In topic:  oil filter adapter,  Muad'Dib wrote:

T60 i believe...

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

SilverXJ wrote:
Depends what you want. all low end grunt, get the 68-231-4. Want more top end look for something with more duration. Its more like personal preference.

Actually im thinking also along the lines of cheap as possible... more like not having to replace the springs / retainers / locks.. Just a stock replacement really.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

any other suggestions?

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Anyone got anything about the stock cam replacement?

Would a Comp 68-231-4 be good for a rebuild, or something more like the Mopar Performance P4529228ab?

Or even a sealed power CS809?

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Any recommendations on a stock replacement cam?? Or know of one that is very good shape??

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In topic:  Head Gasket bore size,  Muad'Dib wrote:

That is normal and by design to help keep the proper flow of coolant.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Ive had to take a break from it all before i got too stressed. I even got sick for a few days with a sinus infection.

The first thing im going to do is budget out how much a stroker is going to cost me compared to just doing a rebuild. Then ill figure out what path im going to take. Either way the engine will be pulled and stripped.

I personally think two things are going on. The wrong size rod bearings were installed causing little to no oil pressure, and the cam is bad making a ton of top end noise.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Yeah something is seriously wrong with this build....

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Ill give that a shot when i get off work and see whats up.

Again with this being my first rebuild (albeit half ass) does the engine really not have much power when the rings are seating?

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

How could i check this? I had to take a break from it all before i smashed it all with a BFH.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

I guess ill have to pull it and do an inspection.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

IH 392 wrote:
How did you check the clearance between the pan and pickup screen?, if it's too close they can do stupid things like that.

I didnt .. i never have i guess i didnt know that i needed to...

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

I did use additive with the initial oil i put in the system.

I just changed the oil to 15w-40 CI-4, and it sounded really good on startup oil pressue was like 60... quickly dropped down to 40, and this time took a lot longer to get to 20. Idle stayed around 10, but slowly dropped down to 0. Im at my wits end.. i really needed this back on the road. A month without my daily driver has been hell, and now its probably going to be much longer without it.

The clackity clack i hear is pretty much non existant when oil pressure is at 40sih.. but once it drops to 20 and lower it just gets worse.. and will even do a light backfire if i rev it fairly quickly (not WOT .. just quick). Im starting to wonder if the cam is wiped... would the cam being bad cause low oil pressure? i thought only bad cam, main, or rod bearings would.

Im thinking of pulling the engine and dumping the non existant money i have into it. It would help if i had a Job, and i wasnt going to get evicted from my house!

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

I just checked the old rod bearings that i replaced... great! Once says STD, and the other says .001 .. but when i plastigauged, they squished to have ~.002 clearance.

My plan of action thus far is to replace my oil and filter. If the problem still exists, then ill drop the pan, and inspect the rod bearings while replacing the oil pump.


Did i mention this is my DD that has been down??

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

I started it up just now (the first time since last night) and she purred like a kitten. Oil pressure shot to 60, but after about 5-8 seconds went to 40 and slowly dropped down to 20. This was all while continuing the breakin process at 2500 RPMS. If i let it go down to even about 1100 RPMS, the pressue stays around 20, but if i let it drop down to idle pressure drops to 0. Another fact, when the oil pressure reaches 20, the chatter from the engine is just like what i would expect to hear in a engine that has 200,000 miles.

Maybe its the cheap ass wally world oil i used for breakin since i knew i had to change it right away anyway. IIRC, it was 5w-30. Should i change the oil and try something much heavier? like straight 30wt? or am i just screwed?

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

PU tube was very tight, and i didnt inspect the pump at all i just put it in... Well i take that back, i didnt open it up, but i did clean it with warm soapy water, and then with brake cleaner.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Im using the old one that was in the block that exploded. It is only a couple years old. I did replace the pick up tube though.

Yes i plastigauged all bearings, and they all came out to be in spec.

The only thing i dont have is the gasket for the Distributor... i wouldnt think that would cause low oil pressure.. maybe just a leak.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

sure was!

Started breakin... everything started great.. had to start and stop a few times to fix minor leaks.. but now im concearned. The oil pressure at 2000 RPMS is only like 18-20... when it drops down to idle it wants to drop to 0 and starts to knock a bit... And also on first start she purred like a kitten..... now she is starting to sound like an old jeep again..

I need to wait for it to cool down before i check it again... Got about another 10 mins left of break in.... hopefully it survives!!

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

The damn thing wont start... i put the damper on 0 and checked the rotor location and its pointing at #1...

While cranking it sounds like its trying to lightly backfire out of the intake....

I just replaced the CPS..

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

When it came off with the Converter, i just made sure it was lubed with tranny fluid, and left it on the converter... I don't know what the fuck i was thinking... i must have been in a real hurry that day. So yeah i left it on the converter, and just installed the converter into the housing.

I was starting to wonder though if it was replaced by a previous owner, and when it was replaced the old one was just left on the converter snout.... seems weird but i don't know how in the f*** it wasn't leaking.

I did decide to just leave it alone and start bolting the rest of the stuff to the block and get it ready for break in. I got far enough to crank it over a few times and Oil pressure shot right up to 30ish while cranking... however, it just cranked over and over again so i must have broke the CPS. Ill replace it tomorrow and hopefully get it started. While cranking it sounded just fine.. so i'm optimistic. No tranny fluid leaked either.. we will see what happens with that lol.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

I dont understand how it came out so easily... and never leaked...

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

I wonder how or why it just came right off with the Converter then......

So ive already got the engine bolted to the transmission .. should i pull the engine, or the transmission???

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Weird .. my 90 FSM says that the housing bolts are 28... I already torqued the converter to flexplate at 40ft pounds and did the 60 degree turn thingy... Im thinking thats just fine.... however i just remembered something...

When i pulled the Converter, it came out with the seal. I inspected the seal, and it looked perfectly fine... I left it on the converter and installed the converter back and made sure it seated as far as it could go. I had to turn it a bit to get it to go in all the way but it went. Of course the converter was full of tranny fluid again. Now im wondering if that was the wrong way to do it and ill have a big leak there. God that would suck to have to pull the engine again just to fix that stupid seal!

So after cam and ring breakin, i should probably change the oil straight away huh? Also adding more breakin additive?

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Are you sure about the 28ft pounds? I thought that was only for the housing bolts...

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Sooo...

I was able to find in the FSM that the bolts that attach the Flexplate to the Crankshaft get torqued to 105ft pounds. However, i couldnt find anything in the FSM for the Torque Converter to Flexplate bolts. In my haynes it says to refer to the chapter for the 4 banger for this information, and in there it says that they only get torqued to 40ft pounds and then get turned another 60 degrees past that. Does this information sound correct?

Thanks!

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Again with the Questions

I primed the engine with a drill and made sure oil was coming out of every pushrod. That was a few days ago. If im lucky, i will have a chance to start it up tonight and do the break in. Should i prime it again? Can i do it with the starter instead of a Drill? Ive already got the Distributor Indexed, and id rather not do that again....

Thanks!

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Thanks for that...

I just put my gloved finger into the bearing and it slid right out of the crank easily. It didnt have a spacer behind it or anything. I cleaned up the hole, and then installed everything.

I got the engine in the engine bay resting on the lower bolts, and the motor mounts. Today after work i should get it bolted up most of the way... The stress of it all is really sinking in.. only because of that knick.. and not replacing the main bearings or the cam and cam bearings... plus this is my first real rebuild, and my first engine swap.. soooooo yeah...

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Thanks everyone for all your help ... its been needed!

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

So this engine i bought was attached to a manual? So i am guessing that i need to also pull the bearings out of there???

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Oh another question i forgot...


Looking inside the end of the crank it has some needle bearings that looks like the TC rides inside there... Should that be stuffed with grease or anything??

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

For anyone who cares, i found what the correct size is. I took the sensor into my local hardware store and tried it in different pipe fittings and found the size. It is 3/8-18 NPT.

I drilled and tapped it no problem, and got everything bolted back to the block. However i did notice that the exhaust manifold i put on there a year or so ago is already cracked. I don't have the money or really the time to wait for a new one to arrive so i guess ill have to replace it some other time. The engine is now ready to be dropped in the engine bay..

Two quick things...

Now with the flexplate, the bolt holes are indexed in such a way that it can only be installed in one position right?

Second, any tips for getting the damn E12 bolts started?? Its not like you can really reach up there or anything.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Your thinking of the sending unit at the back of the head I think.....

I'm talking about the CTS for the ecu. Its usually right below the second freeze plug from the front.

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In topic:  New 4.6L stroker build,  Muad'Dib wrote:

How is it even possible to have this failure over and over again with nothing in the equation being a constant besides your installation techniques??

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Sooo... more problems of course.

I was getting everything buttoned up on this new to me block and i was going to put the RENIX CTS on it, but the port was blocked with a plug. I tried to get it out of the block, but the plug was like heat welded in there. I tried everything and i just couldnt get it out.

Does anyone know what thread size / pitch it is so that i can get the correct tap? Ive already drilled it out.. i just need to tap it now. What a pain in the ass!!

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

So all should be good?

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Probably another nooby question but;

I installed the timing set last night. Got number 1 at TDC, and then lined up the dots on the gears. After i installed the cover and balancer, i had to crank the engine 180 degrees to get the notch on the balancer to line up at 0 on the timing cover. This tells me when i installed the timing set, the engine was at TDC on the Exhaust stroke right? If thats true, am i going to run into any issues, or should i remove the timing set again and install with the dots lined up now that im at TDC on the compression stroke...

Thanks again for your time.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Im going through and removing old parts from the engine i threw a rod in. At least the ones im going to use on the used engine. I was going to use the two year old timing set, but thats out of the question now.. its not broke, but the dowel thingy that protrudes out the cam that goes into the cam sproket was broken. It must have been put under alot of stress... so i dont want to chance a stretched chain.. Plus it enlongated the hole in the cam sproket for that dowel pin...

Anyway, check out this harmonic balancer:

http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/CTschantz1/Harmonic%20Balancer/

Think its still good to use? I dont know how it got beat up on the end like that... seems kinda weird.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Does cam break in apply when replacing lifters? Or only when replacing both?

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Probably stupid questions but....


Since i replaced rings, and lifters i'm going to need to break in the rings correct?? Is this procedure the same as breaking in a Cam? Should i consider using some type of break in additive?

Thanks!

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Done with the block.. just need to swap the newer parts over to it from the block thats in the Jeep that exploded. Now that ive started to tear apart the Jeep to get the old block out.. it really doesnt seem that hard to pull the engines in these things....

Another question... is it bad to drain the Torque Converter?? I was reading my FSM, and it says to make sure you keep the Converter in the housing. I just kinda assumed since i was in there it would be a good time to go ahead and drain everything out of there kinda like a real flush...

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

I had already installed the bearings in around that journal and cranked the engine over a bit installing other pistions before i came back to it. The bearings had a very deep groove in them from the knicked journal. The knick seemed smoothed out a bit already from the bearings. I removed the bearings, and i scraped off what i could with a razor Then i took a fine emery cloth to the area and now its nice and smooth. Installed a new set of bearings, and im not going to think twice about it.

I have a odd question, and honestly i havent looked in my FSM yet but... how do i get the crank / cam relationship back?? Just make sure number 1 is at TDC, and line up the timing marks or...?????

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

I've been doing some reading and it seems like the general consensus is that as long as its a dimple and not protruding its not that huge of a deal. If its protruding (which mine is) then it needs to be filed with a small file and or with crocus cloth and then checked with a razor blade to make sure that the blade goes over the nick without catching. I think i'm going to take this route.

Any more insight on this? I do have another crank, but id rather not remove all the progress I've made and re-plastigauge etc...

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

I purchased new lifters, so i dont need to worry about the lifter order.



I am a ruiner of all things good. Started assembly, and plastigauged all main. Exactly to spec. Started on Rods. All within spec so far (only made it to #3) However, on piston / Rod #3 install, i got in a hurry and forgot to wrap the rod studs with hose. Needless to say my dumb ass nicked the damn rod journal. Jesus! So now there is a nice little nick in the journal that my finger catches on pretty easily.

Should i just leave it? I HAVE HAVE HAVE to get this done before i start my new job on monday... Should i start over with another crank? Or just let it eat the new #3 rod bearings and deal with it in a couple years? I dont need this engine to go 200,000+ however it will probably be another year or two maybe three before i can build my stroker.

What say you???

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

They are usually pretty tough to get out on a worn in engine.. they stick in there pretty good.. or at least on all the I6's ive worked on. Il be removing them and the cam before i hone and clean. I did purchase new lifters...

Anyone else have anything to say about the cam?

Thanks everyone for your help.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

I was able to get the right size ball hone at NAPA, along with rings and rod bearings. Bearings and rings are relatively cheap.. but that damn Ball Hone is $$$ I paid like 90 bucks for it.

Anyway, here are the shots of the cam and gear:

http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/CTschantz1/Cam/

Gear seems ok to me, but im curious about the overall cam lobe wear. Your thoughst??

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Got the rest of the Engine torn apart except for the cam. I dont know if i want to pull it out or not.. i dont want to run the risk of damaging bearings.

Check out the pics. The crank appears to be in good shape (to my noob eyes anyway... i dont really know what im looking for besides obvious stuff). Main bearings dont look bad to me, but im concearned about the rod bearings.. What do you guys think?? Please take a look at the pics below:

http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/CTschantz1/Bearings%20Etc/

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Im really starting to think that this engine sat for a long time. I tried both a green and a blue scotch brite pad with WD40, and i couldnt get the walls smooth. In some really bad areas, i couldnt even get it clean looking.

I have read and gotten many recommendations to take a ball style hone to it and re-ring. I can get an economy Ring Set for about 50, but ball hones range anywhere from 90-140 for a 4" one. Not only that, they are hard to find... im going to check NAPA tomorrow, but i doubt anyone locally carries one (VatoZone, and CSK-Whatever auto doesnt for sure). Would i be better off using a stone type honer for this particular job??

Thanks for all your help and your time.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Please take a look at these pics:

http://www.thewarezproject.org/Quick%20Engine%20Fix/

OR

http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/CTschantz1/Jeep%20Quick%20Fix/

I removed just that one bearing cap for now to inspect the bearing and crank condition. Both look really good. My Nail didnt catch on any grooves on either... Should i definetly plan on inspecting all the main and rod bearings / surfaces?? Under the oil pan seemed to look pretty good. What do you guys think? How does the CAM look? Is that pretty normal cam wear?

Im concearned about the Cylinder Walls though. They are rusty. Should i consider taking a ball hone to it?? Or something like some WD40 and a scotch brite pad? Suggestions and rcommendations are extremely appreciated.

Thanks!!

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Thanks that helps a ton!

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