If it weren't for the low mileage part I would say turd. I would go for it. It's kind of a pain but as long as you have the engine out and on the stand then cam it while it's still possible. As far as belts go, my Eagle has an air conditioning pump that I won't touch so I'll go against the norm and V-belt my stroker. That's literally the only thing keeping me on V-belts. Tear the head apart, dip it in caustic and the next day key in a puffball brush for the drill and some small cup-brushes for the dremel, clean up the head and paint it.
Be gone vile rust particles!
Also, watch out for dust. The swap itself isn't hard but it's definitely a process thing. Especially on an older block where the head bolts are probably smaller than the Renix or HO heads expect. Digging out the valve compressor tool and adjusting it for these tiny springs is maddening. I have some old Snap-On device that resembles a fugly C clamp and it's annoying. I go back and forth between Ford and American heads so the surface pieces are never convenient or correct when I need it. I'm lazy. The stock AM springs will bind when they've been seated for a while and it's hard to separate the valves from the retainers without making the keepers fly. Close the door and wear goggles. :/ I usually spin my valves against sandpaper with a noisy Milwaukee drill to clean out the carbon. Earplugs are great.
Reseat the valves and lap them the old way with the a cute little suction cup tool you get at NAPA for $5. It takes a while but compared to shipping the whole thing off for a reman, I prefer this. Two oil based grits give a better finish than the single tube of water based Permatex. The rest is just teardown, clean and swap. Mind the torque specs.