from Mopar):
1) 6 VALVE, Intake
2) 6 SEAL, Valve Guide intake (not sure maybe not needed with the mopar performance springs)
3) 6 VALVE, Exhaust
4) 6 SEAL, Valve Guide exhaust (not sure maybe not needed with the mopar performance springs)
5) !!No PIVOT, for the Rocker Arm and NO BRIDGE, for the Rocker Arm!!
6) 12 Tappet, Valve
7) 12 Pushrods, Valve (standard 4,0L!)
8) 1 Gasket, Valve Cover
9) 1 Gasket, Cylinder Head

For crank and Pistons (all from Mopar):
10) 12 Main Bearing, Crankshaft (12 pieces each half round) Picture 1
11) 1 Thrust Bearing,Crankshaft
12) 12 Bearing, Connecting Rod & 6 Rods (12 pieces each half round)
13) Set of 5 Bearing, Camshaft (still for the stock 4.0L?)
14) 1Gasket, Manifold
15) 1 GEAR, Crankshaft ( in the timing chain set)
16) 1 SLINGER, Oil Slinger next to Gear (in the timing chain set)
17) 1Bearing, Crankshaft Pilot
18) 1 timing chain and 2 sprockets
19) 1 Gasket & Seal Kit, Timing (in the timing chain set)

Block and accessories (all from Mopar)::
20) 1Gasket Set, Oil Pan
21) 1Filter, Engine Oil
22) 1Oilpump
XX) freeze plugs
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by SilverXJ »

If you are already ordering from the US why are you buying all those other parts from Mopar? Bearings, gaskets, timing sets, lifters, etc are all available cheaper and better in aftermarket unless you have some kind of connection at the dealer. The only thing that you might need to buy from Mopar is the oil slinger and the cam bolt, washer, pin. Those parts numbers are in the FAQ section under Misc part numbers thread.

As for the head there is no 00-01 0630 head. As I said in the first reply you would need an earlier 0630 head. 1996-1998 and some 1999.
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by Cheromaniac »

SilverXJ wrote:If you are already ordering from the US why are you buying all those other parts from Mopar?
He's trying to buy some parts locally from various Mopar/Jeep parts shops in the Abu Dhabi area, and today he found a 0630 head for less than $100.
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by Cybershot »

SilverXJ wrote:If you are already ordering from the US why are you buying all those other parts from Mopar? Bearings, gaskets, timing sets, lifters, etc are all available cheaper and better in aftermarket unless you have some kind of connection at the dealer. The only thing that you might need to buy from Mopar is the oil slinger and the cam bolt, washer, pin. Those parts numbers are in the FAQ section under Misc part numbers thread.

As for the head there is no 00-01 0630 head. As I said in the first reply you would need an earlier 0630 head. 1996-1998 and some 1999.
Here are not all parts available. The parts I have to order from the USA are costly in shipping. If I order 1 item by 1 item, the shipping exceeds the value of the parts. So I made a bulk order from 1 place in the states and whatever is available here (due to bulk sea shipments and stock keeping) I will buy here. Mopar and sealed power are quite common and available since the last 1-2 years.

I know that the best option would be the head of 2002 till 2006 but I got the block for 110$ and the head for 90$. for the 2002+ I would have to buy a complete engine and through away most of if. Cheromaniac told me about manifold and gasket differences but I did not had a other option. So I take the risk of modifying something at this area later.
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by Cybershot »

For the moderators

I can not change my summery above but to be complete and correct I would like to change

"Cylinder head from 2002/2006 Wrangler with TUPY stamp, or 2000/2001 with casting # 0360"

In to "Cylinder head from 2002/2006 Wrangler with TUPY stamp, I got one with casting # 0360 and took it due to availability (but is not the best option)"

Thanks
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by jbxx »

Someone here please correct me if I'm wrong.
If you use the S40196 HS rockers you will have to get studs redone,
and you may need guide plates.
See:
http://www.harlandsharp.com/pictures%20 ... ebpage.pdf
Also, if you are taking a bunch of material off the block, you may need to shorten the pushrods.
I will be doing a similar build when my pistons get here (11 mos. and waiting) so I just ordered a pushrod length checker.
J.B.
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by jbxx »

See this thread too!
http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... 7&start=15
I am confused now. Just trying to post what I have been thinking about for too long!
Looks like I have given bad info. Silver, care to correct? :doh:
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by SilverXJ »

The Harland Sharp S40196 and S40196A are pedestal mount and self aligning. You don't have to modify the head for studs nor do you need guide plates. They pretty much bolt on. I am not sure about the non adjustable but with the adjustable you need a valve cover spacer and t-stat housing spacer or a taller valve cover.

Good call on the pushrod length checker. Just taking into account the material from the head and deck and using that to get a pushrod length is a bad idea. It doesn't take into account a smaller diameter base circle on the cam, different lifter dimensions, movement of the valve from a valve job and rocker differences (in the case of the HS vs stock).
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by jbxx »

So Chero, if I am understanding this correctly. I fU, I got the HS 4096,
so with these I will need :guideplates, dropping the head approx .4", and custom pushrods.
With the 40196, you don't need any of this?
Tnx. J.B.
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by SilverXJ »

Thats correct. Although you will probably still need different length pushrods for the S40916 rockers (S40916A is the adjustable version).
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Re: Phase I: planning an 4,7L in the United Emirates

Post by sudo chop »

SilverXJ wrote:Good call on the pushrod length checker. Just taking into account the material from the head and deck and using that to get a pushrod length is a bad idea. It doesn't take into account a smaller diameter base circle on the cam, different lifter dimensions, movement of the valve from a valve job and rocker differences (in the case of the HS vs stock).
Definitely. I had about .040" taken from my block and I ended up with .065" shorter pushrods after using the length checker.
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