In topic:  Choosing a Stroker Cam??,  ActionJackson wrote:

Good question about the 327 rods. I will have to take a look. I think they used the smaller rods to reduce reciprocating mass. Not sure. As for the stroke, another good question. I will have to get with Clifford on this. I bought the engine built and just wanted to make a few mods. Seemed like a good start.

Hmm....

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In topic:  Lifter Noise, What can I do about it?,  SilverXJ wrote:

You didn't do any damage by collapsing the lifter by hand. Pull the valve cover and tap the effected rocker with a soft face mallet to see if you can loosen the lifter. May just be a piece of dirt stuck in it. Or could just be some air trapped in it.

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In topic:  Choosing a Stroker Cam??,  4.whoa wrote:

It seems the biggest hangup everyone has with the roller cam is the grooved lifters. Why not use lifters from a v8? LA engines use the exact same flattappet ,so why not use a roller lifter from it?

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In topic:  Lifter Noise, What can I do about it?,  AlexTJ wrote:

So I finally got my jeep back from my machinist (who ended up replacing the head as well as his crappy head bolt hole sleeving) and I drove it around yesterday.

Problem is, I have a really loud tick at idle and it gets faster as the revs climb.

It seems like a single tick, from one source, as opposed to my first startup noise which was a cacophony.

When I first started the Jeep at my machinists shop, it made the noise, and my machinist walked up, listened for a sec and said, 'thats a lifter'

Then he walked away and went back to work.

I've got it at home now, but I'm wondering wtf I can do?

They are brand new Hylift Johnson lifters. The only weird thing I noticed was when I was first assembling the engine, back in July, I set the pushrods on the lifters and pushed down on them to see if they were in the lifters and to just kind of feel the lifters' movement.
Wellllll.... I remember pushing down on one pushrod and not having it bounce back up..... And its right where the noise seems to be coming from...

So, if I collapsed the lifter by hand, is there any way I can fix it without taking the head off and replacing it????

I really don't have alot of time since my mechanical engineering classes have restarted so I want to fix this as easily as possible....

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In topic:  Choosing a Stroker Cam??,  SilverXJ wrote:

ActionJackson wrote:
I am curious about these grooves.

Good pictures of the grooves here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1883&p=19478#p19478 Good idea, but they are just too large.

 Quote…

I have also been considering the 280 cam from Clifford. Any input on these?

Hesco has an interesting cam. 310* duration iirc. However they modify the hydraulic lifters to act similar to rhodes lifters/solid EDM hole lifters. Sounds like a solid lifter cam and has great throttle response I have been told.

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In topic:  Choosing a Stroker Cam??,  dwg86 wrote:

ActionJackson wrote:
I think I can see 4/10ths shaved off with the cam swap and a 150 shot of nitrous. I am curious about these grooves. I have also been considering the 280 cam from Clifford. Any input on these? I am waiting for Larry from Clifford Performance to get back to me with the specs on the cam. I am not looking anything to radical. Something mechanically sound that will work with my 4.9 Clifford stroker that will run with a tunable Uni-chip. Input is appreciated. Here are the specs:

4.9L bored .060 over
Custom offset ground 258 crank
Clifford 290 dur. cam and solid lifters
10:1 comp
Arias pistons
Eagle Chevy 327 rods
Custom head work
CRT HEI distributor and 8mm wires
Clifford timing set
Balanced to 7000 rpm
All ARP hardware
Clifford Roller Rockers

P.S.
I am going to swap out the 290 cam. Anyone looking for one? Make you a deal.

I am running an Engle cam, 214 dur @ .050/ .501 lift, 112 lobe centers. I like it. It's a good torquey cam. It comes on really strong about 2500 and pulls hard through 4500 rpm. No problems with my 2003 computer controlled TJ. Very slight lope when cold, by smooths out after warm.

I am curious about your setup. What stroke is your engine now? How did Clifford get the 327 rods to work on the 258 crank? The 327 rods should be WAY too narrow. The big end width on the 327 rods are .940. Jeep rods are 1.060 wide. That's a differance of .120. I think max side clearance on the rods is .020.

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In topic:  Choosing a Stroker Cam??,  scalper wrote:

i would be mad if 150 shot only knocked off 4 tenths.

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In topic:  Choosing a Stroker Cam??,  ActionJackson wrote:

I think I can see 4/10ths shaved off with the cam swap and a 150 shot of nitrous. I am curious about these grooves. I have also been considering the 280 cam from Clifford. Any input on these? I am waiting for Larry from Clifford Performance to get back to me with the specs on the cam. I am not looking anything to radical. Something mechanically sound that will work with my 4.9 Clifford stroker that will run with a tunable Uni-chip. Input is appreciated. Here are the specs:

4.9L bored .060 over
Custom offset ground 258 crank
Clifford 290 dur. cam and solid lifters
10:1 comp
Arias pistons
Eagle Chevy 327 rods
Custom head work
CRT HEI distributor and 8mm wires
Clifford timing set
Balanced to 7000 rpm
All ARP hardware
Clifford Roller Rockers

P.S.
I am going to swap out the 290 cam. Anyone looking for one? Make you a deal.

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In topic:  Choosing a Stroker Cam??,  SkylinesSuck wrote:

You are claiming a 4/10ths and 4mph gain in the 1/4 with just a cam swap? I have a hard time believing that, especially over and already aftermarket cam.

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In topic:  Choosing a Stroker Cam??,  scalper wrote:

I really liked the power diference using the 505 stage 2 cam over my old comp 63 231.I knocked off 4 tenths and gained 4mph in the 1/4 between the two.i recently built another 4.7 for my dd sleeper using the 505 stage 3 and it seems to pull hard to redline .cant wait to take this one to the track.realy dont know whats not to like about the 505 specs,works great with a 150 shot of spray,good drivability and decent mileage.i admit i was a little leary about the grooves in the lifters but my oil pressure been great so other than the cosmetics of it i am not having problems.im sure 505 could sell a kit with non groved lifters.got 19000 miles on my old 4.7 with the stage 2 so durability been good so for.zach at 505 says he gives a 1 year warranty on these kits so thats not to bad customer support.

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In topic:  Thinking about used 4.2 rods instead of new,  Cheromaniac wrote:

You'll need to have the rods checked and possibly resized. Whichever rods you use, I highly recommend you go for a set of ARP rod bolts.

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In topic:  new stroker build about to happen. some questions to ask...,  Cheromaniac wrote:

I run mine (9.25:1 CR, 0.088" quench) on 87 octane during the cooler months when it's less than 90*F outside.

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In topic:  Choosing a Stroker Cam??,  basscat wrote:

I agree that the grooves are not indicative of craftsman level machine work. My machinist wanted me to buy a new set of roller lifters and let him mill a small flat spot along the side of each lifter. Since scalper is running fine, I decided to try them with the hv pump and see where it goes. If I could rewind the clock, I would've went with a stock cam and lifters because low end torque is all I need. But, the clock no rewind...

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In topic:  Cam bearing failure (pics),  basscat wrote:

FINALLY got all the replacement parts from 505. Will try to get it together next week.

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In topic:  Choosing a Stroker Cam??,  I6FAN wrote:

I thought they looked rough when I first saw them as well. Sometimes when manufacturers scrap product, they deface it in some way so it doesn't get back into the "good" population. That's what I thought of when seeing them, but I really think it was someones "seat-of-the-pants" attempt at trying to supply more oil to the lobes done in a non analytical fashion.

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In topic:  Choosing a Stroker Cam??,  SilverXJ wrote:

I wouldn't run one either. I am unimpressed by the profiles offered and its still a cast cam blank. The oil groove issue is also scary. They are too large. Their pre purchase support isn't great either.

I also don't like the Crower cam saver lifters. They might help, but the problem is that the lifter is constantly rotating, and the oil needs to be dropped on the cam lobe before it goes under the lifter. So, it will only be helping a small percentage of the time. The lifter them selves are good, Topline/Johnson lifters. If you want more oil to the cam I suggest the lifter bore grooving.

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In topic:  Stroker Installation Tips?,  SilverXJ wrote:

Its only 4 bolts.

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In topic:  Choosing a Stroker Cam??,  dwg86 wrote:

My opinion for what it's worth....I wouldn't run one, after I saw the grooves that were ground (by hand) down the side of the lifters. Unless 505 could tell you the purpose of these horrible looking, huge internal engine oil leaking grooves. You HAVE to run a high volume oil pump to overcome the internal oil leaks caused by the grooves. I wouldn't think the roller on the bottom of the lifter needs that much oil.
If the guys from 505 are reading this, I don't mean to be bad mouthing your products. I think it's great for any company to offer performance products for the Jeep 6. But the pics I saw of the roller lifters looked bad.

See page 3 of this thread for pics of the lifters viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1883&hilit=cam+bearings

Also, for what its worth, The camsaver lifters offered by Crower have a very small flat ground down the sides of the lifter. It's only a few thousands of an inch, and it lets more oil to the cam. Crower says it drops oil psi from 2-5 psi. Those huge grooves on the roller lifters have got to bleed a lot of oil pressure.

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In topic:  Stroker Installation Tips?,  Bodo wrote:

Thanks for the reply.

Well crap. More wrenching from under the Jeep today then.

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In topic:  Stuck!! Bogging? Loading up on fuell?,  jcsj wrote:

I'm using stock jets, I need to make sure that the secondaries are closed at idle. I'm running the same ign system as you, plugs are gapped at .055 i may go to .060. my next move is to check my lifter pre load, because i may not have enough, making for some extra noise,and rough idle.

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In topic:  Stroker Installation Tips?,  4.whoa wrote:

Yes that's how you get to the converter bolts. You do that to keep the converter in the belhousing - and the fluid off the floor

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In topic:  Choosing a Stroker Cam??,  ActionJackson wrote:

Ok, so since the motor is built, it finally comes down to a very import component - the cam. I have read a lot on here about the Comp Cam for the stroker. Seems good for a lot of low end torque, but there seems to be some trouble with "chewing the lobes" by something going wrong (wrong ZDDP in the oil, rocker ratio/spring compression, etc). I was wondering what anyone knew about the 505 Performance hydraulic roller cam. Seems to be a solution to the cam wear issue and is also good for an additional 50hp or so not to mention a higher redline.

Any input anyone??

AJ

http://www.shop.505performance.com/prod ... egoryId=31



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In topic:  4.7L Stroker noise on first startup,  4.whoa wrote:

I've never seen short or long blocks come with "tin" (vc's oilpans , timing covers) just crate motors. They should've included the spring and pin or at least a reminder though.

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In topic:  Stroker Installation Tips?,  Bodo wrote:

Does the inspection plate need to come off to separate the motor from the AW4?

I got the top torx bolts off this afternoon. Using SilverXJ's technique it wasn't as bad as I thought.

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In topic:  4.7L Stroker noise on first startup,  amcinstaller wrote:

AlexTJ wrote:
I can understand them not installing it there because the motors come without a timing cover on them.

ummmm. why would that be?

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In topic:  Mud racing with a stroker?,  amcinstaller wrote:

lafrad wrote:
yeap, race gas and AVGas will be not good for a Cat and will reduce the life of Oxygen sensors to under 25,000 miles.

But honestly, if you are mud-racing a truck with Cats and are expecting to rack up over 25,000 miles of racing... I would question your motives

this is true. good call

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In topic:  Mud racing with a stroker?,  Bodo wrote:

VP sells a high octane, unleaded fuel. VP100 and MS109. I have a customer with a modified saab that needs this stuff. $$$

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In topic:  Bodo's Build,  Bodo wrote:





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In topic:  Stuck!! Bogging? Loading up on fuell?,  shawnxj wrote:

i honestly think your jets are way to big...if you can i'd go down a couple more sizes

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In topic:  4.7L Stroker noise on first startup,  AlexTJ wrote:

They didn't send me a cam button either!!! I didn't know it needed one and well, it blew up after 20k miles and 2.5 years.

I can understand them not installing it there because the motors come without a timing cover on them. But if it's your first time putting on a the timing cover it's easy to be completely oblivious to the buttons existence. I had no idea about the button until I was tearing down the engine, found signs of cam walk, and did research.

I dunno if that's why my engine blew up but it still sucks.

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In topic:  Stuck!! Bogging? Loading up on fuell?,  blk85cj7 wrote:

I'm running rich as well. It's been an ongoing problem. The motor will stall so I think my valve is fine. It was actually stalling until I was about a full turn out. The screws are set about the same as yours. Fuel Pump is a Holley rated between 4 -7 psi. I think I'm pretty close on the idle mixture. My existing problem is when I put it under any kind of load it bogs. To the point it's not drivable. It sounds/feels like it's loading up on fuel. Maybe the Squirter or Jets? I shooting a bit blind without a gas analyzer and vacuum gauge.
I'm new to carb tuning so I'll keep messing with it.

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In topic:  Stroker Parts in MA,  buschguy wrote:

I've got a guy thinking about the rods. They are $500
The Cam is PN# P4529228AB bought for $225.00 sell for $150
The springs are PN# P4529214 bought for $150 sell for $50
These prices do not include shipping. I would have to get a zip code for a shipping quote.

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In topic:  Mud racing with a stroker?,  lafrad wrote:

yeap, race gas and AVGas will be not good for a Cat and will reduce the life of Oxygen sensors to under 25,000 miles.

But honestly, if you are mud-racing a truck with Cats and are expecting to rack up over 25,000 miles of racing... I would question your motives

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In topic:  Mud racing with a stroker?,  amcinstaller wrote:

wasnt there a thread a while back where someone wanted to run aviaton fuel but the lead content destroyed the catalytic converter? im sure i read that here.

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In topic:  Mud racing with a stroker?,  lafrad wrote:

If you are allowed to run race gas, i would go with the KB pistons.

Get the 4.2 crank, run it with the 4.0 rods and the KB pistons that are built for high compression (if you can get them to give you flat-top pistons, even better)

Race fuel (or even AVGas from your local airport) LOVES compression... LOTS AND LOTS of compression. a flattop with a 4.2 crank would give a bit over 11.5: CR. there is 20-25 HP more just in compresison alone. Add to the fact that you get decent geometry from the long rods and more displacement from the crank, it would be a HUGE upgrade over what you got now.

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In topic:  Stroking an Xj 4.0L,  amcinstaller wrote:

you can use your 4.0 rods if you use KB pistons. i think the part number is like IC944 or somethin like that. the exact number escapes me right now.

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In topic:  Mud racing with a stroker?,  amcinstaller wrote:

with using 4.2 crank and rods, and sstock 4.0 pistons, the piston is too far down in the hole at top dead center. so the quench sucks and you get a crappy burn or hot spots. someone else will chime in im sure and explain it more/better

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In topic:  Mud racing with a stroker?,  jonb8 wrote:

Little update, She ran the Wirt Co fair and placed third. The LSD 8.8 pooped out and she was open diff again and with the 34/10.50 TSL's she didn't hook up and bounce off the limiter the whole way. We ran coolville also and she took 3rd, another xj on 33 12/50 boggers won and a big block ford took second. She didn't hook up there either, so this week I pulled the axles and put the stock axles back in and started looking for a 2dr to build. I was worried about the 12 BW crank would be too heavy so thanks for the input, I've found several 12 BW motors and no 4's.
My plan is too build a 2dr xj with as little lift as possible, 35/10.50 boggers, 410 D30 and 8.8 with a spool. So what's the downfall of just using the 258 crank and rods in a 4.0 block with stock pistons? I worry about a cam because I have to pull stock vacuum. I just hate to put tons of money in the motor and put it in the mud. I can run racing fuel in it, if the added compression helps with HP. I only need about 20hp to gain the 3 or 4 tenths She's getting beat by.

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In topic:  Stroking an Xj 4.0L,  worthin08 wrote:

I have a question I am getting a 4.2L crank don't I have to use 4.2L rods in my 4.0L block or can I use 4.0L rods on a 4.2L crank and the stroke still be right making sure everything will work?

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In topic:  new stroker build about to happen. some questions to ask...,  kylerobb1 wrote:

oh and i'm keeping the head stock, just wanted to know about machining on it. also the cam will stay near stock.

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