Cam Failure

[FrankZ]

Every motor is different so there's no set in stone list of parts to replace. I learned that your better off tearing into the motor and inspecting every part. Seems that the most common items to be replaced are
Cam & Lifters (Duh!)
Oil Pump
Rod & Main Bearings
Cam Bearings


My cam bearings were fine but the rod and main bearings has a little more wear than expected, probably due to the fine metal particles from the worn cam lobe. I replaced all of the rod and main bearings just to be safe.

Oil pumps can take a beating intenally from any debris, even really fine particals. The tolerances are pretty tight to begin with so a new one is just a matter of common sense.

Some engines will need to be boiled to thoroughly clean out the debris. I got lucky and didn't have to do that. I did use alot of brake parts cleaner and compressed air to clean the block and the oil passages in the crank .

Worst case scenerio...new crank and rods. If the wear from the debris is bad enough there's the possibility that theses parts could damaged beyond repair. This is especially true of bearing surfaces that have been machined alot prior to the initial build. If your crank shaft was turned .040" you'll have to pay very close attention to the shaft and bearings since it will already be thin, so to speak.

FWIW:
As of last night
Install new cam Done
Install new main bearings Done
Install crankshaft Done
Check main bearing clearance Done
Install new rear main seal Done
Install timing chain Done

Scheduled for tonight
Piston Rings
Install pistons
Install new oil pump
Install new lifters
Install cylinder head
Check lifter preload

[Chris]

yikes, so when the cam goes bad, it's prettymuch a complete rebuild. Now I've got to do more research on the cam...don't want to get one that I have to worry about (is that possible?)...lol

[Flash]

sound like you will be up and running again before two long

Just my though on your cam choice. With a lot more duration and, less lift, Not only will your profile run smoother(which would require less spring pressure) and the less lift will put less spring pressure on the cam,........whether you install lighter spring or not.

I real like your choice, If for nothing else, then it will ware better then the crane(or at least it should!) cam.
The only thing i wonder about is the over lap..........Did it come with a cam card and if so what was the over lap degrees.


Flash

[FrankZ]

yikes, so when the cam goes bad, it's prettymuch a complete rebuild. Now I've got to do more research on the cam...don't want to get one that I have to worry about (is that possible?)...lol

I don't believe that any aftermarket cam is immune.

Flash,
I'll get the info for ya and post up a little later.

[seanyb505]

I think if any aftermarket cam were to be not likely to go, it would be a Mopar. Not from experience but they are the stock pieces with more aggresive grinds. I dont remember seeing any stock pieces fail lately.

Flash, yes Crane tech support was a little off. He pretty much told me no Crane cams ever failed in a 4.0, and all the specs I knew were wrong. Not a good way to make a sale.

[oletshot]

Just my though on your cam choice. With a lot more duration and, less lift, Not only will your profile run smoother(which would require less spring pressure) and the less lift will put less spring pressure on the cam,........whether you install lighter spring or not.

I real like your choice, If for nothing else, then it will ware better then the crane(or at least it should!) cam.
The only thing i wonder about is the over lap..........Did it come with a cam card and if so what was the over lap degrees.


Flash
sound like you will be up and running again before two long

Just my though on your cam choice. With a lot more duration and, less lift, Not only will your profile run smoother(which would require less spring pressure) and the less lift will put less spring pressure on the cam,........whether you install lighter spring or not.

I real like your choice, If for nothing else, then it will ware better then the crane(or at least it should!) cam.
The only thing i wonder about is the over lap..........Did it come with a cam card and if so what was the over lap degrees.


Flash

Flash the Baja Beast is the same cam as the clevite 229-2174 that I"m using and gave you the the specs for except 2 degs advanced. Intake opens at 32 BTDC and closes 70 ABDC, exhaust opens 74 BBDC and closes 26 ATDC. Same cam just 2 degrees off or different. It'll be interesting to see how it works in his build.

[Flash]

Ya i will have to run a comparison of the two cams to night on my desk top Dyno then will have to see how the comparison hold up to real live testing!!!!!!

What i was wondering was vac and idle and idle characteristics of the cam......or over lap

Of course were going to have to what for Frank to brake in his cam as well as his ring.....again


Flash

[Chris]

Been trying to do a little research on WHY the cams are going out on so many strokers. This has made me nervous to start my project. I don't want to sink this kind of money into something for my DD that has to just be redone in a few thousand miles. But that aside, I'm still looking for the "cure all" for the cam problems. I have heard some talk of the distributor gear being too soft for the aftermarket cams, and that is why the strokers with the factory cams are lasting longer than the ones with aftermarket cams. The high performance guys are saying the cam and dis. gear need to be made of the same material. That and comp(seems this is the company with the most issues) might have not got the gear mesh exactly correct. I am a noob to engine internals like this, and haven't had enough time to research more, but is there a way to get a harder gear for the distributor, or does comp sell one that would match perfectly with their cams?

[Flash]

Been trying to do a little research on WHY the cams are going out on so many strokers. This has made me nervous to start my project. I don't want to sink this kind of money into something for my DD that has to just be redone in a few thousand miles. But that aside, I'm still looking for the "cure all" for the cam problems. I have heard some talk of the distributor gear being too soft for the aftermarket cams, and that is why the strokers with the factory cams are lasting longer than the ones with aftermarket cams. The high performance guys are saying the cam and dis. gear need to be made of the same material. That and comp(seems this is the company with the most issues) might have not got the gear mesh exactly correct. I am a noob to engine internals like this, and haven't had enough time to research more, but is there a way to get a harder gear for the distributor, or does comp sell one that would match perfectly with their cams?

Usually with the bigger cams and harder material cam(not us) they go to a brass.alu dis gear..........so harder isn't the answer
This problem is more related to the High rpm stroker, that most of us will not be building.

I think the best defence we have out there, is the cam saver lifters..........and only time will tell how they work!!!!

the other route that seams to be working, is stock cam/springs... stroker.


Flash

[Chris]

I think the best defence we have out there, is the cam saver lifters..........and only time will tell how they work!!!!

the other route that seams to be working, is stock cam/springs... stroker.


Flash

Guess I'll add the cam saver's to the "wish list"...lol Anyone know of a decent place to score some, or a part number to search for?

I have been going back and forth between the aftermarket "big" cam and the stock cam/springs. I know I would save alot of money going with the aftermarket cam and would ensure better reliability, but I'm having a hard time convincing myself to do this. Kind of defeats the purpose of building a torque monster if your just gonna reuse the stock parts on it.

[Flash]

Here's the link that was given a page back............this is the company that make the lifters.........But i can't find then on the page!!!!!!

http://www.crower.com/misc/m_cat.shtml

[Chris]

Does the link do me any good if the lifters aren't there? LMAO...just kiddin... Thanks for the info, I'll search for em in there and see what I come up with.

[Flash]

Does the link do me any good if the lifters aren't there? LMAO...just kiddin... Thanks for the info, I'll search for em in there and see what I come up with.

Give a guy a pencil and paper!!!!!! And all he can do is chew on the eraser!

Flash

[Chris]

[John]

Here's the link that was given a page back............this is the company that make the lifters.........But i can't find then on the page!!!!!!

http://www.crower.com/misc/m_cat.shtml

Flash check the pages 140 - 155 and see the lifters.
John