Cybershots 4.7L Stroker build up thread

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Hello everybody

few weeks agoo I asked here for help to get stroker project started. http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... =15&t=2293
Well what sould I say, The stroker is runing since 3 days and I have 400 Km on the clock. Everything seams to be ok and only miner bugs to fix. I posted the build up in an local forum and I thought it might be interesting here as well!

An very big THANK YOU to Cheromaniac which was consulting me during the entier build up !!!!! You have been a big help for me!!!



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( I hope you don't mint that I just copy it here and the threat initialy was for guys which don't know much about strokers, which is oviously not the case here )
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Hello together

Now it is time to show my new project. To build up an 4,7 L stroker engine from the scratch.

Before I start with my build up thread, which was more or less my diary, I should broadly explain to those who don't know what a stroker means.

The 242 engine with 4.0l cylinder capacity has been used in many jeeps from the early 80's till 2006.
There was as well an 258 engine with the not that common 4.2L cylinder capacity and very similar hardware to the 4.0L
The simple idea is to use the crankshaft from the 4.2 liter engine and with 0.060" oversize forged piston with 22cc dish you end up with 4.7 Liter.
Sound easy but it's not.
The engine is called stroker because the biggest increase of torque and horsepower comes from the longer stroke way.



I decided to go for the 4.7 liter with this basic recipe

Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
Jeep 4.0L 6.125" rods
Keith-Black Silvolite UEM-IC944 +0.060" bore pistons
9.6:1 CR
CompCams 68-231-4 206/214 degree camshaft
CNC ported HO 1.91"/1.50" cylinder head
Mill block deck 0.020"
Mopar/Victor 0.043" head gasket
0.051" quench height
65mm over bore TB
Accel 26lb/hr injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines.
Target is 275hp @ 4900rpm, 333lbft @ 3500rpm (Stock is 190 HP and 225 lbft) This would be an increase of 85 HP and more important ca.110lbft
The 4.7L is an "torque monster"

The project last a wile due to many reasons. I want to make most of the things myself and I expected many difficulties till the engine runs as I like it to run.
3-4 months sound realistic. Due to this reason I decided to build it up on an junk yard block and swap it when it is ready and completed.

I got 7 Performance as engine mechanics for the assembly and setup.

The stroker will be build in phases:

Phase I = Planing and calculations for the setup
Phase II = Collection of all Parts
Phase III= Assembly and engine swap and enging mapping at the dyno jet
Phase IV= Break in time, trouble shooting, checking

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Everything starts with the searching for the right engine block. It took me days rounding in the junk yards till I found here the right fitting Block in good condition ( as fare as I can call this good condition).



No cracks, hits from accident and all mounts are seams to be ok.







Important to have the same casting nr. 53010449AA. The block I found has 53010449 without the AA but it seams that this is not an issue.

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After finding the Block I had a very hard time finding a head in good condition and fitting to my XJ

Most of the heads in good condition would just be sold with a working engine for 3500 to 5500AED but I need just the casted part and no valves or rockers etc.

The casting nr for my XJ is 0331 but this head is well knowen for his weakness and many heads got a crack in the center between cylinder 3-4.

After consultion Dino, I was looking for the more resilient head with the casting nr 0630 from '97-'99 and luckily i got one for a decent price. This might give me some hassle later with the connection to the manifold and headers but there is no alternative. Even if I would like to tale the weak 0331 head, there is non on the market in Abu Dhabi.

Costs so fare:
Block 450 AED
Head 350 AED
Throtle body 100 AED

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Parts List

Needed to order from the USA:

6 Pistons with rings: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-IC944KTM-060
Keith Black/KB Pistons IC944-060 with rings

1 Camshaft: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-68-231-4/
COMP Cams 68-231-4

12 Valve springs: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-5249464/
Mopar Performance P5249464

12 Valve spring retainers: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4452032/
Mopar Performance P4452032

12 Valve keepers: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4529218/
Mopar Performance P4529218

6 Injectors: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-150824/
ACCEL 150824 - ACCEL Fuel Injectors

1 Flowkooler water pump: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRA-1747/
FlowKooler 1747

1 JET 180* thermostat: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JET-10170/
JET Performance 10170

12 Roller Rockers. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CSP-S40196/
Harland Sharp S40196

12 connecting rod bolts: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-112-6001/
ARP 112-6001 - ARP High Performance Connecting Rod Bolt Kits

And little extra power
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Will see that later


To get here from UAE:

- Block 2000/2001 Casting No. 53010449AA
- Cylinder head from 2002/2006 Wrangler with TUPY stamp, or with casting # 0630
- Oil Pan
- Valve cover
- Throttle body
- crank shaft 258 - 4.2 liter with 12 counter weights


For the cylinder head (all from Mopar):
1) 6 VALVE, Intake
2) 6 SEAL, Valve Guide intake
3) 6 VALVE, Exhaust
4) 6 SEAL, Valve Guide exhaust
5) !!No PIVOT, for the Rocker Arm and NO BRIDGE, for the Rocker Arm!!
6) 12 Tappet, Valve
7) 12 Pushrods, Valve (standard 4,0L?)
8) 1 Gasket, Valve Cover
9) 1 Gasket, Cylinder Head

For crank and Pistons (all from Mopar):
10) 12 Main Bearing, Crankshaft (12 pieces each half round) Picture 1
11) 1 Thrust Bearing,Crankshaft
12) 12 Bearing, Connecting Rod & 6 Rods (12 pieces each half round)
13) Set of 5 Bearing, Camshaft
14) 1Gasket, Manifold
15) 1 GEAR, Crankshaft
16) 1 SLINGER, Oil Slinger next to Gear
17) 1Bearing, Crankshaft Pilot
18) 1 timing chain and sprockets
19) 1 Gasket & Seal Kit, Timing

Block and accessories (all from Mopar)::
20) 1Gasket Set, Oil Pan
21) 1Filter, Engine Oil
22) 1Oilpump
XX) 6 freeze plugs


Problems remain to solve:
1, Push rod lengths ?
2, injectors plug converter
3, screw with trust splint for cam shaft http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=det ... catId=7758


Machine works to do at the block and head:


Block:
1. hot tank or oven bake to clean, shot blast, and mag block
2. shot blast.
3. magnaflux. (check for cracks)
4. line hone the main bearing bores if needed.
5. bore and hone to desired size.
6. check deck for flatness if not milling, if milling tell them how much.
7. Install cam bearings.
8. install new freeze plugs


Crank:
1. hot tank or oven bake if dirty.
2. grind mains and rods to desired size, or offset grind if desired.
2a. Chamfer oil holes if desired.
3. spin balance.


rods:
1. hot tank or oven bake if dirty.
2. shot peen if desired.
3. check for straightness.
4. install rod bolts if desired.
5. resize bearing journals.
6. weight balance.
7. install pistons.


Head:
1. hot tank or oven bake if dirty and shot blast.
2. magnaflux head.
3. port and polish.
4. valve job.
4A. Install new seats if needed.
5. check for flatness.
6. mill head if desired.
7. assemble with new springs, retainers, and keepers.


Estimated time to get all parts is 4-5 weeks

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Here are most of the parts that I could buy here in the UAE. Decider to go for sealed power products. They have good reputation from stroker builder.

Missing is:
- intake valve
- rod bearing
- cam bold with spring and trust pin

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Here an other big step done! The crank shaft arrived and I am unbelievable lucky. The crank is brand new. just to remember the 258 crank has been produced till 1990! New cranks are very rare!





Lets talk a little bit about cranks.

Here you can see both version. The bigger one has 12 counterweights and the smaller one has 4 counterweights. Both will fit to the standard 4.0L Jeep engine. In my engine I will put the bigger 12 counterweights crank for several reasons. What are the differences in performance? Well, the crank with 4 weights is 10 kg lighter and during acceleration from 900 rpm to the max of 5.500 rpm the lighter crank has an clear advantage. In the 1/4 mile race the 4 counterweight crank will always win. But if the crank has his speed, lets say 2500-3500 rpm and you go up the dune and the gravity and the sand try to slow down the engine/car, the 10kg rotating mass is helping because it just won't stop and push the piston to the next ignition, to the next, to the next and bring you over the dune where the 4 counter weight one will lose the rpm faster and therewith the torque.
Second reason for me was that the 12 counterweight is the more rigged version. Both can handle the power of the stroker, but I have some ideas for a later stage.

This is the 258 4.2L crank. The most important part for the stroker build up receipt!

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Here few pictures from the Keith-Black Silvolite UEM-IC944 +0.060" bore pistons

These pistons are forged








THERE IS ONLY ONE DISCRIPTION FOR THIS PISTON

AUTOMOTIVE PORN

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This is what's left from the block, if you bore a 4.7 L stroker

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Here a good picture to see the difference before and after the bore of the cylinder.

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After the boer the cylinder needs a special cross grinding to give the best surface for the oil





Here you can clealy see the difference in the cylinder wall surface before and after cross grinding.

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Here some more pics from the installed crank. The crank shall free and easy turn without the rods and pistons.
The regrinding for the main bearing (at crank side) shall help to get this result.

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Small delay caused by the KB piston! They won't fit to the 4.0 connection rods without modification.
Small job actually, but the rods needs to be rebalanced to the equal weight! Took me 2 days to find a balance which is suitable for this.

Here the result:












Saturday the assemblage can start!

Old weight was 698 gram
New weight is 691 gram

So my jeep saved as well 6x7g= 42gram in total

I balanced every part up to 0,1 g exactly simular to get the engine a extra smooth run and to get it PERFECT

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Here you can see the finished piston / rod connection.

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The block came on the assembling bracket and got cleaned. Did not expect this to take so long. The block got cleaned for several hours / days, over and over again.

First with the cemical cleaning with industrial special cleaners and then with the thread brush





This was before.
Here you see all the black stuff below the crank






That is the result after 19 hours of cleaning!






It looks like a new block now!!!

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What shall I say? The Pistons are in!!





4.7 Liter long stroke volume from 1 cylinder