Stroker questions, low CR 4.6 config

[jeepmkcomin]

The block I believe is a 93 and the head a 97, or it could all be a 97. I'm not completely sure. I think I have found another crankshaft to use but I'm unsure. Stock cam sounds like a good idea to me.

Thanks for the advice so far, I will check back in monday or tuesday. I'm taking the Jeep up to URE ORV for the next 4-5 days.

[John]

Check our FAQ section, casting numbers should identify the block and for you if it doesn't, let me know and I can help.
John

[John]

Here is some info on further dating blocks.
This code is on the block below the spark plug holes.
401MX12

* 4 = Year (1994)
* 01 = Month (January)
* MX = Engine Type/Fuel System/Compression Ratio (MX is a 243 CID, multi-port fuel injection system with 8.8:1 ratio
* 12 = Day of month of engine build

Other code considerations are oversize or undersized components. This information is stamped on the boss between the ignition coil and the distributor.

Undersized

* P = One or more connecting rods bearing journals
* M = All crankshaft main bearing journals
* PM = All crankshaft main bearing journals and one or more connecting rod journal

Oversize

* B = All cylinder bores
* C = all camshaft bearing bores

Source is Jeep Engines, Speed Secrets & Racing Modifications For Jeep-Built 4,6, & V-8 Engines.
John

[jeepmkcomin]

Thanks for the advice I will check on the block as soon as I get a chance. I didn't see it in the FAQ but is there a number of some sort on the head also?

Thanks again. URE was awesome by the way . Would be amazing with a stroker and more low end.

[edit]: Another thing I've been thinking about... Where should I grab all the wiring for this engine? Should I looking for a similar year cherokee or wrangler?

[gradon]

Get a OBD-1 harness and ecu(91-95).

[John]

Jeep heads are identified by a casting number on top of the head above the #4 exhaust port, on the manifold side.

The cylinder heads

The stock I6 cylinder head is cast iron and weighs about 60lb. The valve head diameter is 1.91" intake/1.50" exhaust. Casting numbers are as follows:

Year............Casting No
1987-90......2686
1991-95......7120
1996-98......0630
1999-06......0331

John

[jeepmkcomin]

Okay found some numbers...

on the block: 5308405 (which I must have left a 0 out... so a 91-95 block), 8952002786, 4.0L-5 9, 1F 9 22 92
on the head: 92, NH2
on the intake (if this matters): 53010236, 11596

I realize I didn't get the important number off the head (the one above spark plug #4) but it's 88 here with 61% humidity so I'll find it later.

Would painless be a good company to find a harness for a 91-95 with a ecm? or should I just look for a 91-95 xj or yj?

[gradon]

At my JY the ecm is $27.35 and the wiring harness is $5.66 a ft(and I'd leave the sensors connected), so it'd be roughly $75 for it all.

[John]

Painless has a nice wiring harness and a new complete system with tuned computer, but if you are on a budget. Ouch. I keep an eye out for jeep oem computers myself.
John

[jeepmkcomin]

How do I tell if the flywheel is an automatic or manual flywheel?

Another question. I have an engine stand to put the engine on and get going but... I don't want the engine to sieze up while it's sitting around... Since it will be bored and honed anyways should I just take out strip everything out until it the bare block? Or would I be better off bolting the head back on, the valve cover, and the oil pan and leaving everything inside... I could cover up the intake and exhaust holes. (I have a lot of extra parts previous owner gave me with the engine, valve cover, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, oil pan, flywheel, distributer & wires, etc)

[gradon]

You could strip the block and use vaseline to coat the bores and deck or put it back together and hand tighten the bolts/use a few bolts on the corners to hold in place. I didn't strip my block until the day I dropped it off at the machinist.