In topic:  Craigslist guy right?,  aaronkeiser wrote:

Oh yes, the good old craigslist. Some of those people don't have a dam clue what they have. I've sold things on CL and told interested buyers the truth about my parts going into there vehicles of different years. Telling them it won't fit because of spline counts. People are always amazed when I tell them this. There like "WOW! thanks for being honest with me...you could have lied to me and i would have bought it" but thats just not me and i would've felt like shat if i did.

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In topic:  throttle body size,  aaronkeiser wrote:

I should point out that i recently went from Double platinum NGK plugs to some Champion RC9's and it made my ping go away completely and made my sensitive throttle much more manageable.

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In topic:  how fast are yall's strokers?,  aaronkeiser wrote:

I haven't dyno'd or timed it BUT i do have some info to go along with my butt dyno...which is very satisfied.

First my dad drove my jeep for years with the stock 4.0 until he gave it to me when I got my license ...he helped me through the whole build all the way till it was back on the road broken in...then he drove it and his words were "SHIT AARON!...that thing feels like we just swaped a fresh V8!"

also two of my buddies from my job...on two different occasions...said "man this thing has some F'n torque!" i didn't ask them if it did, they just came out and said it.

Another interesting fact is that I haven't experienced WOT in 2'd gear yet because last time I tried I almost ripped the rear driveshaft out

On rainy days I should probably pray to the man up stairs cuz i've got to much power for my own good and not enough brakes for my own safety

I should also mention its a 91 YJ, DD, on 37" MTR's with 5.13's

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In topic:  throttle body size,  aaronkeiser wrote:

I'm running the 63mm TB from Leigh performance and my throttle is sensitive as hell! Plus its got a granny low 4 speed. It's nothing i haven't been able to learn but every time a new person drives my jeep they are all over the place with the brake-throttle-and gas

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In topic:  4.5 Stroker I love it but want more power....,  aaronkeiser wrote:

Well if your compression ratio is very close to stock why not add a supercharger...? If you did it eat V8's for breakfast

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In topic:  jeep bog off the line,  aaronkeiser wrote:

I'm having this same problem...it idles but it doesn't seem like a strong idle. It bogs up til about 1500-2000 then starts to run strong. If I accelerate hard it smells like cat converter. Cruizing doesn't really smell but if I Compression brake it smells like "SHITE". Kind of gives me a head ache while driving around town. I'm almost certain it's running rich since it's got 24lb. injectors and i've never messed with the map. Now the real question is who sells a cheap device that I can check my air fuel ratio???? I need help! Rubicon's next month!!!

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In topic:  which clutch?,  aaronkeiser wrote:

...also CF clutches are expensive...I just put a OEM Luk clutch/pressure plate behind my stroker and its doing great. Mind you it isn't the factory 5 speed (It's a NP435) but the principal is the same...They slip a little during breakin but then grab nicely after breakin...atleast good enough for me.

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In topic:  About to install my MAP adjuster but...,  aaronkeiser wrote:

So I guess with my setup its probably best to do is measure what my AFR is and adjust...What should I do to go about setting the voltage? Do I need any special tools...if so how much would they cost for a cheap one?

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In topic:  cam question,  aaronkeiser wrote:

Seems like all these cams you've stated will work but it's a matter of what your rig is being built for. Are you building this motor street jeep or offroad jeep or both? I was under the impression that if you have a static compression of 9.2 or less it's cool to use the stock 4.0 cam but any higher and it will ping under heavy load. Also depending on what block you have will tell what cams you can use of cant use. Like the older style blocks cant run the newer style camshaft which was built for more low end grunt. Give some more details and we can see what's best for you.

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In topic:  About to install my MAP adjuster but...,  aaronkeiser wrote:

I don't have anyway of seeing my AFR...sorry im cheap Can anyone suggest a voltage range to set the MAP too? It's a 91 wrangler OB1 4.6 stroker, 24# ford injectors, cammed, .43 HG, 63mm TB, 99+ intake. I do understand that this is not the best remedy but I seems to be rich or should I just leave it. I haven't really been able to drive my new motor too hard so I cant say if run's right at high rpm. What did you guys set your MAP voltage to?

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In topic:  Engine Balancing,  aaronkeiser wrote:

For my motor I just weight balanced the piston/rods/rod bolts and it spins up nice with no vibrations.

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In topic:  Timing/vacuum lines,  aaronkeiser wrote:

I stuck a timing light to it today and it was around 12 or so...does that sound about right? I've been driving this motor around for awhile and im about to start the "tuning" part. I have an adjustable MAP that I still must put in. Hopefully this is all I need to pass the CA smog test and have a powerful engine.

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In topic:  Timing/vacuum lines,  aaronkeiser wrote:

I've googled the jeep 4.0 timing but all everyone says is it's nonadjustable which I know BUT I have an adjustable CPS. How do I know if I got the senser in right. It runs but I'd like to check it with a timing light and get the timing right on...Anybody?

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In topic:  Late model intake swap????,  aaronkeiser wrote:

You know whats funny? Mgardiner1 said he ended up with a 95" belt and he basically is running the same stuff as me yet it still took me 3 trips plus my dad 2 trips to the parts store to get the right belt.

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In topic:  Timing/vacuum lines,  aaronkeiser wrote:

I just fired up my stroker 2 days ago and broke in the cam. Everything went smoothly but I had a quick question. When I did this stroker I put in a np435 transmission using the CJ belhousing, so I had to adapt the CPS to the belhousing. My question is what should the timing be on a 4.0 inline six? I ask because I'm not sure we got the sensor in there dead on balls accurate. If anyone cares the throttle response from the bored TB/spacer/and 99 intake is awesome! Also does anyone have have a diagram for all the vacuum lines for the motor. I feel like i have most of them right but possibly one might be wrong. Id show pictures but for some reason I cant paste into these text boxes.

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In topic:  New 4.6L stroker build,  aaronkeiser wrote:

I agree, theres no such thing as to many images, the builds without images are the boring ones IMO. I tried to start my own Engine build or should I say drivetrain swap on "Projects" but I cant paste pictures into the text box . If I cant show pictures I figure I won't waste your guys time.

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In topic:  Intake system,  aaronkeiser wrote:

I'm very interested in what Mgardiner1 said. I'm looking for a CA legal cone filter intake that crosses over to the other side of the engine away from the exhaust. I figure that if I'm going to spend $ on an intake I might as well get one I'll never have to remove except for maintenance not for the smog nazies. So my Q would be who sells the cheapest CARB certified air intake for a YJ...that crosses over to the other side of the engine. I should also say im doing this because my factory air box doesn't fit anymore because I'm running the newer style intake and PS pump which sticks out father than the original.

Another thing I realized with my YJ are the TRUE restrictions of the factory air box. Yes it does use the paper filters and it has that cone thing on the front closest to the radiator BUT...anyone ever look inside the outlet on the top of the air box? My YJ air box necks down to about 40mm! My mag light handle has an almost snug fit inside of it. I remember reading a yahoo strokers email saying that we should put back on our stock airboxes because while they don't suck more air, they do suck cooler air. I do agree with this but I feel an aftermarket intake with a plastic tube/cone filter with a protective cover around the filter that is CARB certified that crosses over the engine is the best intake. kind of like the Banks Ram Air one but without the price tag. By doing this you eliminate the restriction and by routing it as far from the header as possible it will have the best chance from not getting heat soaked. I did run a cheap Evilbay cone filter for awhile and nothing changed performance wise except for the sometimes cool new whisle from my airaid TB spacer. I would be fine just changing stuff for the smog nazies but my factory box doesn't fit anymore so I need something new.

What do you guys think?

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In topic:  My 1979 Jeep CJ5,  aaronkeiser wrote:

Pretty sick...just don't leave that thing in the garage, drive the sh** out of it. One thing I've learned over the years is cars/truck or anything driveable for that matter is ment to be driven, not collect dust in a garage somewhere.

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In topic:  Advance or retard cam?,  aaronkeiser wrote:

When I installed my cam from Elgin with the non adjustable timing set it was retarded about 4 degrees. Got an 4 degree's offset keyway and ran it straight up. I went straight up because i thought maybe the computer wouldn't like that and the people who designed the cam probably know more about cams than I will ever know.

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In topic:  Jeep stroker for 1936 Dodge Sedan,  aaronkeiser wrote:

If it was me id find a different rear axle like an Isuzu D44 since its narrow and has disc brakes or the 8.8 or the 9" but I suppose if your on a tight budget it's probably the best thing for your situation. If I breaks you'll know what to do.

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In topic:  4.0 header cracking answer,  aaronkeiser wrote:

After I tore down my motor in my YJ it was no surprise that the header was cracked at pretty much every joint. I bought a new APN header to go with the new stroker and just yesterday I had a muffler shop chop off the 2.25 collector and weld on a nicer 2.5. While I was there he told me the reason the jeep headers crack so much is because of torque. The header is so stiff and the exhaust pipe it's bolted to is also very stiff that under hard throttle it flexes the header causing it to crack. He suggested, from is experience that I cut some of the welds on the header flange to help relieve the tension. Possibly the reason I just stated and heating and cooling would cause the stock headers or any header to crack over time. Possibly building these engines to produce even more torque isn't helping either.

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In topic:  parts for '99-newer intake upgrade,  aaronkeiser wrote:

In case some didn't see my wanted ad, I am interested in PS pump, bracket, and lines

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In topic:  parts for '99-newer intake upgrade,  aaronkeiser wrote:

When I was test fitting my 99+ intake and APN header there was some clearance issues, namely the #6 header tube and also where the intake and header come together on the head, but like you guys said nothing a little grinding wouldn't do.

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In topic:  Stock cam question,  aaronkeiser wrote:

So your saying if I have an early block, which is what I have, I cant used the newed style stock cam?

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In topic:  Stock cam question,  aaronkeiser wrote:

Im set on running a stock cam and im sure I want the 96+ cam. Im building a 91 XJ motor thats going into a 91 YJ. Im buying from Elgin and I noticed they had two different part numbers for the newer 96+ cams. One that goes from 96-98 and the other is from 99-04. Which one do I go with? I though I remembered someone saying they have compatability issues in different blocks. Can anyone shed some light?

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In topic:  Leaf Springs,  aaronkeiser wrote:

I've been running the stock springs, shocks, bushings, and rear shackles on my 91 YJ since it was born and you can tell. Basically they have seen better days and need to be replaced. The fronts are flat because of the Inline 6 and winch and the rears have good arch but have a broken spring clamp. When I do this I want to do all rear HD OEM leafs all the way around, shocks, poly bushing, greasable shackles. I guess I could go to the jeep junkyard and pay for some old used rears and freshen them up, but sometimes those jeep only places price like the dealer. I have more time then money so good used leafs may be my way to go. The bushings, shackles, and shocks I'd like new. Can you guys point me in the right direction to pick up some of this stuff cheap. What do you think I should do?

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In topic:  Head conundrum.. used head vs. new bare casting,  aaronkeiser wrote:

sorry I got off topic, I just wanted to share how cheap it was to fix. Used belts? No, I bought all new belts. We didn't use a reman water pump, it was brand new as well. As for head choice, I think it's obvious the head you already have is what you should use.

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In topic:  Head conundrum.. used head vs. new bare casting,  aaronkeiser wrote:

Yeah I agree, I just helped raplace a water pump in my friends 98 camry. Reman water pump was 25$ and a brand spanking new one was 35$...I also replaced the timing belt, power steering belt, and AC alternater belt for another 30$. I replaced 3 belts and a water pump for 65$...Idk about you but thats a steal. I myself have no problem with used parts...psh pretty much all my YJ's swap parts are used and work great.

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In topic:  Trucks! Cheep Cherokee Episodes.,  aaronkeiser wrote:

OOhhh, my mistake. I don't know why I didn't click the first link. Yeah the vids work fine for me. Say, is there a place where you can watch all the trucks episodes? I've tried a couple times and i just couldn't find anywhere. Like the old truck show when they did project crazy horse with the bronco. That was sweet!

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In topic:  Trucks! Cheep Cherokee Episodes.,  aaronkeiser wrote:

I just looked up the YJ buildup and they swaped out the 258 for a chevy 350. The one I ment was the Truck Universe YJ buildup where they put new axels, lockers, orange paint and a stroker.

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In topic:  Trucks! Cheep Cherokee Episodes.,  aaronkeiser wrote:

I remember going to powerblock to try and watch the YJ buildup they did with the golen stroker and I couldn't get the vids to play. Bascially I updated my flash then I clicked the link and it did bring me to the powerblock website with the episode but there was nothing to click on to start the episode. No "click here to watch" or anything. What did you guys do?

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In topic:  Head conundrum.. used head vs. new bare casting,  aaronkeiser wrote:

hmm thats a good question. I love new parts but i also like money in my pocket. If it was me id keep the old head if its in good condition and work off of it since you wouldn't have to buy new valves unless they we're burnt or just no good. But you might need to resurface it which is like...what 60-70$(atleast thats what carquest charged me) If you got the new head you'd probably want new valves which cost $. So its new head with new valves or old head with resurfacing. Do new casting usually need resurfacing? It's up to you...do you want to go the extra mile and have a brand new head or are you comfortable with old refurbished stuff?

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In topic:  Injectors,  aaronkeiser wrote:

So If im running 39 psi fuel pump with 24lb ford injectors, what would the voltage be on my adjustable map sensor? I know its hard to say but what would be the range.

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In topic:  Thermostat,  aaronkeiser wrote:

What john just said is a reason why I asked about thermostats. When does the computer stop adjusting air/fuel/ timing at a certain temp? I would be happy to find out if the computer believes 180 is fully warmed up. What say you?

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In topic:  Thermostat,  aaronkeiser wrote:

Ok thats what I was thinking. I had a problem not to long ago with my thermostat where it would stick closed and the temp would go up to almost the red then plummet back to normal. Obviously the thermo was sticking closed and a new ones fixed this problem. My dad told me of these certain thermostats...i forget the name...where they actually stick open if they ever fail...not closed like the stock replacements do. Do you guys recall who sells them. I thought I may have seen them on summit but they only came in 160 and 180.

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In topic:  Gradon's Stroker Project,  aaronkeiser wrote:

Is it possible to run the ones that came off the head in the first place. Then after you get the motor running right you could make the switch so it hurts less on the bank account. All they guys on hear say they are a sinch to install.

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In topic:  Thermostat,  aaronkeiser wrote:

Ok so that clears up ways to help prim up your cooling system but what about the stock thermostat temp (195). How many people run this thermostat in their stroker? It seems like if you run a 180 thermostat that you couldn't dial in the fuel as good.

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In topic:  Exhaust,  aaronkeiser wrote:

Well right now im running the stock exhaust on my 91 wrangler 4.0 with high flow cat and a cheap cherrybomb turbo muffler. It's quiet when cruizing around but if you get on it you can hear it. After wheeling season this year I'll tear into my jeep to put in the new stroker I plan on welding a 2.5in collector on my APN header and run 2.5 all the way through with a catco cat and flowmaster. Since I live in California I'm defiantly going to keep the cat and O2. Plus I do like to wheel my jeep and not smell all that exhaust. You don't have to have an 02 senser but it will run like crap and give you 'Check engine' light. My dads 68 ford pickup with a BB 460 has no cat and let me tell you...that thing is the epitome of 'gross polluter' Everyone behind him on the trail is like "god dam that thing smells" I don't think its worth getting rid of a cat unless is a race car. I believe thats why cat companies make "high flow" cats so you CAN have both, high flow and a working cat.

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In topic:  Thermostat,  aaronkeiser wrote:

I'm in the home stretch collecting my parts and information. When it comes to the thermostat I know if you put in a cooler thermo it will help ping. I'm wondering if its really that important to run a cooler thermo when the stock motor was ment to run at 200ish degrees. What im saying is if you have no cooling problems can you just stick with the stock thermo? That way you won't have to mess with the wiring to make you engine run right with the lower degree thermo.

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In topic:  My van,  aaronkeiser wrote:

As some like to say..."what ah burn". I don't know what its like to see my vehicle burn up 'knock on wood' but i know it defiantly sucks. Couple weeks after my dad did a BB460 motor in his 68 pickup, the JC whitney cruize control wire burnt on the exhaust manifold which burnt through the fuel line to the carb which then spilled raw gas on an open flame, basically making the truck go up inflames. He pulled into the middle of the road to avoid catching the local trees on fire and called 911. It raged on fire for a good 1:30 seconds until some guys drove by and and helped put it out. Then ten minutes later the fire department showed up.

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In topic:  uni-frame tweak. how to tell if unibody fame is bad?,  aaronkeiser wrote:

Yeah I'd like to see it. I remember on TRUCKS! they had a yj build up and Truck Universe had a Jeep yj buildup wear i think they put a golen stroker in it.

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In topic:  KB pistons,  aaronkeiser wrote:

Yeah I'd wait on that pistons before you bore. It would probably work out fine but If you want it "dead on balls accurate"(My Cousin Vinny) You'd better wait.

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In topic:  HELP with stroker,  aaronkeiser wrote:

Whats this going into? Can you source parts from the vehicle the strokers going into while your slowly building this motor? It's hard to say what you need If we don't know if is carb or mpi. If its MPI it would probably need a map adjuster to get the fuel curve respectable. As for the boring I wouldn't just set in stone what bore you want. Find out what it needs. I doubt to many motors need to be bored 60 for a rebuild. Personally I wouldn't bore that far because it might run too warm but im sure many have had no problem with theirs. Although, many have started to figure out that your gauge may say its running at the right temp but the back cylinder will be running a tad bit warmer than all the rest, possibly causing some of the premature engine failures. My dad said he used to have a standard 350 chevy in his toyota land cruizer which ran great but it was old and he rebuild it using all the same parts except for new 60 pistons with rebuild kit. It ran great afterward except he was plagued with overheating on the trail that wasn't there before. You said you were going to get the leigh performance TB...me too...when I finally put down my jeep for the transplant but I think its a 63mm bore. Hope this helps, im sure others will chim in with their opinion.

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In topic:  Which Oils/Additives contain ZDDP,  aaronkeiser wrote:

I just went to my local GM dealer and bought some GM E.O.S. I had no idea it would be that much, but if it helps the motor live a very long time then im all for it. I bought 4-16oz bottles which ended up costing $82.66...about 20$ a bottle. 2 bottles for my motor, 2 for my dads 460. It's ok since the girl behind the counter was cute.

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In topic:  4.5l stroker build advice.,  aaronkeiser wrote:

As for porting your own head...yes it's worth it, even if its not full on ported. Obviously it will flow better but one of the main reasons I ported my head and smoothed everything out was so the exhaust runners and combustion chambers wouldn't have soot buildup later on. When I took apart my junkyard head it was really clogged in all the exhaust runners and it had 230,000 miles on it. As for doing it with a Dremel...totally possibly...thats what I used. I went through 4 grinding stones and I didn't really port...more like cleaned up everything and made it smooth (Intake runners, Exhaust runners, Valve seats, combustion chambers). Make sure you wear a face mask and goggles...you will be blowing black snot out of your noes for weeks not to mention all the stuff you inhale and get in you eye. You can buy a porting kit that comes with all you need which is probably a good idea since if you port your own head with the Dremel with griding stones, it will cost 5$ for each griding stone. Read up on the head porting topic on hear, it will show you what not to do. This the page where my head is pictured...its about half way down.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=84&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=10

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In topic:  4.0L in a 69 American,  aaronkeiser wrote:

Well we finally got the car home. It's the 69 American/Rambler. I'm confused what your suppose to call it. It looks just like Wrambers. It's a two door, blue body with white top. It's got the 232 I believe. It needs a head gasket or valve adjustment or both. I must say this car does have a nicely sized engine compartment (V8's). This cars in good shape for how old it is. It came with 7 boxes of extra parts from different color gauges, seat beats, emblems, trim peices. Tons of stuff.

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In topic:  Show your stuff...,  aaronkeiser wrote:

Thats one big ass jeep. I'm guessing when you blew up your old axel you replaced both front and rear with a 60 front/14 bolt rear? Defiantly a good looking jeep. How do the cops feel about your setup?

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In topic:  How to pick a cam,  aaronkeiser wrote:

It would also be nice to have a list of cams that would be more for crawlers, street rigs, and racers. Ones that work best with the fuel injection and ones that work better for carbs. I am building a rock crawler and one of the most important things you can have is the ability to let out the clutch, don't touch the gas, and be able to idle your way up very steep inclines, and over rocks. Because of this I'm going to stick with the 87-95 cam. I could go with the newer stock cam but it has less lift. Since I am adding many breathing mods to the motor I think its a good idea to stick with the higher lift stock cam with more lift. Plus I'd rather spend 60$ on a stock cam and reuse all the old parts then spend atleast 130$ for an aftermarket cam plus atleast 150$ for valve springs with retainers, locks, and all that other stuff that goes with switching cams.

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In topic:  Project: Hot Rod Cherokee,  aaronkeiser wrote:

Why not just cut a hole for the louvers, drill holes in the louver, then tighten it down to the hood with sheet metal screws? It would be easier and less time consuming then welding and all the smoothing of welds. Easier to clean up, paint, and make perdy.

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In topic:  4.6 Stroker build..pics included,  aaronkeiser wrote:

bummer man....I'd kill

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