New guy, looking for a little advise

[Backroads]

New guy here, So far I'm really enjoying the site, glad I found it!

So I've been reading and researching and learning all kinds of math I forgot since high school playing with stroker build options. I guess so far I'm good as far as info for the build, I just wanna get an idea of how these numbers are gonna play in the real world.

Going kind of by the 'from junker to stroker' build, using similar components with slight tweaking I've got this....

4.0 block, 258 crank and rods
sealed power 677P pistons
overbore .030 = bore of 3.905
leaving out some details (some stuff I left at home, numbers wise )

but after punching those rough numbers in the the SCR and DCR calculator I'm getting SCR of 9.2
DCR of 7.15

(thats using the comp cam on the calc for reference as I havent decided which cam to go with) Those numbers seem to be 'ok' with what little I know for running mid grade gas at close to sea level. I guess from there I need some help as to what i am overlooking, and what info I'm not understanding correctly. Thanks for the help and a chance to be a part of this group!

[Cheromaniac]

Sounds like you're trying to copy my build except for the cam. Just make sure you get uprated valve springs/retainers/locks to go with the higher lift cam. Which cam are you going to use anyway?
I have the stock cam (higher DCR) and I'm able to run the engine on 91 octane at sea level in mid-summer heat. Could use lower octane in the winter.

[Backroads]

Sounds like you're trying to copy my build except for the cam. Just make sure you get uprated valve springs/retainers/locks to go with the higher lift cam. Which cam are you going to use anyway?
I have the stock cam (higher DCR) and I'm able to run the engine on 91 octane at sea level in mid-summer heat. Could use lower octane in the winter.

I was 'semi' copying more so because you have all the numbers there, so I can work the equations and see what equals what. (hope you dont mind) Your build pretty much fits where I wanted to go with the project anyways.

As for the cam, I dont know pretty undecided/uneducated. I wouldnt have a problem sticking with stock cam and valvetrain for the time being. Is there a lot of noticeable difference staying stock?

I still have a lot to learn so thanks for replying and helping me out!

[Cheromaniac]

As for the cam, I dont know pretty undecided/uneducated. I wouldnt have a problem sticking with stock cam and valvetrain for the time being. Is there a lot of noticeable difference staying stock?

Hardly any actually. I initially built my stroker with the Crane 753905 cam but when I had the cam/lifter failure after 34k miles, I threw the old stock cam back in with new lifters and the original stock valve springs. WOT acceleration with the stock cam is only marginally slower and the difference is so small I didn't feel it by the SOTP. Paradoxically, part-throttle response is better with the stock cam so I don't miss the Crane cam at all. Since I went back to stock valve springs and added Yella Terra roller rockers, the mild valvetrain ticking noise that I used to have disappeared altogether and the engine sounds sweeter.
For me, the small performance trade-off in favor of a quiet valvetrain and long-term reliability (fingers crossed) was definitely worth it.

[Backroads]

As for the cam, I dont know pretty undecided/uneducated. I wouldnt have a problem sticking with stock cam and valvetrain for the time being. Is there a lot of noticeable difference staying stock?

Hardly any actually. I initially built my stroker with the Crane 753905 cam but when I had the cam/lifter failure after 34k miles, I threw the old stock cam back in with new lifters and the original stock valve springs. WOT acceleration with the stock cam is only marginally slower and the difference is so small I didn't feel it by the SOTP. Paradoxically, part-throttle response is better with the stock cam so I don't miss the Crane cam at all. Since I went back to stock valve springs and added Yella Terra roller rockers, the mild valvetrain ticking noise that I used to have disappeared altogether and the engine sounds sweeter.
For me, the small performance trade-off in favor of a quiet valvetrain and long-term reliability (fingers crossed) was definitely worth it.

Sounds good to me, Just one more question before I get back into my research for the time being (picking up a short block 4.0 this weekend for $75, and the project begins!)

I noticed on your build you had a quench of .088. And in the article you refer to in your FAQ's about quench, it says to try and start with a quench of around .040 for a street driven car with auto (me) any negatives to actual quench being more than twice that?

and for instance say I need to have the block decked a tad, well say .020 for even numbers sake, that drops my deck height to 9.433, ending me with a quench of .068,(using a .043 thickness head gasket) but thats also going to raise compression right? what would be the way to solve an issue like that? add more CC to the pistons themselves?

[John]

"and for instance say I need to have the block decked a tad, well say .020 for even numbers sake, that drops my deck height to 9.433, ending me with a quench of .068,(using a .043 thickness head gasket) but thats also going to raise compression right? what would be the way to solve an issue like that? add more CC to the pistons themselves?"

Larger piston dish by selection or machining, Around a cc increase can be brought into play by cleaning and polishing the combustion chamber and unshrouding the exhaust valves. Custom pistons can be spec.d with a large range of cc sizing.
John

[Cheromaniac]

I noticed on your build you had a quench of .088. And in the article you refer to in your FAQ's about quench, it says to try and start with a quench of around .040 for a street driven car with auto (me) any negatives to actual quench being more than twice that?

No. I'm able to run 91 octane with impunity and in the cooler months, a 50/50 mix of 87 and 91 isn't a problem. A lower quench would allow you to run a lower grade of fuel if you kept the CR the same

and for instance say I need to have the block decked a tad, well say .020 for even numbers sake, that drops my deck height to 9.433, ending me with a quench of .068,(using a .043 thickness head gasket) but thats also going to raise compression right? what would be the way to solve an issue like that? add more CC to the pistons themselves?

Yes. Shaving 0.020" from the block would reduce the combustion volume by 4cc so if you wanted to keep the CR as it was before, you'd need to add 4cc to the piston dish volume (or share it with the combustion chamber volume).