In topic:  Stroker Installation Tips?,  SilverXJ wrote:

Its only 4 bolts.

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In topic:  Stroker Installation Tips?,  Bodo wrote:

Thanks for the reply.

Well crap. More wrenching from under the Jeep today then.

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In topic:  Stuck!! Bogging? Loading up on fuell?,  jcsj wrote:

I'm using stock jets, I need to make sure that the secondaries are closed at idle. I'm running the same ign system as you, plugs are gapped at .055 i may go to .060. my next move is to check my lifter pre load, because i may not have enough, making for some extra noise,and rough idle.

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In topic:  Stroker Installation Tips?,  4.whoa wrote:

Yes that's how you get to the converter bolts. You do that to keep the converter in the belhousing - and the fluid off the floor

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In topic:  Stroker Installation Tips?,  Bodo wrote:

Does the inspection plate need to come off to separate the motor from the AW4?

I got the top torx bolts off this afternoon. Using SilverXJ's technique it wasn't as bad as I thought.

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In topic:  Stuck!! Bogging? Loading up on fuell?,  shawnxj wrote:

i honestly think your jets are way to big...if you can i'd go down a couple more sizes

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In topic:  Stuck!! Bogging? Loading up on fuell?,  blk85cj7 wrote:

I'm running rich as well. It's been an ongoing problem. The motor will stall so I think my valve is fine. It was actually stalling until I was about a full turn out. The screws are set about the same as yours. Fuel Pump is a Holley rated between 4 -7 psi. I think I'm pretty close on the idle mixture. My existing problem is when I put it under any kind of load it bogs. To the point it's not drivable. It sounds/feels like it's loading up on fuel. Maybe the Squirter or Jets? I shooting a bit blind without a gas analyzer and vacuum gauge.
I'm new to carb tuning so I'll keep messing with it.

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In topic:  Stuck!! Bogging? Loading up on fuell?,  jcsj wrote:

I'm running the same carb and manifold, it's very rich on the idle curcuit, I have about 100 miles on mine , and too many other projects. I turned the idle screws on mine in and I lose rpm and it stalls so the power valve is ok.If you can turn the screws all the way in and it still runs the power valve is bad. I set the idle screws at one and quater turns out . What are you using for a fuel pump? I'm running a regulator at 3-5 pds.I also turned the electric choke to the leanest setting, helped some but not enought. I need to set timeing and reset the valve lash. I'm also going to a motorcraft 2100 two barrel 114 venturie,I don't have the time to mess with the holley at this time.Holley has had some problems with the metal make up of some carbs and inside the float bowels will be all flaked might be worth looking at.Keep me posted and I'll find some time to work on mine and see what we can learn.

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In topic:  Low Beam Headlights/Dimmer Switch,  blk85cj7 wrote:

Bad switch. thanks for the reply.

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In topic:  Stuck!! Bogging? Loading up on fuell?,  blk85cj7 wrote:

Thanks for the link! Is anyone running a Holley 4150 or Truck Avenger on thier Stroker? If so what size jets are you running?

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In topic:  Stuck!! Bogging? Loading up on fuell?,  shawnxj wrote:

here try reading through this

http://holleyrebuilds.com/carburetor_tr ... oting.html

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In topic:  Stuck!! Bogging? Loading up on fuell?,  shawnxj wrote:

you should have 2 fuel meters on the front of the carb try screwing both of them all the way in. if i remember right that'll lean out your fuel or maybe it leans out the fuel at idle...i can't remember it's been 2 decades since i messed with a carburator.

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In topic:  Stuck!! Bogging? Loading up on fuell?,  blk85cj7 wrote:

I am stuck with a stoker motor that runs great at idle and bogs, stumbles and backfires under any kind of load. Here is the set-up and scenario, if anyone can help I will send motor oil in laue of flowers.
4.6 stroker, clifford intake, holley 470 CFM Truck avenger, MSD Offroad box, Coil, and Distributor. Cam is a bit aggressive.
The problem started a few weeks ago as I noticed the engine would stumble under load in third and fourth gear. The stumble and/or miss would last for about 500 rpm's and as I let off the throttle the motor would start to run well again. I took it to a friend who tried to adjust the curve on what was a DUI dizzy. He also adjusted the jets on the carb down a few sizes. I retrospect he got stuck as well. He reccomended I go with and MSD set up. "The motor wasn't burning all of the fuel and couldn't keep up"?? I took his advice bought and installed the MSD set up. Tonight I set the timing up and noticed something seemingly strange. At idle the motor seemed to really like 18 -12 BTDC. Anything less than 12 and it would being to bog. I set it at 12 and took it for a spin. It has never run worse and is now undriveable. As soon as the motor was put under ANY load it stumbles and even backfired on me. I'm a complete rookie but it feels like the motor is loading up on fuel??? In neutral the motor sounds good and revs like a champ. Another problem I had and remains is that when it's cold it poars soot out the tail pipe along with black smoke. It so bad it leaves a huge black mark on the driveway. Once the motor is warm the soot and smoke go away. Running rich??? Tonight this problem seemed to be even worse.
I don't know where to turn from here...any advice?? PLEASE?!?!
Thanks

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In topic:  oil filter adapter,  4.whoa wrote:

Thanks. I'd rather buy 1 then a whole set.

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In topic:  oil filter adapter,  Muad'Dib wrote:

T60 i believe...

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In topic:  oil filter adapter,  4.whoa wrote:

What size torx is used on the oil filter adapter for '95 +? All the ones I've removed before needed a socket or allen wrench.

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In topic:  Adjustable fuel pressure regulator,  4.whoa wrote:

The bottom looks like how you'd plumb a carb, and the top EFI.

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In topic:  Adjustable fuel pressure regulator,  SkylinesSuck wrote:

The top one is how I've always hooked up adjustable FPR's before.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  4.whoa wrote:

I'm running a 68-231-4 now and the .050 duration is about the same, so I thought the longer seat duration would make it quieter. Could it effect the drivability much?
I know the lift is less, but otherwise?

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  SilverXJ wrote:

280/288 seat is a lot of duration. IIRC for cheap, Isky's cam was $90. But they have shitty service.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  4.whoa wrote:

I've been looking at Dino's cam spec page (I have an engine i need to rebuild fairly cheap as well) and i saw an erson cam E720112
It has 280/288 seat duration and 208/214 @.050 which should keep valvetrain quiet i think,.448/.458 lift that should work with stock springs,depending on what you read.and 112 LCA so vacuum should be ok. At least that's how i'm reading it.(please feel free to school me if i'm wrong)
However, I haven't found one yet.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

SilverXJ wrote:
Depends what you want. all low end grunt, get the 68-231-4. Want more top end look for something with more duration. Its more like personal preference.

Actually im thinking also along the lines of cheap as possible... more like not having to replace the springs / retainers / locks.. Just a stock replacement really.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  4.whoa wrote:

FWIW - I had this engine in my 5spd trk 1st now its in with a aw4. With the 5spd it'll make you grinn ear to ear when you get on it and you can go through all kinds of tires with the aw4 it'll still get up n go(and well), but you definitely loose some off the line grunt. I'd go with some more duration with the auto. Just some pennies for thought

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  SilverXJ wrote:

Depends what you want. all low end grunt, get the 68-231-4. Want more top end look for something with more duration. Its more like personal preference.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

any other suggestions?

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  4.whoa wrote:

I'm running a 68-231-4. I don't have a stroker yet and I built it long before I found this site its .060 over. Cam is 4* adv. Don't know the springs (shop took care of that). Block was decked.030 and head .040 (supposed to be anyway) the only "porting" I did was to take the edge off the block where the chamber overhangs. It pulls real good. With cruise on 70-74 it gets about 20 mpg with a 3" lift and 275-60-15 tires. ONLY thing I don't like is the noisy valvetrain.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Anyone got anything about the stock cam replacement?

Would a Comp 68-231-4 be good for a rebuild, or something more like the Mopar Performance P4529228ab?

Or even a sealed power CS809?

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In topic:  Stroker Installation Tips?,  lafrad wrote:

Lol, sounds like there was some "experiance" to be had... HEHE.

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In topic:  Quench dealing with 4.0 head on 258,  amcinstaller wrote:

my 258 in the spirit wasnt that picky. the previous owner actually ran it with no vaccuum advance and it ran fine. not too much power, but no pinging. ran regular just fine. also worth noting, i ran a size taller tire on it (in an attempt to fill the rear wheel well) and it was an auto. my borg warner 4 spd had more go, but that car also had the advance connected. lots of people complain about the lack of power with the autos in those cars i guess is what im gettin at.

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In topic:  Stroker Installation Tips?,  amcinstaller wrote:

yuppiexj wrote:
Disconnect the ground strap.
That frigging thing is strong enough to lift the entire jeep off the jackstands and have it swing around under the engine hoist.

thats awesome

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In topic:  Stroker Installation Tips?,  yuppiexj wrote:

Disconnect the ground strap.
That frigging thing is strong enough to lift the entire jeep off the jackstands and have it swing around under the engine hoist.

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In topic:  Quench dealing with 4.0 head on 258,  ev700401 wrote:

So you are saying I'm in the situation, where I'm so far away from where ideal would be that getting further away will actually be better. .051" is the head gasket I was going to use, not sure if a thicker one is out there.

I've been running some figures and CR figures to be in the 7.75-8.5 range depending on a couple variables. Pretty low, didn't know if a problem would develop on this.

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In topic:  Quench dealing with 4.0 head on 258,  IH 392 wrote:

You'll likely get minimal detonation, AMC never did get the quench right on the 258's!?????, this is a situation where I would use the thickest head gasket I could find to open it up some more, every 258 Ive built ran right on the edge of detonation.

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In topic:  Stroker Installation Tips?,  SilverXJ wrote:

I've never pulled the engine with the transmission connected. Just the engine itself. The top bolts on the transmission are a bitch. After I get the accessories out of the way (fan, power steering pump, AC compressor radiator, etc), I connect the hoist. Pretty much everything that needs do be removed aside from the top transmission bolts, side transmission bolts, and engine cushion bolts have been removed at that point. I then unbolt the engine cushion to body side bracket. Then I lift the engine just enough to take the weight off the cushions. Then the through bolts can be removed and the cushions can be pulled. Then I let the engine side brackets rest on the frame side brackets. That gives me enough room to get to the top transmission bolts. I then lift up the engine as far as it will go, place a jack stand under it withe a piece of wood under the transmission pan, then lower the engine until the transmission is resting on the piece of wood. At that point I remove the two side transmission bolts and the engine is free. Watch out for the transmission dipstick, flex plate to bellhousing and wiring as you lift the engine out. I use a few different extensions and a ball style swivel joint to get to the top transmission bolts. You will need the correct size e-torx socket for the stock bolts though. I want to say its a 12, but not sure.

Using that method I haven't removed any of the front of the Jeep. The AC system has never been opened( compressor rests where the battery use to sit) nor the power steering (pump sits where the air box was. The only fluid lines that have been disconnected are the transmission to radiator and the engine cooling hoses.

When the engine is removed the exhaust and intake manifold is still attached, as is the harmonic balancer.

Take those top two transmission bolts (they are e-torx) and get some grade 8 replacement hex bolts to replace them.

Using this method I can have an engine out in about 4 hours from start to finish.

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In topic:  Quench dealing with 4.0 head on 258,  ev700401 wrote:

Great site. Not doing a stroker, but alot of info and discussion on here is very useful for my project as well. Looking for some feedback, I'm not too much on engine building really.

Have a 1974 258 with a deck clearance of .110" according to factory service manual. My piston is full dish, no raised flat spot like newer 258 pistons, not a "D" shape. So I'm wondering is this going to present me some problems when used with the 4.0L head?

I read in the FAQ: "If you have .100" of quench (piston to head clearance) there is little to no affect"

I understand I will effectively have no quench on this build (.110 + head gasket .051 = .161"), but wondered what I might get in terms of hot spots and detonation. Or as long as I keep compression ratio down (which it will be) is this situation a nonissue for me or is there something I should be thinking about?

Many thanks.

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In topic:  4.0 Flex Plate to th400,  ev700401 wrote:

On my 4.0L, I used a 258 flexplate on the 400 and then relocated the CPS to the balancer. The 400 eats alot of power, not sure I would have built the Jeep that way if I did it over again. I know this is an old thread, just wanted to pass that info along.

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In topic:  fuel pump shuts off,  stuckys101 wrote:

i feel stupid now

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In topic:  Stroker Installation Tips?,  92tank wrote:

I WAS GONNA PULL IT ALL OUT AT ONCE TO, BUT AFTER GETTING STARTED IT TURNED OUT TO BE EASYER NOT TO. AS LONG AS YOU HAVE THE FRONT END OFF THE TOP BOLTS ARENT THAT HARD, JUST USE A WRENCH AND NOT A RACHET. OH YEAH I ALSO TOOK THE MANIFOLDS OFF BEFORE I PULLED THE MOTOR.

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In topic:  fuel pump shuts off,  4.whoa wrote:

iirc is - If I Remember Correctly. he was talking about the reason for the stock resistor.

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In topic:  Stroker Installation Tips?,  4.whoa wrote:

I did it all connected like that.If you have it lifted, raise the rear of the truck and/or put smaller front tires on it to help lift the t-case over the bumper. My hoist was maxed out.

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In topic:  Stroker Installation Tips?,  Bodo wrote:

I think the plan is to pull the tranny/xfer case along with the engine. I've heard horror stories about getting the top transmission bolts off on the XJ. Every plan is soft till the decision is made though

Got the camera ready and I'll have the laptop with my FSM loaded along with the fabulous inter-webs.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Any recommendations on a stock replacement cam?? Or know of one that is very good shape??

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In topic:  Adjustable fuel pressure regulator,  hvacman wrote:

Did some more research to my own question.

Please look at these two diagrams and let me know which one is the correct way to hook up the regulator.



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In topic:  Stroker Installation Tips?,  92tank wrote:

when i did my engine swap i pulled the grill and rad. so i had a nice straight shot. and so i didnt have to crawl over it all. the only electical plugs that are the same are the injectors and as long as you dont mix them up you will be fine . one more thing is make sure you put a jack under the trans other than that have fun and think of how much fun it will be driving it with the stroker


good luck

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In topic:  Adjustable fuel pressure regulator,  hvacman wrote:

This may be a dumb question, but, how do I install one?

I have a fuel rail WITHOUT the return. Here is my setup.

Two lines running from the tank to the front.
One is the supply line
One is a return line

The regulator has 1 inlet and a return.

Where do I hook the regulator up?

Supply line to the inlet?
Return line to .....what?
What hooks to the fuel rail?

Does anyone have any pictures?

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In topic:  fuel pump shuts off,  stuckys101 wrote:

Not to hi jack your thread or anything but I had the same problem, word for word. So I ran a wire from the fuse box to a toggle switch then to the fuel pump. Its only till I get my dana 60 and 14 bolt built and finish rebuilding a motor and trans, but yuppie said he put an IIRC on it to quiet it down. What is that and how do I do it because I hate hearing the sound of my fuel pump running all the time. Thanks.

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  Muad'Dib wrote:

Ive had to take a break from it all before i got too stressed. I even got sick for a few days with a sinus infection.

The first thing im going to do is budget out how much a stroker is going to cost me compared to just doing a rebuild. Then ill figure out what path im going to take. Either way the engine will be pulled and stripped.

I personally think two things are going on. The wrong size rod bearings were installed causing little to no oil pressure, and the cam is bad making a ton of top end noise.

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In topic:  Stroker Installation Tips?,  amcinstaller wrote:

get a digital camera, and a HUGE card. then label EVERYTHING. lastly, take your time and enjoy it, youre not a flat rate worker

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In topic:  Stroker Installation Tips?,  Bodo wrote:

Howdy gang

The motor is finally done! I will be installing it next week over a 3 day period.

I've never attempted an engine swap before. Any hints or tricks for a newbie?

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In topic:  cheap rebuild options??,  4.whoa wrote:

Have you made any headway?

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