In topic:  '99 MJ 4.7L Build,  seanyb505 wrote:

How did you prep/paint the intake manifold?

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In topic:  Scat cranks: $400,  seanyb505 wrote:

I just received mine. Look back for pics.

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In topic:  New 4.6L stroker build,  seanyb505 wrote:

This thread never gives me hope of having a decent running stroker.

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In topic:  First Stroker, Please Help,  seanyb505 wrote:

I believe the 4wts were only offered for a few years, 87-90 in the YJ. Everything else is a 12wt. For peace of mind, SCAT is offering a new crank, not a reman. They want 400 but they can be found for less elsewhere.

Edit: Im dumb, I got it mixed up for when I was looking for my crank - 87-90 are the only 4wt crank that dont need the snout cut or need a spacer.

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In topic:  roller rockers on a stroker.,  seanyb505 wrote:

Cheromaniac wrote:
If it's the cam with 240 degrees advertised duration and 0.43" lift, that's so mild that I wouldn't even bother going higher than 1.6's.

Not sure I understand this statement completely. If its a mild cam wouldnt the 1:7 units give it more lift? Im thinking of ways to justify the yella terras, but not if its only to get rid of a small tick. Thats what the stereo is for.

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In topic:  engine paint,  seanyb505 wrote:

I used Duplicolor Chrysler Hemi Orange. It has held up well for two years now.

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In topic:  '99 MJ 4.7L Build,  seanyb505 wrote:

There are certain Ford injectors that most people run. I cannot recall the part number, but I think SilverXJ knows what flavor to look for.

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In topic:  Gradon's Stroker Project,  seanyb505 wrote:

I just read over on NAXJA that some ZJ years' steering boxes are bolt-on, and give a sportier feel. Might be worth looking into

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In topic:  Looking for Website,  seanyb505 wrote:

You're not talking about Dino's website are you? I know he has the recipes and such somewhere. I think the link is in his sig.

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In topic:  Header choice on a 4.7 MJ build,  seanyb505 wrote:

Why are APN junk inferior products? Ive read more of borlas cracking and my APN has held up just fine for a few years now....

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In topic:  ISKY CAMSHAFT TECH TIPS...GOOD READING,  seanyb505 wrote:

The Isky cam I have has longer duration and more lift on the exhaust side. I didnt see any red hot glowing, or overheating. After reading those tech tips, I think one of those Spike (Horsepower, Extreme 4x4) shows ought to sit down with a 4.0 (preferrably stroked to have accurate relevant results) and test different camshaft grinds. Would it be too much to ask to try all the cams they test with each of the head designs, too?

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In topic:  New 4.6L stroker build,  seanyb505 wrote:

That was one of my biggest issues with Isky, it takes forever to get them to do anything. You just have to stay on top of them.

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In topic:  Stock up on those 258 cranks now!,  seanyb505 wrote:

Bodo wrote:
Always wondered, what does NOS mean?

Nitrous Oxide Systems, as in, "Dom, I need nitrous." duh!

Ive been trying to pay honor to the c4c Jeeps by putting all their nice stuff in my crappy one

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In topic:  Misc part number FAQ thread,  seanyb505 wrote:

This may not apply to some newer products, but the great lakes xj website has links to pdf files of all years xj parts catalogs.

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In topic:  The first stroker?,  seanyb505 wrote:

Didnt hesco build and supercharged stroker in a yellow mj? Cant remember what year, but it was when the MJs were still available new

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In topic:  Stock up on those 258 cranks now!,  seanyb505 wrote:

It makes sense (to me) for Chrysler make more, they already have specs for it and the tools to make them. I dont think such a large corporation would introduce an engine if they dont know where their next crank will come from or if they have to run around buying autozone cranks. I thought I saw that one for 345 on ebay back when I was looking for my crank in 2007.

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In topic:  chrysler intro's new products,  seanyb505 wrote:

Mopar will also introduce a new 4.7-liter I-6 Stroker long block, a powerful
upgrade for the 4.0-liter I-6 made famous in Jeep vehicles built from
1991-2006. Because off-road enthusiasts appreciated the dependability and
performance of the previous 4.0-liter engine, Mopar developed a more powerful
engine that delivers an expected 265 hp and 290 lb.-ft of torque. The engine
will fit in any Jeep vehicle previously equipped with the 4.0-liter I-6


Details! DETAILS!!

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In topic:  7120 vs 0331 head,  seanyb505 wrote:

gradon wrote:
Looks like I have a 0331 that won't be used that can be sacrificed...

The Jeep gods approve, and do the banana dance

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In topic:  4.5 Lower buck stroker build,  seanyb505 wrote:

This sounds similar to how my build went... I dont need that...but Ill get it anyway. Ill stick with the stock cam...might as well go aftermarket since Im here...."Its supposed to be a performance build, right?"

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In topic:  Garage urinal,  seanyb505 wrote:

PolloLoco wrote:
I emptied the coolant while pulling my motor today so I've been going in the container today

One of the funniest things Ive heard in a while! I think the closest thing Ive done to that was to go in an oil container, which later got dropped off at advance auto in the recycling barrel.

PolloLoco wrote:
Although for the cost of machine work on a stroker I can poop anywhere.

Definitely new sig

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In topic:  Stroker stumbles from 1.5-2.5k,  seanyb505 wrote:

I finally got around to installing a junkyard fuel pump. In the first two times Ive driven it, there has been no stumble. Im hoping it was a combination of the lt1 injectors and the other fuel pump that did it.

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In topic:  Custom Conversion Wiring Harness,  seanyb505 wrote:

I would look for a mid 90's harness from the junkyard. You'll be able to use the fuel pump and the mid 90s TB.

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In topic:  How many miles on your stroker?,  seanyb505 wrote:

Ive got about 6k on mine. Differently - not buy already dished pistons so I could have a little bit of flexibility. I bought them dished to 30cc, I would have gone lower to raise the compression a bit. I also would have built the bottom end myself, for peace of mind. Lastly I would not wait as long to install and start the engine after it was completed. It sat for about a month or so before I got around to starting it for the first time.

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In topic:  SCCA Turbo 5.0L MJ (Comanche Eliminator Project),  seanyb505 wrote:

To me it always seemed easier to break in the engine on the stock system without the turbo, then get the engine to run properly on the MS and then add the turbo and get it to run with that. It seems to me that doing it in stages would definitely take more time and probly money, but for a first timer I would be able to isolate and identify any potential problems that occur.

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In topic:  The Road to Bonneville and back,  seanyb505 wrote:

Murphy's Law sucks...Is there more to this story or has everything started working toward next year already? There will be a next year, right?

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In topic:  Stroker stumbles from 1.5-2.5k,  seanyb505 wrote:

Ill check that, but I dont think the engine would react the way it is under described TPS signals. It seems it would either cut out or go wide open like you mentioned.

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In topic:  Stroker stumbles from 1.5-2.5k,  seanyb505 wrote:

Ive tried some different injectors - from a 95 Trans Am, the kind with 6 holes. Its smoother overall, but it still stumbles. It seems that the stumble is only there when its cold. Once it is up to operating temperature its gone. Even if its cold, once you get past it in a gear its gone as you wind through the gear. If I shift and fall back into the range its there again. So its affected by temp, not by RPM. Any Ideas?

I have yet to try a new fuel pump yet, but with c4c there are waves of XJs coming into the junkyards, so Ill likely grab one this week.

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In topic:  SCCA Turbo 5.0L MJ (Comanche Eliminator Project),  seanyb505 wrote:

Sounds like an amazing project! Finish it, cause too many people dont. My excuse is money fow now. A couple thoughts:

One the multiple turbos: you would do a stage setup or two identical turbos?

I believe you can modify WJ (dual piston) front brakes for XJs, have you looked into compatibility with the MJ?

What tranny are you planning on using?

Turbo the NSX?

Ive been thinking about modifying some prerunner fiberglass fender flares to give more like a road course oriented look to them. The SCCA trucks just used a deeper front air dam, I think wider fenders would complete the package. This sounds very close to what I want to do with mine, only I dont think I will be using it in any organized events so bah with rules!

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In topic:  Short Rod VS Long Rod (Trying to wrap my head around it),  seanyb505 wrote:

To people speaking of the Eagle forged 6.150 rod: do they even make those anymore?

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In topic:  Stroker stumbles from 1.5-2.5k,  seanyb505 wrote:

Any ideas for a good cheap scanner? I plan on getting a decent one later when the turbo comes, but I dont want to shell out the money right now.

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In topic:  New to the forum,  seanyb505 wrote:

Interested in the F body clip. Have you seen it done before or you figure itll work somehow? Did you happen to see the M90 mounting bracket kit for sale on ebay?

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In topic:  Stroker stumbles from 1.5-2.5k,  seanyb505 wrote:

I suppose the next step will be verifying voltage of the sensors, and then perhaps have the injectors tested. The gas smell was stronger than normal, but the richness would only be a symptom and not the problem. The CEL is coming on and turning off at random times. The stumble still hasnt left. I tried premium and it didnt help.

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In topic:  Stroker stumbles from 1.5-2.5k,  seanyb505 wrote:

I put in a new upstream o2 sensor, spark plugs and patched some wiring. Still stumbled. Then I threw on a TPS and another TB sensor from an 01 and it still stumbled. It really smelled like gas when I was working on it, so Im guessing its running too rich and I think the injectors I have may be the cuplrit, even though it ran for 4500 miles without a similar issue. They were never tested, so thats next after I get it scanned by advance or someone.

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In topic:  Stroker stumbles from 1.5-2.5k,  seanyb505 wrote:

Built about a year ago and ran fine for the first 4-5k miles. Before the stroker I had an issue where I could drive it normally, turn it off, and it would stumble after I shifted to second. The stumble would go away as soon as I let off the gas(shifting into thrid for example). I never looked into fixing it. Now the stroker does the same thing, only much worse and all the time. It doesnt matter if its cold or warm. As soon as I get through that RPM range it takes off like normal and will run fine until I have to accelerate through the range again. If I try to hold an rpm at idle it will fluctuate about 100 rpms and slowly fall. I disconnected the battery and held the key for 30 seconds, and it seemed to go away for the first 2 minutes then was back again. The o2 sensor has never been changed so I have one of those ready to go. I suspected maybe the fuel filter, but the auto part stores dont have it. Can you change only the fuel filter, or do you have to do the whole pump? Any other ideas?

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In topic:  Suggestions,  seanyb505 wrote:

laxplayermjd wrote:
I think it may be something good to make a subforum of locations of all members where its easy to see if you may have another member in your area.Im sure it may help to get things going outside of this forum. Helping fellow members first hand and meeting up possibly. Could list members by state then a local city. Guess alot depends also on how many people there really is. Just a suggestion. Any one else think this may be a good idea?

You could always go to members in the upper right and sort the list by location.

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In topic:  To Cam or not to cam,  seanyb505 wrote:

Yeah I thought you would need other stuff to make it work.

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In topic:  To Cam or not to cam,  seanyb505 wrote:

Im fairly positive youre stuck with the stock cam as the cam retention system was changed in 99. I think you can modify it somehow to fit older and aftermarket cams, so I would look into that.

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In topic:  Crankshaft Questions,  seanyb505 wrote:

You cant argue with weight saving. I havent experienced any issues with the 4wt and 5sp setup.

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In topic:  Remanufactured Crankshaft Machining? .10/.10 ? .20/.20 ?,  seanyb505 wrote:

I got all my standard rebuild stuff from Falcon and they couldnt find anything for my application (97 block). It was still around the same price, so I wasnt terribly upset.

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In topic:  Gas mileage,  seanyb505 wrote:

9-13 seems low, the lowest I would ever get with th 4.0 was around 16-17 in the city. You can design the build to run on low grade or high grade. Its up to you.

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In topic:  Falcon on Ebay,  seanyb505 wrote:

If your in Canada that makes more sense. I live in Fl and their shipping was quick...because they ship from Fl.

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In topic:  Bonneville Comanche,  seanyb505 wrote:

jeepstrokers.com is 16 characters

I think LSR 'Manche III would be cool. With the LSR on the end it sounds like your referring to the record not the vehicle.

Is the number already final? I know its your sons year, but could you do the engine size in ccs?

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In topic:  Remanufactured Crankshaft Machining? .10/.10 ? .20/.20 ?,  seanyb505 wrote:

I got a really crappy one from Oreilleys, the mains are .040. Only one company makes that size of bearings, and theyre in israel.

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In topic:  Question about block decking,  seanyb505 wrote:

I had my by block decked .045" and the head .015". Right now ex lift is .465, I dont have any issues.

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In topic:  Proper color to piant engine?,  seanyb505 wrote:

I went with Hemi Orange with everything block-wise and did a glass black valve cover. I figured the SRT models have orange blocks, why not mine?

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In topic:  Stroker Installed, No Start,  seanyb505 wrote:

Did you use an aftermarket cam? They could have the oil pump gear not completely on the dot. Try sliding the dizzy in one notch clockwise or counterclockwise. Mine wouldnt start at the right place but when I slid it in one notch clockwise it caught right away. Youre supposed to lock the body to the rotor, but when I did that I couldnt get the bolt hole on the dizzy to line up with the bolt hole on the block, I had to turn it slightly. Grinding the ears or tabs off the dizzy allowed me to turn the whole thing but still have the rotor and points lined up properly.

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In topic:  which clutch?,  seanyb505 wrote:

My CF DF II is a little overkill for my 4.6 I think, but I plan on going forced induction later so I thought I might as well.

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In topic:  Mopar Purple Cam Questions,  seanyb505 wrote:

Stock pushrods if youre not decking the block or head. Stock strength will be fine too, its not too extreme to really need anything more. Valves will not make contact with your cylinders at .430 lift, youre good to go

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In topic:  How much are you going or did you spend on your stroker?,  seanyb505 wrote:

By the time my stroker was running I had spent just over 4k. Major parts was around 1500, machine shop was 1700, and other random stuff put me up for the last 1000 or so. I had some stuff go wrong, and I replaced a lot of stuff under the engine bay while I was there. My engine could have been had for 2-2.5k, but i wanted to know it was done right and would be reliable.

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In topic:  Suggestions,  seanyb505 wrote:

It would definitely show who was helpful and better help the newbarians. One thing Ive noticed, and I know other people here have, is that we dont stray too far from the heart of the site. We come here for info, we get/give it, and go back to the garage/ebay. There isnt a whole lot of frivolous banter going on here, so a positive negative system might not get abused. A positive only system would definitely prevent any abuse though. I think it would be a helpful feature.

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