In topic:  99+ intake on <96 HOs,  mecompco wrote:

Did you notice any power difference with the new intake? I will be swapping a '99 intake w/bored 60mm TB, as well as a Dynomax header/downpipe (to replace cracked OEM mani) at the same time into my '94. I do have a '99+ PS pump and bracket as well--not sure if I have the tensioner--will have to check. I figure if this works well I can swap it over to the stroker in the future.

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In topic:  rifle shopping,  mecompco wrote:

I don't have much experience with the 7mm-08. We were heavily into Class III and military type firearms, so .308 was what we did. Keeping our '60 and G3 fed was a challenge We did play with a couple .300 Win Mag anti-sniper type rifles, though. If you really want to reach out, they work well--more expensive to load for, and tougher to find factory ammo for than the .308 or '06, if that is a concern.

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In topic:  Donations,  mecompco wrote:

Muad'Dib wrote:

tigerShark wrote:
hey, if you throw in a free "Jeep Strokers" t-shirt and decal in with the donation it wouldnt be a bad idea.

Sounds good... ive already been looking into getting decals / window stickers.. but not the t-shirts.

What kinds of design's would you like to see on them?

A full color sticker of the forum logo would be nice....

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In topic:  rifle shopping,  mecompco wrote:

For accurate and cheap, it's tough to beat a Savage. Back when I was in the biz we had a heavy bbl. 308 Savage that we used to play with once in a while. With a decent scope I could consistanly hit those orange exploding targets (1" bullseye, IIRC) off the bench at 200 yards.

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In topic:  4.5l stroker build advice.,  mecompco wrote:

After reading about all the issues and challenges getting a good quence and CR able to run on regular gas, it seems like custom pistons might very well end up being the more economical choice. Say off-the-shelf pistons are $200 (guessing) and customs are $600 for a $400 difference. If that means you can run regular instead of super, and there is a .50 per gallon difference, the custom pistons would be paid for in about a year (13K miles, assuming 350 miles on a 20 gal tank, which is about what I get with my slightly tired 4.0).

I think it makes much sense to spend a little more up front and avoid higher costs and headaches down the road. Any counter-points?

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In topic:  Show your stuff...,  mecompco wrote:

Very cool! The Bronc has 4.56 gears, but they are still too tall (w/35s) for the 1/8th--it has a C6 and I was just hitting third (B&M megashifter) at the finish line (at 70 mph). Sadly, the body is pretty much shot on the truck and I've yet to decide what to do with the mill (and Detroit locked 9"). Perhaps a rat rod of some sort a little more suitable for the strip.

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In topic:  Show your stuff...,  mecompco wrote:

Here's what my stroker will be going into eventually:



Way too much to list, but highlights are: OME/JKS 3" lift, D30 Chromos, Super 88, 4.56 gears, ARBs front and rear, Currie steering, Tnt belly pan, Tom Woods SYE and HD driveshafts. Waiting to install are an ARB bull bar and snorkle.

Oh, and a bit off topic, but here's my '83 Bronc w/425ci stroker (running a pretty crappy 10 sec in the 1/8th on 35" muds):



It would be interesting to see what a SBF like that would do in an XJ

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In topic:  Another 4.6 Build,  mecompco wrote:

4point6 wrote:
Another note on the intakes. I had read that the 99+ intake manifold has smaller ports. My quick measurement comparison vs. the stock 97 intake shows the exact same measurements for the ports. I guess the 99+ intake gets its extra power (??) from the runner design.

I am under the impression that the improvement comes from the runner design as well as the significat increase of internal volume (4300cc vs. 2600cc).

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In topic:  Best Crankshaft Choice,  mecompco wrote:

seanyb505 wrote:

mecompco wrote:

Cool! I'll specify I want the 4.0 main bearings. Thanks for the info.

It will come with the 4.2 bearings. I dont know if you can choose which bearings you want.

Which, as I understand it, we don't want to use. That's too bad--bearings are what, another $50-$70?

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In topic:  Best Crankshaft Choice,  mecompco wrote:

fedrusion wrote:
I thought the 50 I paid for a good 4.2 was a great price.

That's great--no machining required? With my luck I'd likely still have to pay out for that on top of the price for the used crank.

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In topic:  Best Crankshaft Choice,  mecompco wrote:

seanyb505 wrote:
The crank will come with both main and connecting rod bearings. (Mine did anyway)

Cool! I'll specify I want the 4.0 main bearings. Thanks for the info.

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In topic:  Best Crankshaft Choice,  mecompco wrote:

John wrote:
If it comes with bearings, they will be the wrong ones for your 92 block, check this out. You might get them to swap for the correct ones if discussed in advance.
John

John, it didn't mention anything about bearings, so I assume they'd be extra. I thought I read in the FAQs that the 4.0 and 4.2 used the same bearings--perhaps that was rod bearings, not main bearings (or perhaps I'm misremembering entirely)? Is there a brand preferance? Clevite? Is there anything else I should order at the same time? Due to budget constraints, I'm doing this Johnny Cash style--one piece at a time. My goal is to have it done before my 4.0 calves (only 180K on it, so I think I've still got some time).

Michael

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In topic:  Exhaust drone around 75 mph,  mecompco wrote:

You could try a stock down-turning tip, I suppose--it might help. My Dynomax muffler with custom-bent pipe (to clear the 8.8) is straight out the back. I don't find it any more objectionable than the stock muffler/pipe w/downturn was, though.

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In topic:  Best Crankshaft Choice,  mecompco wrote:

OK, I checked O'Reilly's:

PN: 25210 (I used an '82 CJ5 as the model to search for, w/258) $227.99 including core charge and free shipping.

Unless one could find a used one for under $50.00, that really seems the way to go, considering the machine shop costs.

I assume a reman'ed one would be ready to drop in with no extra work? Any caveats to be aware of? I assume checking all the machined surfaces for correct size would be a good idea.

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In topic:  Best Crankshaft Choice,  mecompco wrote:

OK, I've read the FAQ, I've read 5-90s book and all the stroker recipe threads. I've gotten some good info from my "wanted" thread here. But, I think I need a little more specifity in the choice of a crankshaft.

1) It is my understanding that with an auto tranny either 4 or 12 CW cranshaft would be fine (my application is off-road/DD, and I could care less about 1/4 mile times or top speed--max torque up to about 3K and max reliability is what I'm looking for).

True/False?

2) Within reason (chromed Hesco is out , what's the most economical choice w/o compromising reliability?

Remanufactured w/2" snout (which I guess would be a later-model, 4 CW--correct?)
Junkyard/Classifieds used (cheaper, but would need machining, and could be either 4 or 12 CW)
Other

3) Assuming I go with a used one, what is a reasonable amount to pay (let's also assume it's already been extracted from the engine) and are there any caveats I should be aware of?

I don't think it make any difference, but it's going in a '92 block. Thanks for any and all opinions!

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In topic:  "Save" button madness,  mecompco wrote:

Ah, see, I WAS stupidly missing something, and I read thru the FAQ as well. That is a pretty good feature, now that I know drafts can actually be retrieved LOL! I spend most of my time on JeepForum, NAXJA and our local club site and my mouse finger is just pre-programmed to click on the "save" button.

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In topic:  "Save" button madness,  mecompco wrote:

Is there a purpose to the "Save" button, other than to save a "draft" which (unless I'm missing something, which is certainly a possibility) can never be recalled. It is just so intuitive to click Save that I've already lost several posts (including this one) having hit Save instead of Submit by mistake.

Now that my complaint is out of the way, I do love the forum--thanks for all the hard work in getting it up. I've added a forum link to my sig on NAXJA, as well as our local club site midcoastjeep.com.

Regards,
Michael

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In topic:  Crankshaft Balancing?,  mecompco wrote:

jsawduste wrote:
The only way to insure you are doing the balance job correctly. Is to have not only the crank. But the HB, flywheel and clutch pressure plate (if used) dynamically balanced as a whole.

Stupid question: How is this accomplished--with the parts installed in the engine? Thanks!

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