New 4.6L stroker build

[CobraMarty]

Thanks, I'm going to try ATI again this week.

[Spliffotticle]

Out of curiosity, is this header the kind with the convoluted expansion links on the outer pipes? or is it a nicer, solid-type one? I bought and never tried the prior because when I got it, I was concerned with added turbulence and noise.

Feels good so far. When it gets hot I can really feel the fan clutch drag it down. 3.55s and 31" tires aren't helping it. Might try using a plastic mustang fan and clutch for that.. if that doesn't work I'll try another stock efan.
Still have the lean first cold start issue and chasing the exhaust leak. I have been to two exhaust shops and they say there is no leak. Stuffing the exhaust pipe sounds doesn't show any hissing sound. But it still sounds like a leak. Maybe the header sounds like this. I don't know.

I'm installing 4.11s and a truetrac in the rear next week.

[SilverXJ]

Its a Doug Thorley coated header (coated by Calico), no expansion links.

Oh and on the exhaust leak, there wasn't one. Its just the way it sounds. I went over it with a fine tooth comb and had another mechanic I sometimes help take a look and an exhaust shop take a look.

[shawnxj]

so how much wear did your timing cover have from the solid pin and how many miles did you have before the swap?

[dwg86]

I would think a solid pin would have less wear than a springpushing a pin against the timing cover...hmmm

[SilverXJ]

I didn't check the cam end play before I removed the cam. I didn't want to pull the oil pan at that time. I should have just drilled a hole in the timing cover and set the dial indicator up on the cam cog through that hole. Hindsight is 20/20. However, I did notice a little wear on the timing cover, but it could have just been from the two surfaces making. I could stick the cam in another block with the timing cover, but I am fairly certain that dimensions between two blocks will be different enough not to get a accurate measurement.

I put 5 gallons of 89 octane in it yesterday. While I didn't get it on it very hard I did do some moderate acceleration and noticed no pinging.

[I6FAN]

Silver, when you spoke with Mike Jones what was his opinion of the narrow vs. wide cam lobes?

[CobraMarty]

89 octane and your CPD mod for timing advance and your 'tuned' ecu for timing advance and no Pinging. That's great, don't these engines ever detonate due to timing? (not counting high CR, lean AFR, overheating, etc).

[SilverXJ]

Silver, when you spoke with Mike Jones what was his opinion of the narrow vs. wide cam lobes?

He said that the wider cam lobe is better for preventing wear. Flat tappet cams are ground on a taper and the lifter was a slight dome to it to promote rotation of the lifter. The lifter will not ride on the whole width of the lobe, except maybe at max lift looking at the pattern. With the wider lobe that taper can be more spread out and the lifter can have a bit larger contact area and still rotate.

That's great, don't these engines ever detonate due to timing?

Mine pinged a bit under a medium load around 3k rpm, like driving up a hill. That was when it was stock with just a CAI and 60mm throttle body. That was with 87 octane. I wasn't going to put 89, 91 or 93 in a stock 4.0l.

[MrNoBody]

Great persistence!!! You're really vested in that motor! You'll not have the previous problems associated with the cam bearings since installing the thrust plate. I have found the aftermarket thrust spring to be much weaker than the factory after it has been warmed a few times. Obvious change in spring wire material. Just FYI the smaller oil hole in the side of lifter is used to restrict both oil in and out and that oil pressure from pushrod seat to rocker is only bled during approximate max lift. I had the same cam walk related knock and did not diagnose it until I cut the top off the valve cover and used a small tube scope down each push-rod hole while motor was running. The knock was actually created at the rear of camshaft where it clanged into steel expansion plug and echoed throughout the inside of the bell-housing. I simply recessed the plug to apply more pressure on thrust pin spring - you might have thought the FSM would specify a depth. Great work and persistence!

[SilverXJ]

The knock was actually created at the rear of camshaft where it clanged into steel expansion plug and echoed throughout the inside of the bell-housing.

Even if the cam was walking it shouldn't be hitting the rear plug.

Just FYI the smaller oil hole in the side of lifter is used to restrict both oil in and out and that oil pressure from pushrod seat

Which hole? What meters/restricts oil to the top end is the small disc under the pushrod seat.

[MrNoBody]

The knock was actually created at the rear of camshaft where it clanged into steel expansion plug and echoed throughout the inside of the bell-housing.

Even if the cam was walking it shouldn't be hitting the rear plug.

Just FYI the smaller oil hole in the side of lifter is used to restrict both oil in and out and that oil pressure from pushrod seat

Which hole? What meters/restricts oil to the top end is the small disc under the pushrod seat.

Unfortunately, the back of the cam does make contact.

Yes, you are correct that the check disk/ball meters oil to the top end; however, the metering orifice(oil hole) located in the side of the lifter, meters the pressure in the lifter.

[SilverXJ]

Unfortunately, the back of the cam does make contact.

It should not. If it does there is a problem.

The hole in the side of the lifter is too large to meter anything.

[college_kid]

Silver, you have the patience of Job! I just read all 41 pages, and I am happy to read that you finally got a stroker that works. As for the cam thrust plate, do you have manufacturer and PN for that item? I didnt see it in the thread. If you had that much trouble with cam walk, I definitely want to get in front of any potential problems with my build. Thanks
Matt

[SilverXJ]

Its an OEM part. Usually comes with the block. I only know its available from Mopar.